[chris]

In the absence of any other replies, I will offer my very limited knowledge,
First give the Anzani a dose of calpol to quieten it down.
The trailer plough should run roughly horizontal across the plough frame and lengthwise.
The rear little wheel only carries the plough when the plough is raised , depth is determined by the land and furrow wheels and the pitch of the shear point the plough body, probably similar to the walk behinds.
The plough drawbar should be adjusted to be horizontal when in work, ie a straight pull without exerting lift or pressure on the plough. The sideways adjustment is a mystery to me !
The tractor drawbar setting seems controversial, some run a fixed position , some let it swing and some restrict the swing.
The rest is practice practice practice.
No doubt this will raise comments from others, who will have other ideas, fair enough!

[chris]

John ew is not the only one who gets this “your membership will be automatically renewed” when going to the renewal page.
It might well be wrong, but it is very confusing, not worried in my case as I will use the paper system to renew.
Just concerned other members might be confused by this.

Chris

[chris]

9 out of 12 for me, much better than other years, though have to admit to 12 guesses!

[chris]

If you look this site at member downloads there is a manual for the TS 42 plough, the spares list shows the different mouldboards/ shares that were available for this plough, including the part number.
Finding one is more difficult, there are people who have old stocks of plough parts and break up old ploughs for parts.
I don’t know if a modern mouldboard could be adapted to fit.
Sometimes it is possible to find incomplete ploughs that have the parts you need on them.

[chris]

What time does the event start/ open, is there a charge for spectators ?

[chris]

I intend to be there as a spectator, hopefully I might learn something! This will be my first visit to VHGMC event!

[chris]

Personally, I think the proposed band is too narrow, I would like to see a max horsepower of 18hp and age of rolling 40 years old.
Surely the idea is to bring more people to the hobby.
Keeping it too narrow will reduce it.

I can see the argument that when is the point that horticultural or compact tractors becomes equal to agricultural tractors.

[chris]

Carb looks complete to me, you do have the air filter that fits on top?
Have you reset the mixture screw on the carb?
What sort of poor running are you experiencing?

[chris]

On the subject of replacement tines, try a different agricultural supplier, the dealers are often tied to the manufacturers they are agents for and tend to stock what they have sold.
An independent general stockist will have all sorts of tine points, I used (when I was working ) Hargreaves agriculture of Holbeach, they could get all sorts of points and being an oldish company they had great knowledge.
We also had a machinery dealer/ scrap man chap that had bought old dealer stock over the years, he had some amazing stuff, usually if he could remember which tin shed or part of the yard he kept them in, again his knowledge was amazing.
If you can find similar in your area you might be lucky!

[chris]

The most important thing is that there is a gap of at least what is specified, otherwise when the engine is hot the valves may not close fully, so causing the valve to burn and reduce performance.
Obviously there is not much that can be done with too wide a gap, as the adjustment is to grind the end of the valve! I’m my limited experience the valve lift is quite high so performance is less affected Though if tuning for performance you will have to fit new valves.

Valve removal is fairly easy if you make up a G clamp type tool to facilitate it.

[chris]

Well after an afternoon of rummaging through various boxes and cans of bolts I have found one a bit longer in 1/4 UNC, I have run a tap down the filter housing again 1/4 UNC (1/4 and 6 mm use taps always difficult to find, they break easily) and with a fibre washer all assembled and fitted!
Next question is, I intend to fill and run the tractor on white road diesel , for the amount I will use it’s not worth the effort to get red diesel.
Is there a down side to white as it is a higher cetane number?

[chris]

I will expect that there will be many opinions on this!
Some will recommend lubrication with engine oil, some with gear oil, some with an aerosol grease and some will say coat the coupling with grease! Some might even suggest a chain lubricant that ‘ sticks ‘ better. Like we Chainsaw chain oil
Lubrications will attract dirt and grit , some will say this accelerates wear.
However rusty couplings wear as well, and rusty is harder to dismantle to replace!
I would say if using oil, lubricate regularly to hopefully wash away the collected dirt as well as to lubricate. If your really keen before or after each use.
My opinion is it doesn’t matter what lubrications you use so long as you use one.
I

[chris]

I cannot speak for the toro, not dealt with them.
The Ransomes is a motor triple, all mechanical drive through belts from engine to transmission through varispeed pulleys.
A good solid machine, however the faults are if you travel with the cylinders half raised a lot you will shear the rollpins in the lift levers , not a big problem but another job.
I don’t know if parts are still available for these machines, but back in the eighties when I was working on them parts were expensive, ie traction belt £80 , the double U/J drives to the left or right front cylinders was very expensive at the time I think£200 , this coupling is less than a foot long, (even the manager queried that one) .
If you are buying one make sure the cutting cylinders are not worn out, ( down to the internal supports) and see what condition the blades are in, not bent ,chipped or other damage.
The machines were fairly reliable, we worked them nearly everyday over the cutting season for about 7 years each , though they had a full service and sharpen etc each winter.
The Mag engine was very good, we never had one in pieces! Engine Faults were always the stuff that bolts onto the engine!
Most repairs are straight forward as it is all mechanical, only electric is the starter and dynamo and lights.
No hydraulics to be troublesome and everything else shafts rods and linkages! Be aware cylinders mowers need much more attention than rotary.

[chris]

The B7100 I worked with I thought had Kubota decks on them, however I am very aware that they could have been made by someone else, I know of a manufacturer making implements and trailers , some are painted orange and badged Kubota!
We were using them for local authority grass maintenance, verges, play areas and some amenity areas.
The electric front PTO was a little troublesome, and the crankshaft connection could fail, damaging the front of the crank.
Bearing in mind these were working five days a week for about seven hours a day, maybe they did quite well, the operators were bonus driven and not sympathetic to the kit.
To fit the deck you just drove over it and connected all the linkages and drives.

[chris]

Hi peter
I worked on the b7100 models, certainly they could have underslung decks on them, drive came from an electromagnetic clutch on the front of the tractor driven by the crankshaft. Then if my memory is correct a belt drive to a longitudinal shaft driving the mower.
Some compacts have a centre PTO drive underneath the tractor , can’t remember if the
B 7100 hadthese or not (be fair here it was thirty years ago.)

No doubt other members will know or remember better than me.
Chris

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