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October 31, 2023 at 7:49 am #41368
davidbliss
ParticipantI don’t like small engines nowadays, what with plastic and catalytic exhausts, Ive had some really bizarre, like a briggs four stroke with a two stroke petrol mix and thought alright just to have oil in the petrol and poked a rod out the side, bore was ok though, just recently had a new Stihl to fix, good spark and wet plug should have gone, shot a cap of petrol down the carb and off it went and stopped, as had this sort of thing before so tipped the fuel out and refuelled with my mix, took a few caps of petrol to kick off but away with masses of smoke with a very hot exhaust, cats do not like a high oil mix and this chainsaw had been filled with white diesel, I should have binned this on the spot as a few weeks later it came back, absolutely no compression so took the top off to find no air filter, they had seen me tip petrol in to start it so somehow lost the air filter.
October 28, 2023 at 9:44 pm #41364davidbliss
ParticipantJust a thought, carb to engine gasket, some have a hole in to allow crack case pressure to work the carb diaphragm, can be fitted up the wrong way.
June 24, 2023 at 10:02 pm #40934davidbliss
ParticipantMost have a main jet that the faster its run more it sucks fuel through, compensating is like a tank with a leak in it and runs into a bowl no matter how much fuel is sucked the bowl will only give whats running into it and no more, then there is a slow running jet with a adjustable air bypass to give ideal idling characteristics, this carb comes fixed with no adjustment, the old one is adjustable, it seems to me the compensating is to large and main is small giving a over rich at low speed and weak at full speed causing the exhaust to get very hot.
June 19, 2023 at 10:11 pm #40925davidbliss
ParticipantGot this back from the supplier, If I read this right, they say the later for high altitude makes it run richer, well higher you go theres less air so need a smaller jet to run weaker,and this engine runs weak at hight speed 3600 rpm and rich at idle to half throttle. so main jets would be of no use.
Honda engine parts lists usually give you three different jets so you can finely adjust the fuel amount – Briggs only offer one standard plus one high altitude jet – the latter making it run richer. So the only thing I can suggest is maybe trying the 16hp jet:
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June 12, 2023 at 10:12 pm #40898davidbliss
ParticipantAndy
Was going to leave it till winter but is so annoying it starts rich without choke and can snatch the throttle open and it instantly picks up without hesitation, whereas the other engine will just stop and once its been run a short while is fine, this morning I started it and seamed worse for a time so took the top off and had a good look and the two visible jets have slots in for a screwdriver so they are removable. I will try the agent again and se if Briggs suggest a smaller slow running jet or bigger air bypass, could only see these two jets, however can see plugged porting, I have had carbs before plugged like that but the plugs could be removed to adjust.June 4, 2023 at 10:45 pm #40886davidbliss
ParticipantI did try a bit of choke and it does stop the hunting, I would rather it was running weak at the lower rev range as it would keep the temperature up but at the moment running it fast to keep the plug clean it gets very hot, so have to let it idle some while or it sounds like a bird scarer a few seconds after turning it off, then at the lower speed end being rich can’t be doing that left cylinder much good running rich at a nice sensible speed.I did take the top off the carb but never went any further, I was wondering if I could drop the float level but its got a plastic float, if it had a brass one could have bent its arm.I did ask if I could get one of the old carbs like off the japan made engine, but they said the manifolds are different so might not fit and with it being £5 short of £200 wouldn’t be to good if it didn’t fit.
June 3, 2023 at 10:48 pm #40881davidbliss
ParticipantThe only thing that came with the engine was a few sheets with assembly diagrams for conversion to add dual drive shaft drive and oil filter adaptor with torque setting for the set screws, absolutely nothing on service intervals, I think the jets are just pressed in will have a look if I get time or end of season, its a easy carburettor to get the top off but to get the hole unit off the engine has to come out from the frame, them cowl off just to gain access to only one inaccessible screw. Its very noticeable mixture is weak at at high revs as going from forward to reverse the governors snatch full open momentary, where the other engine you cant even tell that you’ve changed direction.
