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Many thanks will try them later when finished the re-engine in the Howard Bolens, its a much more time consuming conversion than swapping out the Tecumseh as completely different tin work, and with different electric drive clutch needing the engine moving forward, so everything else needs altering. had to weld up 11 holes in the very thin tin, that part is very important as stop heat recalculation. the one fitted to the Tecumseh had a one piece with rubber sealing all round, and the one from the 11hp is a two piece poor thing being now made stronger
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No, think its a Eaton, smaller versions are fitted in the Westwood, JD and others. running out of line with the Briggs flat twin and with the heavy prop shaft has knocked out the plain bearings, I was hoping the Eliminator would yield some useful bits but is shot everywhere, just taken the early 11hp out of the Howard Bolens,I rebuilt that 20 something years ago and as hole unit never been neglected going to rebuild that, just odd the 11hp has a 1” 1/8 output shaft flywheel end the new V twin has an 1”inch. When I done the 14hp and fitted the V twin in that that shaft coupling was same as the Tecumseh so a lot easier swap.
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Does any UK firm supply a Hydro seal kit. I have all the nessarsery plain bearings left over from the last one I did. I had forgotten just how many O rings and teflon seals there were in a kit. photo of what had to replace last one I had to do. I tried to building up the damaged squash plate but wasn’t hard enough and the hyro clamps just beaded in, made one out of a heavy duty cultivator leg.
Well not going to repair the Eliminator, my old Howard Bolens is in much better not been got at condition yesterday got a USA made V twin, but takes a day building it up, also the old Howard drive shaft is different to the later 14 HXLin that the copling has a 1” inch drive two piece where as the older one is a single piece and bolts strait onto the flywheel, so will copy the later one. just been given some bits looks like three bering housings and bearings with a good belt tensioning pulley still shiny.
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A why did they do that?,
On that Eliminator model they fitted an electric brake on the hydro pedal so when you have got to a speed you want to keep at flick the switch and lock the pedal, not a safe idea in my thinking, been far better to have a variable position stop just to restrict pedal movement to a given speed and if need be would stop as normal, my daughter at only 6-7 used to mow and use a trailer as the hydro was a fail safe as soon as the pedal was released it stopped dead, with the electric braked pedal locked could just imagine the fish getting a bit of excited with a new weed cutter entering the pond or worse. and pedal sit at a silly angle very flattish adjusters look like never been touched, very odd.Attachments:
A why did they do that?,
On that Eliminator model they fitted an electric brake on the hydro pedal so when you have got to a speed you want to keep at flick the switch and lock the pedal, not a safe idea in my thinking, been far better to have a variable position stop just to restrict pedal movement to a given speed and if need be would stop as normal, my daughter at only 6-7 used to mow and use a trailer as the hydro was a fail safe as soon as the pedal was released it stopped dead, with the electric braked pedal locked could just imagine the fish getting a bit of excited with a new weed cutter entering the pond or worse.Attachments:
Few bits really usable, all deck parts, bearing housings, shafts and two pulleys are scrap,note early and late pacers so been buggered before, supposedly only used three years, well my deck in forty years use and sometimes mowed 5 acres and weekly mowed 1+ acre has needed little attention and still good. I have now modified the last front carriage to be like the early 1980 one that is easy fit and doesn’t rattle like the mark 2-3 types why on earth did they alter them, never had any issues with the first type, now its been run the hydro is started to leak so thats why it was short of oil, overheated and that heavy drive shaft got lots of runout. several photos.
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few photos, straitened the lift rod, can’t believe it had even twisted the tube at least it works easy, taken the mudguard and top above hydro unit found was packed full of? what looks like they tried to shear sheep with it, changed oil what was left in hydro as smelt rather bad.
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Few more photos seem can only post one photo? mostly with them cut down can post at least 6 before 4mb, it only posts last dropped.?
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Got the H 16 home this morning its a 1668 model and serial 0501139, Its really been neglected, deck is shot looks like one bearing housing will be ok, tyres aren’t good as perished with cracks, most bits stuck, hydro-trans is very low on oil, engines oil ok but blacker than black, however steering not that worn, so will just brake it for bits and if the hydro is ok will just use that and bin the rest after have rebuilt the Howard Bolens with a V twin, so engine and framework and tin will be spare, had to take tank off to straiten the deck lift lever,
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I hadn’t seen it and half expected to see a rather rust heap, but is quite clean, will see what the rest is like when I get it home, I like the lift lever sort of bent, said he kept oiling it and was stiff to get the button in, I wonder why.
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