[vhgmcbuddy]

Charlie, I have managed to pay my sub but still wont let me send a private message, will try again later.

Yours,
Jon.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie, thank you for a great response.You are completely correct with the water in main gearbox and I have drained it during initial service but I have used hydro 32 to to flush and have now used the same at the moment, (I have used this oil in my Smart and brown 1024 lathe with excellent results). Do you recommend a thicker oil for the future? I would love to have a owners manual and parts list but on trying to send you a private message I need to pay for the membership which I have tried to do but for some reason there is no way of opening the uk single membership I can pay with paypal if you can advise what I am doing incorrectly.

Thank you,
Jon.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Update on tests:

-With the rear of the machine raise with both wheels clear of the ground, does turning one wheel cause the other one to rotate. Give an outward tug on each wheel – are they firmly located.
No wheels do not rotate when one is turned.
They are located firmly.

Update on drive pulley.
It is only loose when drive pedal on (brake on)
When brake off (in drive mode)it is tight and belt tight which
must be as it should be.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Gear drive, manual select !!!

Update on drive tests:

– is the pulley on the trans-axle going round with it in a gear and engine running – drive mode = YES

– With rear wheels off the ground and in gear do the wheels engage the gearbox when turned ? = NO

Tests to do today:
-When the machine is stationary with the transmission in neutral but with the drive to the transmission engaged, can you see the transmission input pulley going round?
-With the rear of the machine raise with both wheels clear of the ground, does turning one wheel cause the other one to rotate. Give an outward tug on each wheel – are they firmly located.

One thing – as per pic the drive pulley seems to be loose ? (stock pic)
i.e can spin freely in gear or not and is loose ?
Is this right ? perhaps the bolt on the top is loose ? (This will
need me to remove transaxle to get to it)

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello Andrew, do you mean the kind of clutch? I can’t see anything written on it…

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[vhgmcbuddy]

For a start, does it have a hydrostatic or gear drive transmission?
When the machine is stationary with the transmission in neutral but with the drive to the transmission engaged, can you see the transmission input pulley going round?
With the rear of the machine raise with both wheels clear of the ground, does turning one wheel cause the other one to rotate. Give an outward tug on each wheel – are they firmly located.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi There look at the side of the mower,the opposite side to the chain case.You’ll find a cast disc,tell me what it says and I will date it for you.
Kind regards
Andrew
Archivist
The Hall & Duck Trust

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes, you both are right, it’s the tickler plunger. Thank you for both adresses, I’ll surf on their sites.
Behind the mag chain (« Ransomes »), one can read « LSA 125 », I suppose for Sturmey Archer.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The engine is I believe a Sturmey Archer, the “screw” missing from the carb is as Charlie says a tickler plunger to flood the carb, the silencer I have is very similar I will take a picture.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello expeatfarmer, thank you for your prompt reply. I forgot to take pictures of the machine before removing the engine, but I could find pictures of a complete one on the internet (you see the exhaust pipe I am searching for). With regards the carburettor you see on my picture the small screw missing. Many thanks for your help.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Louis
I am currently breaking a 36″ mower fitted with the Sturmey Archer engine there may be some common parts can you post photographs of your machine.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I went out to take my mum some shopping yesterday and saw a field that looked like it had only been ridged up in the last few days. You can bet your life that they wouldn’t have been planted if there wasn’t a viable crop on the horizon, they don’t do anything unless there’s a potential profit so you should be alright although a lot depends on variety and getting plenty of water on them. Commercial crops are are tied either for contract reasons, fitting around other jobs or the weather but hopefully you only have one of these to worry about. Keep us posted with photos.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The early Gems, had no Rotor Clutch Fibre Disc, It was the same principle as the wheels clutch ,Steel on Steel, If on tightening the rotor clutch bolts, you still have the rotor slipping on contact, it is probably oil leaking out of the chain drive case through a faulty oil seal, When I restored my Gem I made the mistake of following the workshop manual for the later mark, and sent off my clutch disk for a nice new Fibre friction disc to be bonded, when fitted, I could not fit the rotor as it was now too long! I had to chisel the fibre friction plate off, after someone explained it was not supposed to have one. If the main engine clutch is not right, you have plenty of allowances to use by tightening or slacken off the travel, all detailed in the workshop manual, which is a “Must”. Best of luck

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello,

Appreciate if anybody can send me the parts list of the F80, besides, looking for a complete shop manual for the F80 as well and F190 if available.
Email: sultannidal@gmail.com

[vhgmcbuddy]

I bought a Gem off an old chap a few years back and have been fighting it on and off ever since… for the first time i have finally got her running and took a trip out of the allotment shed…

The gears are horrendous. I can engage first and reverse, the cutters on or off, but it’s all very hit-and-miss.

The clutch lever does seem to work, of a fashion – but there’s a lot of clunking and jerking and it sounds terrible, so am worried i am causing it damage. The “push down clutch lever to operate reverse” doesn’t really seem to make any difference – just pulling up enables reverse to be engage….

The rotors used to turn and cut, but now stop on contact with ground.

I like to think that the bloke who had “restored it” (covered it in fresh orange paint an inch thick) know what he was doing as he had a load of machines. I really don’t want to be taking things apart… plus, it’s stuck in the middle of my allotment.

Are there some simple, first steps that I ought to be looking at – and if so, in what sequence should i focus…. adjustment of clutch control linkages?

Any hints or tips much appreciated.

Tim

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