[trusty220]

Well done for knowing the only legitimate reason for flying it upside down! At least I know there are some more people out there that think like me.

[trusty220]

Your best bet is to have a look on that well known auction site, but take care- just because somebody is asking a certain price doesn’t mean that is what it is worth, some people have inflated ideas.

[trusty220]

I’ve got it’s little brother in my toolbox, Angus! I bought mine for doing the brake pipes on the GT6 and it’s 1/2″ AF- yours is considerably bigger so it’s probably intended for use on hydraulic pipes. A good buy for 50p though!

[trusty220]

Just putting my writing head on, Alan.

[trusty220]

That’s another one saved, Angus. These mowers from the Fifties and Sixties are becoming very collectable these days. Lovely restoration by the way.

[trusty220]

It would be useful if you could take a picture of the first part of the model number.

[trusty220]

Is there any chance of a photograph of the output crankshaft?

I don’t have access to the main Briggs and Stratton parts listing, but my guess is that it was running something like a water pump which could be started and stopped automatically by a float switch. Having a 110V starter motor would rule it out of any mobile machinery and would steer us more in the direction of a fixed piece of plant with ready access to an industrial power supply.

Unless, of course, somebody out there knows different…..!

[trusty220]

I would agree with you, Andy. Ransomes don’t make belts and never have done, so they rely on specialist manufacturers to supply them. In this case, though, the belts are such an odd size that it is difficult to find somebody that still makes them.

[trusty220]

It’s good to know that there’s a cheap alternative out there; the originals are well into three figures which puts them out of reach of the amateur restorer.

[trusty220]

If it has a JAP 5 engine the usual carburettor was a Zenith 24T-2. This was also fitted to the petrol versions of the grey Ferguson T-20 series of tractors so any of the professional tractor parts suppliers should be able to supply a new carb. Try Agriline, they are usually pretty good.

You will need to change the jets over though- unless somebody’s been heavy handed with your existing jets you should be able to remove them and put them in the new carburettor body; otherwise Agriline do a relatively inexpensive repair kit for the 24T-2.

[trusty220]

Both belts should be the same cross-section and it sounds like the Variator Pulley>Gearbox Pulley belt is still original, so at least you’ve got some dimensions.

By the way- your part number is incorrect; it should read MBA4471 for the engine drive and MBA4472 for the gearbox drive belt. The parts listing doesn’t give dimensions, just the description which reads, “Vee Belt- Engine Drive”.

Best of luck.

[trusty220]

I’ll go along with your advice, Angus. When Ransomes had stock of those belts they were never cheap, so if the non-genuine ones are the same dimensions then I’d give them a try.

[trusty220]

Why not start a register for Rollo and I’ll put it on the listings in the “Survivors” section?

[trusty220]

The original oil would have been SAE 30, a commonly used non-detergent oil that you can still get from most good car accessory shops.

[trusty220]

Well done, Mr. Haggle, another good read! I think Charlie’s forgiven me for the first caption on the cover, but just in case I’m keeping my head down for a bit!

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