[davidbliss]

Poulan Sweden? however brain leaked but I have an idea they made chainsaws.

[davidbliss]

I must have had several over the years, they’re a absolute nightmare being temperamental they altered them I reckon hourly so very difficult to find interchangeable parts if not complete, Its a funny feeling working on those that had been in service, one had the barrel bent so was tight to turn over, being all alloy I was surprised it hadn’t broken, mostly little was usable. The one I got going was complete in the end, I only had one usable barrel even this one had shrapnel damage, a sliver had gone through the cover and sliced a 5 mm slot in a fin curling it up like a pigs tail without bending or braking the fin, just unbelievable of how, they did make a twin cylinder version, was told you could weld with one of those.

[davidbliss]

Homelite were used on many generators to chainsaws, Drones and Ken Wallis them in his Auto-Gyro, one that was used during the war used for the emergency generator that sat under wireless operators desk? in the liberator was bit unusual being two stroke with a governed rotary inlet valve, A 8-1 pet-oil mix and a no float carburettor sat on-top of the tank with hand petrol pump to start, then used sort of petrol lift by bubbling air into a pipe that was submerged in the petrol tank. They had to run on 100 octane and with extreme cold had the masked type of plug-ignition, running at low altitude combustion chamber would soon overheat and stop. were very problematic to start if not done properly, one I built up for a museum had been given a Latin name by one of the air crew of scratched into the top of Sh-ttus-Rotus. Most likely all written archive is now lost thats a bit sad and I just remembered it was a Mr Alfred Feaviour got some recognition for development of improvements for the masked plug ignition for the first WW1 aircraft engines, I have them from 1906 it was used and plug savers still sold in the fifties. Photos, the Homelite carb and petrol lift. left to right, 1906 6 HP Rover, Homelite WW 2 gennerator, 1950s plug saver.

• This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by davidbliss.

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[davidbliss]

I suppose going back many years just took it for granted some engines although looked the same but weren’t and a real pain to work on, Aspera made light duty engines without the needle roller big and little end bearings and industrial with, Teles used them on there chainsaws, I had one brought to me that was running a bit under powered and flat as had so many, took the exhaust gauze out and it made a huge difference, as only had a few screws holding the complete exhaust on took it off to look at the exhaust ports, they looked like never been run, turning the engine over to look at the piston that again looked new, just noticed bottom of piston skirt went above bottom of the exhaust ports so was sucking back in exhaust gasses, well have a idea fitted barrel and piston off a scrapper Fly-mow,as had a wight coloured barrel on a blue saw but where did the odd ball piston a barrel come off or balls up of manufacture, the bit interesting was the scrapper piston skirt was longer and shaped to cover the exhaust ports. It didn’t sound much different but seemed to have twice the torque. The JLO engines were just longer lived often neglected but kept going.

[davidbliss]

Unless its worn out every where else its worth repairing, the pump would not be worked by the big end dibber, would have thought off the camshaft, I get really cheesed off with peoples attitude nowadays, many new things you take them out of the packaging use a few times and they’re scrap. Yesterday helping my daughter took my three chain saws all old thirty – forty years old plus but good quality all had been scrapped because of minor carburettor issues and other things fixed and never had one give trouble since, after taking down a large Chestnut tree in November that was easy, I chickened out for one smaller rotten overhanging one with bad knees and having to work part off a ladder got the professionals that soon had it down, like me they had chainsaws from small to large but not as old, talking to them about the chain saws they said had two fairly new saws all dead with issues because of electronics controlling fuelling, WHY as a good quality carb will give years of trouble free use. Today to be green engines seem to be made to use more fuel and fail with electronic issues, for over a year had issues with a new V twin Briggs & Stratton, supposedly emission complaint it drinks petrol, soots one plug and burns the other white and has now gone back twice, Idiots says it runs within Parameters? so I have been having same issues with inability of people to fix a simple thing. Going west got feed back to say with the coils having auto advance electronic advance one coil must have had a fault.

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[davidbliss]

Engine sort of sounds ok apart from the spitting back that’s not quite like an ignition type fault sound causing the spitting, I have had early veteran car engines do something similar as the inlet valves are atmospherically opened and not mechanical, you have to get the valve spring strength fine tuned, to strong and you loose power and to weak they can sort of give a double skip bounce and spit at a particular throttle opening, and a sticking valve or broken valve spring can also causes same symptoms, I did have a valve insert start to drop out on a alloy head, it didn’t spit but just like a intermittent ignition fault causing shorted ignition. I have just had a thought valve timing, if the engine sparks at every top dead centre what I call a lazy spark if the inlet is opening early and exhaust is closing late they can spit back so check valve clearances are correct and are rocking at pistons dead top centre.

