[chris]

Thanks Charlie
I tried online to join but the PayPal would not work, possibly because I haven’t used it in years, so I went with paper!

[chris]

Hello all.
Membership pack came through this morning, but being told on this site that I don’t have access to this without membership. Am I being dim or what? Or possibly impatient?

[chris]

Never ever scrap vintage kit, you just need to find the person that wants it, here looks like a good place!!

Chriis

[chris]

hi Alasdair
If you look closely at the coupling, two holes tighten it up and usually two holes just expand the taper lock to get it off, though frequently a blow with a hammer is needed to get it started!
At 3/4 inch to metric there is very little difference in size I was thinking of 1 inch shaft to 25 mm.
If you go down the liquid lock route then I would suggest you choose carefully, thread lock doesn’t always set hard and would perhaps not be the best.
There are lots of different loctite bonds , bearing lock or gap fill or similar might be better. Suggest google?
But beware some will need heat (blowtorch) to dismantle again later!

Chris

[chris]

Hello Alasdair.
I assume you are talking about a taper lock coupling as the method of holding the pulley.
These are usually pretty good!

Have you replaced the Briggs engine with anther Briggs or have you used an engine of another manufacturer?
I was wondering if the shaft sizes are the same, in them both being imperial sizes, not a mixture of imperial and metric!

Chris

[chris]

There is another type of grease gun end, one with a point on that fits into the hole on the grease nipple, as the whole end is narrower it is very useful on things like universal joints.
It does need pushing and holding on while pumping.

Not the easiest type to find and they come in either screw onto the grease gun or as a clip on to a normal grease gun end.

Chris

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