Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 126 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #40572
    davidbliss
    Participant

    My grand father had a MG 6 with two furrow Ransomes plough, discs and harrow, he ran on top and not letting a track drop in the furrow if he did often ran the track off, you need right conditions and kind land, fixed swinging drawbars is a no no with crawlers as the plough will steer the tractor it must pull from amidships under the tractor, fixed if you turn left the drawbar goes to the right, not a problem with a light plough but with something heavy it will over time wreck the ploughs frame especially the ploughs drawbar, I like to see all pins and pivots tight, theres nothing more satisfying not having to steer much especially with only brakes as steering pulls down available pulling power unlike steering clutches. we had one of the first 1941 Cat D7 7M agri version open flywheel and clutch first ones ever with hydraulic assisted steering clutches, so easy to use, and the last of the Hexatracks that were strengthened and heavier and on our heavy soil light ploughs use to wander and do all sorts of horrible things to make a mess, but with weight you just pull the lever and go. Utube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DbWxZsRH_Y

    #40543
    davidbliss
    Participant

    A bit more progress, The Eliminator is now knocked down into parts, if only it had been looked after, I always say if it stands still oil it and if it moves oil it some more, Photos whats left, engine and frame, removed the hand lift, someone may need it and is allot better than the hydraulic lift, everything needed heat and persuasion, spent ages getting the PTO shaft off the engine shaft only to find the UJs were shot so might as well gassed it off the hydro in the first place, the steering rack and pinion are good bearing was worn and loose, its different to the other two mowers as the pinion is a separate part on the end of the shaft and held on with a pin, note the worn UJ pin and the hole in the end of the PTO shaft if only they had put oil down it would have saved me some time trying to pull it apart, Eliminators heat shield is now altered and bolted to the bottom half of early two part heat shield of the H XL 11hp. the next job is to make the part that joins the shield underneath sort of a L shape that the PTO goes through this stops dirt being sucked up from underneath the mower.

    Attachments:
    #40521
    davidbliss
    Participant

    Yesterday robbed the Eliminator of its brake parts, luckily had the early original 11hp HXL linkages all I needed was the safety lock and brake pads, the Eliminator parts work but poorly as it looks like had a design change and altered that in a poor way, the early type has a sprung part and works well and can be adjusted without spanners.

    Attachments:
    #40501
    davidbliss
    Participant

    I only run a few things now, but do have the old slow running petter diesel, old pre first WW1 car and modern stuff all run on Shell Helix 15-40, some time ago had to have the Helix plus for some engine that was a bit more expensive, it can be got in 4 litres.

    #40493
    davidbliss
    Participant

    Engine aligned and fitted, update by adding relays for safety locks in the wiring, fitted the bonnet and sides, these I cut down over thirty years ago as the single cylinder used to overheat, now the centre baffle where the prop shaft goes through needs a bit more tin welding onto the sides and across the bottom, the later 14 HXL had more clearance and less air gaps so they must have thought it needed better cooling so I am doing a similar modification but better as no engine mounts to get in the way can give it even more clearance.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by davidbliss.
    Attachments:
    #40480
    davidbliss
    Participant

    Been a bit slow getting on installing the V twin, just sat the engine in and is lining up ok. just needs to be done accurately, for this I take the Flexi coupling out and bolt them up solid and shim up the engine new mounting plates before welding, took a little longer doing the uprated wiring, relays now stop the engine as have known the ignition switches ether fail or people fit the ignition onto a live wire and will instantly blow the units, Very expensive mistake. think the Eliminators wiring a bit untidy.

    Attachments:
    #40459
    davidbliss
    Participant

    Many thanks will try them later when finished the re-engine in the Howard Bolens, its a much more time consuming conversion than swapping out the Tecumseh as completely different tin work, and with different electric drive clutch needing the engine moving forward, so everything else needs altering. had to weld up 11 holes in the very thin tin, that part is very important as stop heat recalculation. the one fitted to the Tecumseh had a one piece with rubber sealing all round, and the one from the 11hp is a two piece poor thing being now made stronger

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by davidbliss.
    Attachments:
    #40445
    davidbliss
    Participant

    No, think its a Eaton, smaller versions are fitted in the Westwood, JD and others. running out of line with the Briggs flat twin and with the heavy prop shaft has knocked out the plain bearings, I was hoping the Eliminator would yield some useful bits but is shot everywhere, just taken the early 11hp out of the Howard Bolens,I rebuilt that 20 something years ago and as hole unit never been neglected going to rebuild that, just odd the 11hp has a 1” 1/8 output shaft flywheel end the new V twin has an 1”inch. When I done the 14hp and fitted the V twin in that that shaft coupling was same as the Tecumseh so a lot easier swap.

