Charlie Moore (aka charlie)
@charlie Active 2 hours, 36 minutes agoForum Replies Created
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April 16, 2021 at 10:37 am #36953 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterDigital copy added to website page. April 16, 2021 at 7:22 am #36949 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterMy copy of the April issue arrived yesterday. April 16, 2021 at 7:17 am #36948 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterWhat is vintage? A 1980’s machine could be 30-40 years old now. 
 If this mower is that old then it is in very good condition.April 14, 2021 at 7:57 pm #36934 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterTony, have a look at page A27 of the parts list it shows a handle on the front. April 14, 2021 at 7:48 pm #36933 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterIt may be worth contacting Hayter with the machine serial number they may be able to help. 
 I have a very similar machine which I still use, not in such good condition.April 13, 2021 at 3:14 pm #36926 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterIs this one any good, it is a parts list. 
 https://www.allotment-garden.org/rotavator-manuals/M1-Mountfield-Cultivator-Parts-List.pdf
 and this looks like the operators manual
 https://www.allotment-garden.org/rotavator-manuals/mountfield-m1-rotavator-instructions-manual.pdfApril 8, 2021 at 3:31 pm #36919 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterNo idea about spares availability. 
 Yes I believe it is the same company see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corgi_Motorcycle_Co_Ltd.April 8, 2021 at 7:06 am #36916 charlieKeymasterMarch 31, 2021 at 7:02 am #36881 charlieKeymasterMarch 31, 2021 at 7:02 am #36881 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterThe FBHVC have revamped their Fuels information page a lot of details about various aspects of modern fuel, eg ethanol, volatility etc. Well worth a read. March 31, 2021 at 6:59 am #36880 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterSounds like a step in the right direction. Have you cleaned out the carb? Make sure new fuel line is suitable for the E10 petrol coming in later this year. March 29, 2021 at 8:16 am #36875 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterMembership application received and processed, pm received. March 28, 2021 at 9:09 am #36852 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterjuliett924 I have sent you a pm. To view pm log in and click on your user id then select messages. March 28, 2021 at 9:04 am #36851 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterMel, 
 When you hold the bare lead to the engine block do you get a good bright spark that should jump a gap equivalent to plug gap or is it a weal spark that barely jumps any gap?March 27, 2021 at 9:46 am #36839 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterYou have come to the right place. I am custodian of the factory records and machine 955A was delivered on 18-11-52 to W Tysonell (if I have read the hand writing correctly), Holmewood, Kirkby Muxloe, Leics. 
 The series one machines were produced from March 1951 to Dec 1952, when they were replaced by the series 2 machine. One sales leaflet I have says they were available in a choice of 6 colours, but it does not say what the colours were, most I have seen are green.
 Whenever I have problems with Villiers engine and no spark first job is to give the points a thorough clean to remove all trace of oxidation and corrosion. Then check for spark at end of lead to rule out a faulty plug. If I need to replace the coil I also replace points and condenser, that way I know everything is good and only have to reset timing once. I use Villiersparts.co.uk for coils etc, other suppliers are about.
 I can supply scanned copies of manual for MK10 engine and series one Monrotiller, send me a pm with your email address if you want them.March 26, 2021 at 9:10 am #36837 charlieKeymaster charlieKeymasterIt could well be. When I set the timing on these engines I remove the cylinder head so I can measure the distance from TDC accurately. To find point at which contacts open I have invested in a magneto timing light, but before buying that I used a very thin piece of paper between the points to determine when they just start to open. When tightening the flywheel nut I check the timing to make sure the flywheel has not moved. Finally to make sure the flywheel nut is tight I give the spanner a good hard whack with a hammer, fortunately I have the correct flogging/slogging spanner which is designed to be hit with a hammer. 
 Is the points gap correct? Check this first as it the easiest.
 Are the valves set correctly and are the valve seats and faces in good order, no pits or burning?
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