[vhgmcbuddy]

hi charlie, mainly due to it being an entry fee event , makes it a bit awkward for getting people in and machines moving in public etc. unfortunately the person who i was dealing with is now on maternity leave and her replacement has a completely different approach to how it should be run

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi all.
the kent meet and greet has now been canceled due to a change in requirements on site that are not practical to meet. apologies to anyone wanting to attend

[vhgmcbuddy]

To expeat farmer good idea with the boards but both my sheds have ally floor so shouldn’t be a issue.and pests touch wood I don’t have much trouble I do put rat bait down as everything is covered in hessian sacks. But with 50 farm cats I think am okay ha ha .

Is it worth slacking the tracks off over winter?

And thought I’d be a odd one by by storageing stuff over winter but seems a lot of people do it?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have used a high grade stihl two mix oil in a villers engine on a Howard rotovator and it has never run nice since. It has a small wimp from crank case. So only use sae30 engine in a mix for old two strokes now.the dertegents in Morden two Stoke oil is to harsh for old machines.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Andy,
Forgive my ignorance on older two strokes, but why not? What is or isnt in it? I appreciate modern oils have lots of detergents in them and additives, i wouldnt think of putting a modern multi viscosity oil in the plain bearings on our steam engine, there is something in the oil that leaches the zinc from the bronze and it just crumbles away.
Could you not use straight aspen and add the appropriate oil to it?

[vhgmcbuddy]

We actually use aspen, there, i said it. They supply 2 stroke with synthetic oil at 50:1 and also straight petrol. I get ours from lister-wilder, most good garden machinery suppliers should stock it or could get it. Thinking about it, if you used a small amount of 2 stroke on a 4 stroke engine it will leave a noce bit of oil around the bore, piston, valves etc.

[vhgmcbuddy]

If you ring Keith Beasley at standen engineering in Ely Cambridgeshire he will have them on the shelf.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Not sure if this is relevant or of any use but when we used to lay our saws up for the winter, 2 stroke I know but same principal, with normal “pump petrol” and oil, even v power, optimax, nitro etc the saws would suffer poor starting, poor response, lack of power and just not sound right when we pulled them out again several months later. I’m convinced it was the ethanol in the petrol going off. Now we have changed to an alkrylated petrol, which is basically synthetic fuel with much less nasties like benzene and aromatic hydrocarbons in, they always fire first pull and run on the second. I’m not suggesting running old machines on this (it is about £3 a litre) but maybe draining the tank, putting a splash in, running machine again before storage. Eddie the rep told me it has a shelf life of over two years.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Regardless of how dry the shed is I’d buy a few of the disposable dehumidifier tots you can get for less than a quid and surround the machine. I tried a couple to shut our witch of a landlady up this year, ( she reckons that the mold in the house had nothing what so ever to do with the rotten/ missing fascia and instead was me causing it!). It really is amazing though how much moisture they will suck up. My shed this winter is going to be filled with them.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hopefully it’ll be along side darmic1’s(Darren’s) gem, to show how much the machine changed in only a couple of years.Aparently mine is from only the second batch ever produced,but Darren’s is still a very early example, yet the differences are quite a few.

Here’s a nearly finished photo, I’ll take some better ones soon. Sorry for the poor quality and maybe being upside down, blame the iPad.

The one item I’m still searching for is any advertising or sales sheets prior to series 2 gems. I’ve been looking for over 10 years and still haven’t turned anything up. Can anyone help please?

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[vhgmcbuddy]

This gem is now all but finished if anyone is interested it’ll be at tractor world in a couple of weeks time.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Further missing items were the plates bolted to both sides of the engine fan cowling (Simar 0129). Peter Roat was able to supply dimensions and photo’s of those fitted to his machine, allowing me to make suitable replacements. The rear fuel tank support (Simar 0130) is bolted to the steering column by two M8 x 16 long set screws. The fuel tank is strapped down to the top of the rear support and to the underside of the front engine cowling (Simar 0131). Both fuel tank straps had to be remanufactured as the originals were beyond repair. I placed a thin strip of Neoprene rubber between each strap and the tank. The fuel sediment trap, which also includes the fuel shut off tap, was screwed into the 1/4″ BSP fitting on the underside of the tank (Simar 0132). For the cast air intake elbow which is attached to the underside of the fuel tank, it was Charlie Moore to the rescue again with a replacement (Simar 0133). My machine had at some point been fitted with a different carburettor, which included a choke mechanism. The correct specification Amal 244/544 carburettor now fitted has no choke, this instead being housed inside the air intake elbow (Simar 0134). When the carb was changed, the original intake elbow had been modified by removing the choke butterfly and the cross shaft holes threaded so they could be blanked off by screwing in bolts. The elbow is attached to the tank via a collar (Simar 0135), which also required repairing as one of the M6 studs was broken.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for confirming my fears Peter. At least it isn’t too difficult a job to swap them around!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Good to hear the new springs are performing well Peter.

While working on the 56 this weekend, I suspect that I may have fitted the Red pawls on the wheel hubs the wrong way around. If you look at picture Simar 0108 or Simar 0115, which show the left hand hub, the pawls will engage drive when in reverse and freewheel when in forward gear. Can any SIMAR owners confirm that it should be the other way around? I originally fitted them as shown on page 14 of the operators manual, but I assumed that Figure 11 showed the LH hub, but have now had that sinking feeling that it could actually show the RH hub!!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Alan
The themed section in run by Jim and Mel Wakefield

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