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October 11, 2016 at 6:08 pm #22698
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterOctober 10, 2016 at 10:00 pm #22694
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThank you – that certainly answers my question.
October 10, 2016 at 9:35 pm #22693
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks very much for your information merlinkeeper.
October 10, 2016 at 3:01 pm #22690
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks Charlie and Alan, looking forward to another good read !
October 10, 2016 at 2:58 pm #22689
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterA very good show for a first attempt, congratulations to Darren and Gareth, worthy winners both !!
I think we will be doing this show again next year…
October 10, 2016 at 2:09 pm #22687
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterOctober 10, 2016 at 8:34 am #22684
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThat makes sense – Thank you.
Would that be just normal engine oil?October 10, 2016 at 8:32 am #22683
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThankyou Charlie and Darren, however I’d of been happier if our display of Howard’s would of been judged as a whole rather than separate, like the judges originally said to me. I felt both of our gems were of the same standard.
October 9, 2016 at 11:19 pm #22633
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThank you for the suggestions – I will try them all out and let you know what solves it.
October 5, 2016 at 6:55 pm #22612
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThe crunching noise when moving the first lever to engage drive to one wheel is probably caused by the countershaft inside the transmission housing rotating. This could either be down to the engine idle speed being too high or a problem with the centrifugal clutch causing it not to disengage when the engine is idling, more often than not due to worn out clutch springs. Moving the second lever won’t cause any crunching because the countershaft will no longer be turning, as engaging drive with the first lever you moved will have stopped it from spinning. The countershaft sticks through the left side of the transmission housing, just in front of the left hand wheel, so is easy enough to see whether it is spinning or not when the engine is idling. There are some photo’s of the transmission and clutch in my Trusty in the Projects section of this forum, although the clutch on your Trusty will be slightly different, it works in the same way.
October 5, 2016 at 3:46 pm #22610
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThank you for the replies – I have ordered one of each product.
October 4, 2016 at 6:05 pm #22604
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI use Castrol Valvemaster additive in my Norton engined Trusty. You only need 1ml of additive per litre of unleaded petrol, so a bottle will last a very long time.
October 3, 2016 at 7:27 am #22600
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterWhich villiers engine, if it’s the two stroke it’s probably either side of 1950. If it’s an ohv it’s probably about 1958-1961ish. If it’s an ohv the date will be stamped somewhere on the flywheel.
September 30, 2016 at 10:07 am #22589
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI shall probably be there about 12, with my gem. Will be nice to see everyone again.
September 29, 2016 at 10:46 pm #22588
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks wrist pin been thinking I will do the oil in bore just a ligth coating of sae30. Hadn’t thought about spraying the carb and exhaust only sealing after expeatfarmer said about mice but don’t suffer pest issues. It’s more the fuel tanks that’s causing issues as I have two on the mg as its tvo. The main one is just going to get brimmed with tvo when it gets parked up. And think same with petrol one. Still open on the idea of this fancy fuel as I’ve normally just used ultimate unleaded and been fine when I get back in spring , some times drain it and mix 50-50 with new and use on Morden machines.
For damp i luckily have a 40ft ex fridge box that’s fully insulated and my workshop isn’t to bad just the little shed suffers. I fine the hessian sacks work really well I’ve used for about five years. They keep dust and muck off and act as insulation layer and and damp then do get they keep rather than it getting to the machine. Then let them air in summer.
Am interested in what over people’s reasons to long term storage are, just would of thought winter would be a hive of activity in all the sheds
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