[davidbliss]

Just by accident one day found washing powder and boiling it in a saucepan, in several cases the brown sticky mess goes whitish and when dry even small airways can be blown out with an air line. However remove the float before putting into hot water, without thinking one day just dropped a part carb still with the float into boiling water, in only count of two float burst and thru hot water out everywhere as had bit of petrol in. it took some time teasing the distorted float back to work again.

[davidbliss]

I would have though the jet would be larger so would go from rich to weak, Think I have a good 24 T carb minus the adjustable bits as they fitted a teens to twenty’s bronze zenith, if you need spare bit could try and fing it.

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[davidbliss]

Now this is a dyno-starter called a USL, book said something like not to use to assist the motor, bet it would climb up any hill with that. Car was a Overland model 71 from 1913

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[davidbliss]

A DC motor just change over the brush wires, done it on a two brush set ups on generators and quite a few old motors and often found wrong rotation for a engine so saving to have a crossed belt often just changed the rotation. A good way to check rotation is just using a 12v battery, even one of the high DC 400+ voltage motors or generators will motor on the 12volt and the direction it turns is its also the way it generates, and old generators often need a flash of voltage if have had long period of inactivity. My old 1953 generator is direct DC Dyno-Start and if hand started is reluctant to generate, if its really big it can take a few minutes to come on load so never leave a dc generator with a open circuit running not connected to a load. I once thought it odd a generator would motor but no voltage just standing looking at it to then see it show a few volts, in a spit second went sky high even with a load on and not thinking broke the connection there was a good two plus inch ark, voltage metre maxed out at 2,000 volts, luckily the insolation was good and I had my wooly hat on as a bit hair razing to say the least. Biggest reversing DC motor I saw working near me was a 50HP planer motor would brake stop and change direction that a small car would fit on the planers bed, road was closed the other day so done a short cut through the village and recognised one of the last workers I think still alive that used to work there so I stopped a had a good chat.

[davidbliss]

I agree with side valve be careful and have it apart, things to lookout for on some mags is the spark gap protecter, if not removed will break a bit out of the insulation of the pickup ring and the odd carbon earthing brush so just ask but don’t touch any part if you are a bodger with poor tools it will only cost you lots. I would say multi metre is a waist of time, unless someone is paying you to use it. A known good condenser and magnet with clean points and give it a spin and if it works. I will make most things on the mechanical side and get the coils rewound and magnets re-magnetised. However we have lost most of the really good re-wind boys, I had two coils done a few years back, one lasted 300 miles and the other about a thousand, and the magnetiser was nowhere near powerful enough, magnetising is like staining surface of wood with a brush and not done properly will very soon loose its strength, and unbeknown to me they had both coils fail they done first time and never told me they then glued and baked the two fibre boards on that hold the pickup, so to get them done again would need new parts making, there are some supposedly experts out there but idiots in not looking to understand how things are made or put together and work. I am now back on dated 1916 coils that are still going and they have had almost constant use for 108 years. Bit on the Splitdorf, there early system used a engine driven dynamo, dash mounted coil, started on battery and then changed over, so no problems starting the early large car engines like the aircraft engines, the later Splitdorf Dixie is extremely superior away ahead to any mag made back then as the coil units do not rotate and can if need be changed in minutes, with coil and points moving as one unit they can run on full retard ignition all day without doing damage to the coil and still produce a very good spark as they had to back then as most were hand started and the self starters were size of a small car engine today turning very slow, so mag is turning at 50rpm at idle. The down fall of the Splitdorf and many early mags today parts are made of Zinc die-cast so you just have to make parts. someone said they are Poler induction? that’s why they are better, to me parts are turned through 90% but inside work no differently and just make and break the magnetic field.

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[davidbliss]

I wonder is it to get insurance to be on the road, going back fifty years we never taxed our farm tractors but had an exemption to say done less than 15 road miles a year so was easy back then. Had a reply to say Briggs & Stratton took over Murray to try them,it would be a miracle I would have thought but you never know.

[davidbliss]

I have posted info wanted on the US Bolens web site. several people have the Murray lawn tractors, this is the web site if it helps. https://www.mytractorforum.com/forums/bolens-forum.18/
I just read the manufactures plate, Date looks like a 2000 date of manufacture. also found this. https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/my-murray-lawn-garden-tractor-collection.1391448/

• This reply was modified 10 months, 3 weeks ago by davidbliss.
• This reply was modified 10 months, 3 weeks ago by davidbliss.

