[davidbliss]

Finally finished for this year, modified the horrible plastic deck side shoot of the Eliminator thats now fitted to the original deck of the 11HP, all new bearings and belts so if its like the 14 HXL I did the same too will do twenty+ years without problems.

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[davidbliss]

IS it one of the very early total loss oil systems (plunger and sight glass for the dripper) if its been apart and cleaned they will run ok on any oil as so lightly stressed, I have been about a long time and use a high detergent oil in 100 plus year old early cars, the only thing with early type of cam followers they need help and only the high detergent oils still had the additive that supposedly works.

[davidbliss]

Too much line out will only pull the revs down, however if then its been run at low revs the clutch will slip, if the die-cast shoes are ok have a word with the brake re-line guys as got some small moped shoes done, just make sure they don’t melt them as are baked after bonding, my brother used to borrow it once or twice a year to clear boat portage place along the river Waveney, he would use over a half gallon of petrol, I have a job to use a tank full in an hour working flat out. I expect most of the strimmers I get brought are not repairable, even the good makes are not what they used to be as made down to a price.

[davidbliss]

I have three, now over 40 years old and out perform others of larger size, the one I bought new is untouched and never been apart, the only parts needed were carburettor diaphragms, and the rubber fuel pickup from the tank, the diaphragms a very slightly smaller than the other two. the other one I have just incase the clutch parts company, its not uncommon when people run them slowly so the clutches chatter, so being made of die-cast the pivot bushes come loose, my spare part one was given to me, its not even run in but been pulled apart by? as ever part has been forced, had a phone call one day to say they had broken a blade off the flywheel getting the flywheel off and now vibrated badly, I said if its only one take same amount of the other side, years later was given it and decided to strip it and get it to run, well taking the cover off couldn’t believe there were only three were left one side, well got it to run but it was badly out of balance, also they had butchered the end of the crankshaft, looking at its clutch it had hardly been used. I know ones fitted with the electronic ignition did fail, but never known ones with points to give trouble.

[davidbliss]

Its a why on earth did they alter things, they made three front pulley carriages the fist one is easy fit and doesn’t rattle and last one is a bit awkward if a spring breaks, now find there are thee axle widths going up by 2inch steps the second one they fitted longer half shafts and the third they fitted wider axle casting along with longer shafts but wheel centres are the same as they used differing wheel offsets, all use same chassis and decks.

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[davidbliss]

I am in South Norfolk, I used Metal Coatings GT Yarmouth about 30 miles, years ago used a place Witham? as one firm I used for getting metal only a few miles away had that company collect and deliver weekly. and at that time could handle larger stuff than the Yarmouth platers.
With any of these firms small parts get lost, you need to ask, I can say the Yarmouth boys are helpful.

[davidbliss]

Cost effective? If you don’t look after them NOT, they still need looking after as wet grass causes the galvanise to get the dreaded white mildew, but looking at the two decks the one I never done was very pitted, the other remains smooth, paint isn’t cheap, that deck cost just over £110, put that into trying to bodge up a rotted deck?, one of my pet hates is powder coatings, metal is cleaned, sprayed and baked, trouble is if there are angles the coating shrinks so pulls away, this leaves gaps and moisture corrodes lifting the coating faster, can remember one firms selling point that decks were powder coated.

[davidbliss]

Hydro charge pump now sorted, coupling and new oil filter, the JD boys found cross reference from the old Bolens number so all sorted and fitted back in the frame, got the deck back from being galvanised so now needs all the parts fitting back on, this old 11HXL deck I strengthened as the side discharge leaves it weak and where the rollers attach crack so need help, must be getting on for thirty years back and done the same to the 14 HXL and that was galvanised back then. Photos of strengthened thirty years plus ago and galvanised 11 HXL a few days ago.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 4 months ago by davidbliss.