[davidbliss]

I have been restoring engines in size from small to large, the older bronze carbs are slightly easier as can heat parts but the die-cast monkey metal ones can be very delicate and more care is needed to get stubborn screws and jets out, many years ago just by accident after washing my hands left a real badly petrol varnish encrusted carburettor in the washing bowl full of hot soapy water, just thinking it might help clean some of the rubbish off the outside. Well it made a tremendous difference most of the brown varnish like deposits left by the petrol had gone whitish and blew away with the air line, even some of the jets just unscrewed easily, so out with a saucepan added a table spoon of washing powder and boiled it for several minutes and left it soaking overnight it was like magic, even managed to clear those very very small cross drillings into the Venturi that some small product carbs have, I had one carburettor brought to me looking like new but wouldn’t idle, I just guessed a long drilling might be blocked, bit of WD 40 or washing up liquid over one end and bit of air in the other and no bubbles and boiling it worked as so easy. Now a word of warning, a DO NOT DO and many people would have said and seen this coming, I would often put a float into hot water to find pin-hole leaks as hot air expands, solder up hole, if it hadn’t got one its important to drill a very small hole and let the float cool and then solder that up and check again. This particular time water must have been near to boiling and just dropped it in and poked it under, I had not checked carefully enough as must have had some bit of petrol in and a minutest hole as instantly it went off pop and took some time teasing it back into shape. Just recently started to rebuild a very early Zenith as jets were so badly damaged had to mill part of them away and make new with screw cut threads as a odd (French?)pitch, one blanking plug had less than three threads. As for good idling I like Zenith and fit those, and can still can get some new, like the 24 T that fitted tractors, Villiers and Petters even the little J.A.P water pumps we still have two in use from the 40s and replaced the old carbs with new 40 odd years ago 13 T CA-2 identical but now I find the petrol pipes are push on. Meetings in London still had parts for the J.A.P and Villiers.

• This reply was modified 1 year, 5 months ago by davidbliss.

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[davidbliss]

I can see why the O rings are not a fix and forget as taps wear in use and wouldn’t accommodate the wear. If the taps are not fully on or off the O ring is allowed to expand and if then pushed fully home it can cut a bits out of the O ring, it all so happens to the modern ball valves if not turned fully on or off and left. Whats wrong with keeping them wet with fuel, I still have original tanks in as new condition and began life and used for over 100 years, found the two-strokes gave less trouble so the oil must have helped and often tap parts could be screwed up to expand the corks, where the later taps were fixed and throw away, I have laid up some for nearly forty years all I did then was do a 50-50 mix of oil and lamp oil paraffin spraying it in and left, if not too late it even seems to keep the die-cast carburettor parts in better order as any jets can be very difficult to remove after sitting dry for many years and the metal corrodes and expands.

[davidbliss]

Carb looks early and tank looks a late type, they spanned many years.

[davidbliss]

That flywheel is die cast, can all ready see one fan blade broken off, mostly the wico flywheel has cast in a centre steel insert, and shafts are normally parallel, mostly there are three threaded holes near the centre for draw bolts and if so just be careful not to screw any set screws through to far to catch the coil, if the alloy crankcase is cracked just weld it if its the flywheel its shot as its monkey metal and a definitely do not put puller legs on the outer rim as can break like glass with age.

[davidbliss]

I have come up against all-sorts of barriers trying to get replacement parts for old machinery. often people are not interested its a one off so not worth there while, however there are ways of finding things just think out of the box, I have seen cam timing belts used turned upside down, they are very strong, I use them for making strap wrenches, allot better use than in there proper use if they break. Four years ago wanted a replacement for the leather always stretching belt on my car, so equipped with the length off to the power transmission supplier, we haven’t got anything that size but can get it made, we’ll get get back to you with a price, that came back at £60 plus vat for a Gates belt. We ran an old 40 plus year old Cat for work and going west could get spares people were very helpful, so did the same for the belt. I wondered what the T Ford used and found they used from a 23inch in ten steps to a 36 inch and I needed a 30+ one and at only £3-00 for the shortest to the longest costing only £5-50 so a bit of a gamble and had two sent this cost I think less than £15 including post for the two Gates belts from the US, getting stuff sent isn’t as easy today as some things have to go through a re-shipper so adds a bit.

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[davidbliss]

I don’t like small engines nowadays, what with plastic and catalytic exhausts, Ive had some really bizarre, like a briggs four stroke with a two stroke petrol mix and thought alright just to have oil in the petrol and poked a rod out the side, bore was ok though, just recently had a new Stihl to fix, good spark and wet plug should have gone, shot a cap of petrol down the carb and off it went and stopped, as had this sort of thing before so tipped the fuel out and refuelled with my mix, took a few caps of petrol to kick off but away with masses of smoke with a very hot exhaust, cats do not like a high oil mix and this chainsaw had been filled with white diesel, I should have binned this on the spot as a few weeks later it came back, absolutely no compression so took the top off to find no air filter, they had seen me tip petrol in to start it so somehow lost the air filter.

[davidbliss]

Just a thought, carb to engine gasket, some have a hole in to allow crack case pressure to work the carb diaphragm, can be fitted up the wrong way.

[davidbliss]

Most have a main jet that the faster its run more it sucks fuel through, compensating is like a tank with a leak in it and runs into a bowl no matter how much fuel is sucked the bowl will only give whats running into it and no more, then there is a slow running jet with a adjustable air bypass to give ideal idling characteristics, this carb comes fixed with no adjustment, the old one is adjustable, it seems to me the compensating is to large and main is small giving a over rich at low speed and weak at full speed causing the exhaust to get very hot.

[davidbliss]

Got this back from the supplier, If I read this right, they say the later for high altitude makes it run richer, well higher you go theres less air so need a smaller jet to run weaker,and this engine runs weak at hight speed 3600 rpm and rich at idle to half throttle. so main jets would be of no use.

Honda engine parts lists usually give you three different jets so you can finely adjust the fuel amount – Briggs only offer one standard plus one high altitude jet – the latter making it run richer. So the only thing I can suggest is maybe trying the 16hp jet:

d

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