[vhgmcbuddy]

I dont mind short journeys in the Landrover, I suppose its just a lot of “extra” things to do, compared with a car, Like knowing the stopping distance is totally different, and of course , being Paralysed from the waist down after sitting on those squab seats for an hour…. I know I know… I am turning into a Poofter. Odly, my next Big project in the barn is a Series 2A station Wagon LWB 12 seater with a 6 cylinder engine, … I dont know either!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Neil,

Sorry to be a pain, but is the orientation of the emulsion tube critical? I.e. Should the slot be in line with airflow?

Regards

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Neil,

This tube has not been out. However I have tried to remove it. Should it simple unscrew? The slot is OK, but perhaps the thread is damaged. As it wont come out.

I will investigate this first. 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ok. I am now suspecting this is a fueling issue.

Can someone advise how I remove and check the emulsion tube from the Amal 356? I’ve changed the jets, but seem to get a small flood of petrol coming out the carb inlet.. Suspect blocked emulsion tube..

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you Charlie, Just what i needed, I have a small 4 wheel trailer that is easier for my series one Landrover to pull, and it is rated at 500 KG so with plough and cultivator etc still within the limit, Since the Mercedes burst into flames when I tried to tow the other trailer, I now have to rely on the Landrover for towing…. It,s going to be a Long journey!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Neil,

Great. I will investigate.

In the meantime, I think I’ve had a bit of a lightbulb moment…!

Looking at some literature for the MG5, I think my ‘assumption’ of TDC may have been inaccurate.

I had a screwdriver down the plug hole and was claiming TDC when the screwdriver was at its upmost.. It has just occured to me, that what I thought was the piston may have indeed been the valve, hopefully meaning the timing chain is OK..?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi,

The plug is sparking every time the magneto clicks. And every time 20deg before TDC. Is it possible that I have reassembled the magneto incorrectly? At TDC the teeth on the magneto dog where in the horizontal position.

What is the best procedure to taking the engine apart and checking that the timing chain hasn’t slipped?

This could be interesting…!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Still no luck getting it running. 🙁

I have a spark at the plug and fairly certain the fuel situation is OK.

I have noticed that the impulse is clicking between 20deg and 3deg before TDC. No matter how I adjust the magneto it would seem when turning over it clicks at 20deg BTDC. Am I doing something wrong? As the book states it should click at TDC for starting…

Perhaps the chain has slipped?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Chris, thanks that’s worked a treat, I’m needing to sharpen the knives and set the cutter bar pads. Next problem is the grub screws in the bar pads are pretty gubbed and covered in paint. It’s all a learning curve though I do know a bit cos we had a bamford finger bar reaper for cutting hay Nut that was in another life ☺️

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Neil,

Well, I remove the magneto from the engine yesterday. Carefully marking it’s position before removing. The pulse spring seemed to have resonable force and would spring back when the pawl was engaged. It looked reasonably clean, but I cleaned it out and applied a light smearing of 3 in 1 oil just to be sure.

I’ve refitted it – hopefully not 180 degrees out if that is possible?

However still no joy getting her to fire up.

Back to the carb and I decided to completely remove and fit the new pilot jet. (I’d already fitted the new main jet on Friday).

I enclose a picture of the damage/wear that I have discovered around the pilot jet area. I have cleaned this off and applied some araldite in the hope of making good.

Removing the old pilot jet was quite tricky, and it was obviously in a bad/gummy state.

I am however a little confused why the there woule be a screw threading into the end of the pilot tube blocking it off? (Threaded into the damaged part)

Would this pilot jet prevent starting? Is this not the equivilent of the idle jet on a modern carb?

Cheers

James

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Bob,

On the rear of the gearbox behind the engine is a dombed cap. Prize it off. There will be a nut which just wind in till it stops.

That ajusts the slip clutch.

Make sure your cutter bar pads are not rubbing the knife too hard

Hope that solves your problem

Chris

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Neil,

Thanks. Hopefully this is the route of the problem. Is this an easy job? Can I clean the required parts without fully stripping the magneto?

[vhgmcbuddy]

HT lead us reconnected after step C.

Should the magneto click after every rotation?

James

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi all,

I’ve hit a bit of a stumbling block with the Ransomes recently. Mainly resolving around getting it to start. 🙁

I did manage to get it running for the first time last weekend, but even then it wasn’t a simple operation to get it started. It would take 10-20 goes to get the thing to almost start before actually starting.

At that time the carb bowl/carb did not have a gaske, and the float needle wasn’t cutting off the fuel, so it was over-fueling some what.

I have since ordered the correct gasket and float needle from Neil and seem to have cured this problem.I fitted these yesterday. I did also order a new Main Jet and Pilot Jet from Neil.

Looking at the parts diagram for my carb. Part No: B120 is the mainjet, and 124/026 is the Pilot Jet. I went to install these yesterday, but my Mainjet appears to only be a brass nut? I removed the Pilot Jet plug screw, but did not actually change the pilot jet (I’ll need to take the carb off the vehicle for that). The Main Jet from Nel was too small dia to thread into what appears to be the Main Jet hole that my nut came from, but did indeed fit into where the Pilot Jet Plug screw came from..

Fast forward a little ALOT of attempted starts it eventually fires up. I run it for a 5 minutes or so before turning it off. And now I can’t seem to start it again.

Bearing in mind it was never a good starter I am now looking to find out exactly what is wrong, and hence I have a few questions.

What I’ve done to the MG5

A) Brand new correct spec plug fitted. The gap was around 0.015-0.020″ when new. Upon removing the plug it was extremely black! I’ve consulted the manual and opend the plug up to 0.030-0.035. Now when attempting to start it seems to try and backfire.

B) New float needle & gasket in carb, plug jet changing as above. Confirmed that the float does float.

C) Overhauled fuel pump and tank. Fuel supply is certainly not a problem!

D) Confirmed the magneto is working. It sparts to the block when you turn the handle. HT lead is also good at both ends. I am reluctant to remove the magneto and check the points since it has actually run OK on a few occasions, if a little rich..!

E) Fresh engine oil change.

Questions

1) Am I starting it using the correct method?

I am doing the following.

a) Disconnect HT lead
b) clock the choke
c) Turn over 3 or 4 times to draw in some petrol
d) Open choke, push throttle partially open.
e) Rotate until I feel compression then pull over hard.

Note: I don’t always hear the special ‘cick’ from the magneto when turning over. Is there a trick to this? Should I be turning it over harder/faster? What exactly is this click and what instigates it?

Personally I believe that I am starting it by chance conditions in the combustion chamber through flooding and repeated attemps, which can’t be right.

2) Is this TVO manifold causing me a problem with a petrol setup?

3) Should I put the spark plug back to 0.020? – Surely this should not prevent me from starting it.

4) How many times/how long does it take others to start their MG5?

I’d be grateful for as much feedback as possible as I intend to take the vehicle to a show next weekend and would like to have it running before hand..

James

[vhgmcbuddy]

James,

I didn’t realise you had the later Amal caeb, the above information I gave may not be relevant!

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