[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s great, I wish I had a plot of ground like that to go at. I could then stretch both my legs and those of the tractor. As it is I’ll continue to sit at the computer and the tractors in the garage. ☹️

My only observation on the potatoes is that, in my experience, you will need to get the potatoes in ASAP – in order to get a crop from them.

[The RHS recommends planting:
First earlies around late March
Second earlies from early to mid-April
Main crops from mid- to late April]

[vhgmcbuddy]

It does look like some pictures of nickerson turfmaster on Google.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Are horwool triplex and nickerson turfmaster the same?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Cheers.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Is there any way to tell how old it is?
Thanks.

[vhgmcbuddy]

If it’s 1/2” reach, Champion L10/L86. NGK B6HS

[vhgmcbuddy]

That basic design started life as a Horwool and became a Nickerson when Horwool sold out.
I’ve still got a Horwool pedestrian scarifier.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes sorry new to this it should be attached.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Were we supposed to see an image?

[vhgmcbuddy]

What engine?

[vhgmcbuddy]

May not be a disaster. Seen more than a few cracked blocks repaired with JB weld or even body filler.Just needs to keep the oil in. If “the base of the bore” is below the area wiped by the rings you may well get away with it. It’s amazing what one can get away with when needs must and there’s little to loose. You may get away with a used Conrad and a couple of gaskets.Whisper it quietly but I’ve build up a sweet running engine from the remains of two or three wreckers on more than one occasion.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you guys. But disaster! Removed all bits satisfactorily and cleaned everything. Then spotted a crack and base of bore scored. Will need a new block so guess that is it.I will consult B and S but guess it will be too expensive even if bits available. Thanks for all your help. I will eventually let you know how I get on. Maurice.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

If you pull out the metal retainer to the left ? Of the worm wheel you can slide the whole auxiliary pto shaft far enough to access the hex head without driving out the roll pin. If you do need to free the gear, you can with care rotate the crank to align the gear to a position where there is sufficient clearance for the pin to be driven clear of the shaft but still retained in the gear.
Has your Harrier got a dog clutch on the aux pto shaft to engage the drive? A common problem with well used dog clutch Harriers is excessive end float on the shaft making proper clutch adjustment tricky and leading to worn dogs. If so, worth dealing with at this stage as at the last time of checking one or both halves of the dog clutch were unavailable. I developed a cunning wheeze for dealing with excessive apto end float without having to remove the engine sump.
If you have the Power Trac wrap spring clutch, the same applies.
When it comes to reassembly time you will see that Briggs list different thicknesses of gasket to control the crankshaft end float at the very least you must use the thickest one,30thou . That’s usually all that is needed to give sufficient clearance but should there be way too much there is / was a shim available.
Don’t worry about the cam timing , both the cam and crank gears are marked.
Whoops, Just seen on one of your images that you do appear to have a dog clutch.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy, I have found another bolt but it is underneath the brass cog. I guess I will need to push out what looks like a roll pin in order to slide the cog off the shaft. Now I start to worry about getting the valve timing correct.( Assuming I can get another con rod.) This is all new to me but it can’t be worse than restoring a car.( see IH8MUD forum — bj42 found in a derelict barn )

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