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[davidbliss]

They got it right with the long working life with the old Cats, they just made them very simple and strong, if you have one apart and throw all parts in a heap theres not that many parts, yes they got worn and loose but kept going, the first time got into the bowls of an International TD 18 thought how nice they were built like a Swiss watch with supper well supported shafts, lovely smooth six cylinder engine, but they took many more hours to do same job and were back in with same failures, Cat D 7s ran double reduction back ends so steering clutches and gears forward of them were lightly stressed.
We haven’t moved forward, friends lawn mower wouldn’t start, got a circuit control board with LEDs so voltage controls and all that goes to work other parts WHY? with a bit of corrosion its dead, when just an ignition, deck and two safety switches that it had anyway that will last and work without the made to fail parts added.

[davidbliss]

My grand father had a MG 6 with two furrow Ransomes plough, discs and harrow, he ran on top and not letting a track drop in the furrow if he did often ran the track off, you need right conditions and kind land, fixed swinging drawbars is a no no with crawlers as the plough will steer the tractor it must pull from amidships under the tractor, fixed if you turn left the drawbar goes to the right, not a problem with a light plough but with something heavy it will over time wreck the ploughs frame especially the ploughs drawbar, I like to see all pins and pivots tight, theres nothing more satisfying not having to steer much especially with only brakes as steering pulls down available pulling power unlike steering clutches. we had one of the first 1941 Cat D7 7M agri version open flywheel and clutch first ones ever with hydraulic assisted steering clutches, so easy to use, and the last of the Hexatracks that were strengthened and heavier and on our heavy soil light ploughs use to wander and do all sorts of horrible things to make a mess, but with weight you just pull the lever and go. Utube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DbWxZsRH_Y

[davidbliss]

A bit more progress, The Eliminator is now knocked down into parts, if only it had been looked after, I always say if it stands still oil it and if it moves oil it some more, Photos whats left, engine and frame, removed the hand lift, someone may need it and is allot better than the hydraulic lift, everything needed heat and persuasion, spent ages getting the PTO shaft off the engine shaft only to find the UJs were shot so might as well gassed it off the hydro in the first place, the steering rack and pinion are good bearing was worn and loose, its different to the other two mowers as the pinion is a separate part on the end of the shaft and held on with a pin, note the worn UJ pin and the hole in the end of the PTO shaft if only they had put oil down it would have saved me some time trying to pull it apart, Eliminators heat shield is now altered and bolted to the bottom half of early two part heat shield of the H XL 11hp. the next job is to make the part that joins the shield underneath sort of a L shape that the PTO goes through this stops dirt being sucked up from underneath the mower.

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[davidbliss]

Yesterday robbed the Eliminator of its brake parts, luckily had the early original 11hp HXL linkages all I needed was the safety lock and brake pads, the Eliminator parts work but poorly as it looks like had a design change and altered that in a poor way, the early type has a sprung part and works well and can be adjusted without spanners.

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[davidbliss]

I only run a few things now, but do have the old slow running petter diesel, old pre first WW1 car and modern stuff all run on Shell Helix 15-40, some time ago had to have the Helix plus for some engine that was a bit more expensive, it can be got in 4 litres.

[davidbliss]

Engine aligned and fitted, update by adding relays for safety locks in the wiring, fitted the bonnet and sides, these I cut down over thirty years ago as the single cylinder used to overheat, now the centre baffle where the prop shaft goes through needs a bit more tin welding onto the sides and across the bottom, the later 14 HXL had more clearance and less air gaps so they must have thought it needed better cooling so I am doing a similar modification but better as no engine mounts to get in the way can give it even more clearance.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by davidbliss.

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[davidbliss]

Been a bit slow getting on installing the V twin, just sat the engine in and is lining up ok. just needs to be done accurately, for this I take the Flexi coupling out and bolt them up solid and shim up the engine new mounting plates before welding, took a little longer doing the uprated wiring, relays now stop the engine as have known the ignition switches ether fail or people fit the ignition onto a live wire and will instantly blow the units, Very expensive mistake. think the Eliminators wiring a bit untidy.

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