[davidbliss]

yes like Charlie said heat helps, but be careful if its a large lump of cast iron, heat, soak with paraffin or WD 40 and walk away, do this several times is better than loosing it and trying to do it in one hit. Often people try removing the key with an ordinary chisel, it may work if not tight but does harm to the key head, I use a C shape key remover its inner edge is chamfered so it pulls down into the base of the key head so it can generate a good pull without bending over the key head. With experience and if I feel its going to be very tight I weld on a piece of threaded rod, using a piece of pipe to bridge the shaft so one part is being pushed back while the key is pulled, have made a bridge so can use the key drawer at the same time. Sometimes pulleys can be driven further back onto a shaft again its a be careful and have drilled down the length of a key and works, however keys are normally tough and if you start drilling wrong, you could destroy the lot.Photo note the curved and chamfered shape.

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[davidbliss]

some of the linings to start with are very soft and pliable like thick rubber so not a problem, once fitted you can set the cure by heating in a ordinary oven, the longer its left in the harder the lining gets, so once heated it sets to that time its left in and if taken out early will be soft, and no amount of heat after that will make it hard.

[davidbliss]

That sounds quite a bit, however it depends where you go, just remember with a cone it isn’t a strait strip, but a flattened C so it just lays flat, just try a strait strip of paper to see what happens, of cause you can use brute force. A friend wanted to renew his cone tin-work on his cement mixer barrel, plenty of cardboard scissors and gaffer tape, rapped round then you have a pattern.

• This reply was modified 10 months, 4 weeks ago by davidbliss.

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[davidbliss]

On those it makes no difference as long as they don’t slip. more the same with plate types, grease going very gummy isn’t good, I sort out car cone and plate clutches, some are dry others are wet, however the bit in-between can cause thousands of pounds damage, this is because the know it alls change the material as is very critical, some leather clutches can have a modern material used from a conveyor belt and works dry, where the leather needs treating a few times in 60 plus years. you need a very deep pocket to put things right.
I think it was a 350 that was baptised for a few days, with age grease was dry and add water it had locked up the clutch, I can’t remember, but to preserve the pulley wheel as hadn’t be moved in years, had to remove part of the flange on the splined hub with a die grinder to be able in getting at the cir clip it then was able to be taken apart, once apart removed the remaining flange and used a thick washer I believe the spring sat on it, worked a treat, only part needed was a condenser coil was still ok.

[davidbliss]

We had a BMB plough mate with all the tools with no diff lock but did have independent oil immersed brakes, it was easy to use, that is until reversing even with a plough on would lift me off my feet and the clutch leaver was then out of reach, needs must and fitted a cultivator depth wheel up front, what a difference as used to go everywhere in reverse after that. Its a long while ago now but think it was an Anzani that had no diff but had a independent dog clutch for each wheel, so if needed to turn, disconnect one wheel and it it would turn on a sixpence, all I can remember it was very hard work and a incident when it started in gear out of the shed ploughing as it went and as it came to the concrete path it turned a flag over in that to.

[davidbliss]

Andy
Often people think the two strokes rev higher by the sound, Saab done a 3 cylinder two stroke car in the 60’s and were very torquay and reasonable quick, they ran up to 4,000 rpm at about 90mph, that sounded like 8,000 rpm like ripping canvas but came at a cost of 20 mpg. Auto Union, Mercedes and Wartburg also made almost identical engines.
David

[davidbliss]

Believe pre war there was a twin ported large two stroke Villiers.

David

[davidbliss]

Someone may have at sometime adjusted wrongly the valve clearance by grinding to much off the stem of the valve, this stops the very crude rubbish compression release from working, it consists of small bump on the back of the cam. Seen this done to worn out engines to get better running they do idle better but at a cost to your fingers being stretch if its not done aggressively to get the engine to turn over. and a loose blade causes same issues as there is then little inertia help given from the blade. ignition points opening rather early is another cause, expect its one with short peg that rubs on the crank, measure the clearance under the peg to points arm, just increase the clearance a little and then check the points actually open as it a bit of a juggling act as sometimes with block and peg wear.

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