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The peening hammer is used on the blade only when the sharpening has worked back on the width of the blade, at that point the blade gets thicker, by penning all you are doing is thinning the blade again.
Just remember sharpening a scythe blade is not like sharpening a knife blade, its putting a sharp edge which under close looking is a saw edge, and just remember its only the first 3 inches that cuts, the curve and the length of the blade is for removing the cut grass away from the next cut.

I for one use scythes every day in my working life

[hdtrust]

Can you load a picture of your Nickerson please. The early ones were notorious at dropping nuts and bolts all over the grass areas!

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There were two main dealers near to Kent, Earnest Does in Essex, who are still in buisness but trade under different names and Gibbs of Bedfont who went bust years ago when Textron purchased Ransomes

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Hi
Nice machine, the Sisis rotorake came with different selectors, you are showing the verticutter, not just a scarifier, when you set this selection correctly, it will scarify but also slice the roots of the grass allowing the grass sward to re germinate without seeding.
Other selectors include a scarifier and also a brush which can be used on hard weather surfaces as well. There should be also a collecting box which sits on the front like with a cylinder mower.

The Rotorake was introduced in the late 1970’s, and is still made today but with improvements, looking at yours it appears to be mid 1980’s. I have a 1990’s version with a MAG engine, which I use frequently in my buisness, and yes they hold their money, in a word to get a good second hand one, is like looking for rocking horse ******
Just one word of warning, dont use in dry spells and dont over set the selectors as if there are slight lumps in the surface of your lawn, it will grind them out!

[hdtrust]

Hi Geoff now you have cut your teeth on the Allett perhaps you’d like to have a go on this one!

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Hi John
The Sheffield term for the rear of your van is called a jungle! Especially travelling around the back lanes of Dorset.
All the best Big Ears

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Well Charlie
I can own up to breaking a shaft more than once on my old Stanley stainless steel spade, the fault was actually the shaft made from a plastic intrusion moulding, plus the fact of digging in coal measure soils of Sheffield (all heavy clay)
The remedy I have now is an old Elwell spade, which when I got it came from an auction at Shaftsbury. I took one look at it, has it has steel grips for digging (saves the soul on your boots when digging) First thing I did was get a file and sharpened the working end, you only need to do that once, then it will always stay sharp. The only other thing needed to keep the spade in tip top condition is not to allow anyone else near it!
When I first was shown how to dig in my apprenticeship days, they also issued me with clogs! Which I still have!
Kind regards
Big Ears

[hdtrust]

There is always another way to go, that is to get a contractor in who knows what he is doing. Get it baled in small bales, then Waite till late winter, when the hay prices go up, then off load your hay to the highest bidder. That way there will be no aching limbs, no blisters on your hands.
But a large limp coursed by the weight of bank notes in your pocket!

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Dear Sir,
I have seen your questions, and seen the answers, some I may add quite enlightened.
I have a few questions for you, firstly you say you have 10 acres to cut, but you dont have a large budget, most small parcels of land now a days make £10,000 an acre, and with your 10 acres you should still be large enough to get your single farm payment.

Its always good to reminisce about what vintage machines can do, I am old enough to have worked with Allen scythes commercially, in their day they were good, but what you are asking for is in short nothing but trouble, you need a more modern machine.

This is the way I would go, and the reasons
Firstly and most importantly hay is a crop, you have to know the best time to harvest, from cutting to collecting you have to get it right, or you will end up with a crop that no one wants. If baling always bale small bales they make the best price.
As Wristpin suggests you need the two wheel BCS 740 tractor, this will have all the implements you require, to include a mini baler. They are not cheap a whole set up could knock you back £12,000, if you cannot afford the budget, then sell an acre of land!
I run a fleet of 3 BCS 740’s and swear by them, I also crop hay commercially
Hope this helps

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Hi wristpin, yes cross purposes, The oil in the tank supplied the engine, Cup boxes were on the inside sides of the mower feeding the rear rollers

The width of the cutting cylinders, the largest width was 48 inches which went out of production before the 1880s,42 inches is the largest width used today, but more common to find 36 inches