June 2, 2023 at 10:09 pm #40873davidbliss
ParticipantI now have re-engined two Bolens with a V twin, because of the V configuration no need for the UJ joints that fail only need just flexi-joint couplings as it sits down in the frames lower with a strait drive line and won’t knockout the hydro charge pump bearings. First re-engine one I done was 22 years ago and still runs as good today, its a made in Japan Briggs 16HP and seems to run on fumes and was far more economical than the single cylinder Tecumseh it replaced, now the one have just fitted is a US made 18HP and is terribly juice hungry and unless its run flat out soots the left cylinders plug, infact it runs weak flat out at 3600rpm thats uncomfortable at that speed but at a comfortable speed runs very rich, it starts from cold without choke, it has no adjustment for slow running like the old one that idles very slow and silent, so if you can get hold of an early Japan made one that seems better better built, as we had little grass because of the drought last year I never drained the engine oil last year so now will be the third season and is as clean like been done yesterday, now the new one within a few hours had gone very black and already been drained and will see how fast it changes colour, both are running on same E5 petrol so should behave the same. Talking to Briggs is a waist of time just saying contact your suppler,
May 31, 2023 at 7:14 pm #40871davidbliss
ParticipantSorry all parts have gone.
May 21, 2023 at 10:05 pm #40830davidbliss
ParticipantMay 3, 2023 at 4:29 pm #40796davidbliss
ParticipantChocolate is supposed to work on the traps very well but I just use cheese and works, as for spraying things my father was grumbling to one of the spray people in the early 60’s about the blackbirds getting his currants, spray chap said got the very thing, we still never got any blackcurrant jam ether that year, as although there were huge strings of currants hanging like grapes that year untouched, Mother said if the blackbirds won’t eat them nor will we.
May 2, 2023 at 8:08 am #40788davidbliss
ParticipantRodent mischief seem to escalate last year, I put it down to lack of moister as the number of cars and trucks really went up with screen washer rubber pipes eaten and the filler washer bottle tops, were the little devils hooked on screen washer?, so yours was the first petrol primer seen nibbled until took my strimmer down for the first time this year and found the primer on that had been nibbled. I use ordinary mouse traps, but put them in cages made out of scrap weld mech to keep pups noses from spring them, at the farm we used to bait with mouse bait in the grain store and using the old land drain clay pipes also to keep the pets noses out, as was told mouse bait was worse that rat poison. photos section with copper pipe not to clear.
April 12, 2023 at 7:54 am #40715davidbliss
ParticipantI went down the safe route and fitted the relays, as done same conversion before, there were two single cylindered engines, one Tecumseh and Briggs, both with same wiring set up, when the twin cylindered Briggs engine was fitted, it effected both ignition units, I was just curious and like to know why so know what not to connect to cause a expensive mistake, I ran an early car for some years using its original trembler coil, had done just under a thousand miles and decided for reliability to fit a modern made replacement with superior insulation and components?, within only a short while the timing wiper had arced, scored and then sort of filed its way into the original 100 year old rotor nearly destroying it, against the purists made up a electronic switching unit, so the original wiper done the ignition timing and the electronic unit controlled the trembler, without thinking while testing my setup was using a small battery charger instead of a battery, ok on the circuit but put it direct on trembler, what ever it back fed it instantly blew the two diode’s in the charger, on the photo I posted on side of the starter solenoid they fitted a condenser? or something for a reason as never seen any other solenoid with anything. I still have a few trembler coils ideal for testing spark plugs for insolation leaks.
April 11, 2023 at 6:37 am #40705davidbliss
ParticipantAre there any electronically minded wizards out there, as would just like to know why this happened when replacing a single cylinder engine with a twin cylinder that uses two ignition units, as most people know to stop an engine with magneto ignition it is just grounded to earth. Now doing my engine swap all the original wiring for alternator and ignition were the same fittings as same make of engine, I was very pleased with how easy my conversion went, connected every thing up turned the key and engine started and so pleased just how silent and smooth, must fit the deck and give it a go, and went to stop it, funny it kept running but sort of lumpy at idle, opened the throttle and ran rougher than ever, so easy to short the ignition with a screwdriver, there are few wires to trace on the ignition switch, live feed, one to deck clutch switch, one to alternator and one to starter solenoid, no earth so what happens, ignition off and it was connected to the starter solenoid how very odd, so had to fit a relay that was simple, Its a good job I did as friend was trying to find what had gone wrong with his ignition switch and fed live down the stop wire that blew both ignition units, very expensive and had to take the engine out to remove the cowling to gain access, Photos A must fit is a 15 amp fuse unit top left,the by-metal overload is not fail safe, if fuse blows with relay engine stops, as had a voltage control fail dead short, note lifted so air is blown under, new ignition switch centre, relays bottom right.
March 31, 2023 at 7:40 pm #40671davidbliss
Participantlooks like the type used on the early Verdistat? seed drills, even if worn and had let go, welded new ears on, new pins and away, the uj’s on the cars steering column are more durable if theres room to fit them.
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