    Attachments:
    #40438
    davidbliss
    Participant

    Does any UK firm supply a Hydro seal kit. I have all the nessarsery plain bearings left over from the last one I did. I had forgotten just how many O rings and teflon seals there were in a kit. photo of what had to replace last one I had to do. I tried to building up the damaged squash plate but wasn’t hard enough and the hyro clamps just beaded in, made one out of a heavy duty cultivator leg.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by davidbliss.
    • This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by davidbliss.
    #40431
    davidbliss
    Participant

    Well not going to repair the Eliminator, my old Howard Bolens is in much better not been got at condition yesterday got a USA made V twin, but takes a day building it up, also the old Howard drive shaft is different to the later 14 HXLin that the copling has a 1” inch drive two piece where as the older one is a single piece and bolts strait onto the flywheel, so will copy the later one. just been given some bits looks like three bering housings and bearings with a good belt tensioning pulley still shiny.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by davidbliss.
    Attachments:
    #40399
    davidbliss
    Participant

    A why did they do that?,
    On that Eliminator model they fitted an electric brake on the hydro pedal so when you have got to a speed you want to keep at flick the switch and lock the pedal, not a safe idea in my thinking, been far better to have a variable position stop just to restrict pedal movement to a given speed and if need be would stop as normal, my daughter at only 6-7 used to mow and use a trailer as the hydro was a fail safe as soon as the pedal was released it stopped dead, with the electric braked pedal locked could just imagine the fish getting a bit of excited with a new weed cutter entering the pond or worse. and pedal sit at a silly angle very flattish adjusters look like never been touched, very odd.

    Attachments:
    #40396
    davidbliss
    Participant

    A why did they do that?,
    On that Eliminator model they fitted an electric brake on the hydro pedal so when you have got to a speed you want to keep at flick the switch and lock the pedal, not a safe idea in my thinking, been far better to have a variable position stop just to restrict pedal movement to a given speed and if need be would stop as normal, my daughter at only 6-7 used to mow and use a trailer as the hydro was a fail safe as soon as the pedal was released it stopped dead, with the electric braked pedal locked could just imagine the fish getting a bit of excited with a new weed cutter entering the pond or worse.

    Attachments:
    #40388
    davidbliss
    Participant

    Few bits really usable, all deck parts, bearing housings, shafts and two pulleys are scrap,note early and late pacers so been buggered before, supposedly only used three years, well my deck in forty years use and sometimes mowed 5 acres and weekly mowed 1+ acre has needed little attention and still good. I have now modified the last front carriage to be like the early 1980 one that is easy fit and doesn’t rattle like the mark 2-3 types why on earth did they alter them, never had any issues with the first type, now its been run the hydro is started to leak so thats why it was short of oil, overheated and that heavy drive shaft got lots of runout. several photos.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by davidbliss.
    Attachments:
    #40382
    davidbliss
    Participant

    few photos, straitened the lift rod, can’t believe it had even twisted the tube at least it works easy, taken the mudguard and top above hydro unit found was packed full of? what looks like they tried to shear sheep with it, changed oil what was left in hydro as smelt rather bad.

    Attachments:
    #40381
    davidbliss
    Participant

    I have an old think pre war Citrigan welder, it has a large Capacitor, 1’ftX 6”inches 18”inch deep, I had turned the power off to work on a strip light, looking down from top of ladder could see my extension lead light still on, funny all power was turned off, welder was plugged in but not on, just a thought pulled the welder plug out and off went the lead light. so just bridged across the welders plug and quite a crack and spark, don’t think it would have done me much harm but up a ladder the fall might have been worse, had the welder looked at and the capacitor was wired in wrong side of switch and when switched off the capacitor wasn’t being discharged through the transformer, was told definitely not to touch the capacitor, what do you think the large two inch high porcelain insulators are for.

Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 126 total)