[hdtrust]

Good afternoon Angus, yes mowers before your time! The machine above had a total loss system, the oil went via a pipe to a cup box feeding the bearings on the rear roller.
The reasons for changing the width of the cutting cylinders, was because of flex from the cylinders to the bottom blade. Atco’s construction was always lighter, then their counterparts eg Ransomes.
Infact I’ve often heard in the trade that Atco after the war could never produce a professional machine, but I will leave that one for others to argue the toss!
Regards
Andrew

[hdtrust]

Hi
What you have there is a pre war Atco, your model was made from 1939, there was three sizes in the range, 24 inch, 30 inch and 36 inch machines, the range was actually called the Atco Heavyweight range
They were designed for extensive areas of grass on large estates, cricket, football pitches and playing fields. Yours had the capability of cutting up to 1 acre per hour.
The engine is an Atco-Jap 4 stroke 600 cc.Which had a mechanical oil pump, Amal carb and a Wico magneto, and a fan cowl cooling system. The rear roller is split into three, which has a full differential drive for easy turning.
The cutting cylinder should be six bladed, and there is a cutter release which enables the machine to run without the cutting cylinder engaging so the machine can be used to roll only.
The front rollers should be in 5 sections made of cast iron, very heavy. As can be seen in the picture which is from the Atco 1939 brochure, the grass box sits within a frame so that when emptying, it tips forward.
The finish on this range of machines included chromium plating on the exhaust pipe, handles and controls.
Hope this helps

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Hi Collin
Just been looking at the Gamage’s roller, OK Gamage’s sold this roller with their name on it, like a lot of Ironmongers did, Allan is quite right T Greens of Leeds did make many garden rollers under their own name and others, the termination for this type of implement selling is and was called catalogue machines.
However in this case, Green’s did not make rollers for Gamage. Infact there was a society which evolved within all the different manufacturers of garden rollers.
It was Qualcast of Derby who made the Gamage roller, now with the history laid to one side, let me try and sort your problem out!
The reason why your roller is ceased, at some point it has been left outside in the elements, where water has got into the journals where the axle is, now what you cannot see from looking at it at the moment is what is inside. Your roller has two castings that you can see, the idea is as you turn a corner, they should independently rotate different ways on that axle, where they will be ceased is in the middle, as well as slightly on each end.
What you do. First remove the handle from the two bolts on either side. Then you need to make a cradle on the ground of say two concrete blocks of at least 6 inches high, place a timber plank on top (to cushion) then place the roller on its side on top so the axle is clear of the ground.
Now the axle on the top can be worked on, there are many ways to do this, but to help free the journal pour diesel around the axle and leave for a couple of days, What I have done in the past is to heat up the side axle bracket with oxygen and propane, there is a bolt which fixes it to the axle which needs removing, with heat that then can be removed, which will open up your way to the journal, if you need to add pressure or shock by using a hammer only do it by hitting the axle and only then with a piece of wood between your hammer and the axle. do not hit the casting! A couple of days should free it, then once you get the axle out keep it well greased on replacing it. – best of luck.
Regards
Andrew

[hdtrust]

If my suspicions are correct you are known as Moorcroftman and the grass box you are having problems with are for a Ransomes Ajax!
Please be aware metal sheeting which this box is made from can age harden, so where possible heat should be applied first, this can be with a simple blow torch or if your workshop is better equipped a oxy-acetylene kit with a rosebud torch. When warmed you can use the round end of a ball pain hammer, and place the box on anything hard, as long as its the same shape as your finished box. OR use a panel beaters maul behind. Hitting it can stretch the metal so be careful, if a crack appears, its best to braze the area, as welding could do more damage if heavy handed by burning a hole. If however you find it too difficult, then look for a company that does ducting work, ask them nicely or offer them a drink!
After writing this I could do with a drink as well!!!
Kind regards
Andrew

[hdtrust]

Yes it appears you are struggling, then lets try another way, which mower did your grass box come from? What material is it made from where the dents are?
Just trying to help
Regards
Andrew

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