Charlie Moore (aka charlie)
@charlie Active 1 day, 8 hours agoForum Replies Created
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May 10, 2015 at 7:41 am #13002
charlieKeymasterLooks good, should get plenty of interest at shows, a very unusual exhibit.
May 9, 2015 at 9:28 am #12975
charlieKeymasterNote, the photos show a series 2 gearbox, basically the same as a series 3 but with one less gear ratio, only two speed not three. The reverse gear is mounted on the outside of the gearbox on l/h side on a series 3.
May 9, 2015 at 9:27 am #12971
charlieKeymasterI think I can see what the problem is. The bearing MT90 on the end of the input shaft MT18 is probably stuck (rusted) in the clutch drive plate which is attached to the gearbox.Photo shows the bearing I refer to. The only way I can see to separate the engine from the gearbox will be to gently lever the engine off the gearbox, this should either extract bearing from drive plate or pull bearing of end of shaft. Wooden wedges driven between engine and gearbox on both sides to ensure engine comes off square to gearbox. Before starting it will be well worth supporting engine and gearbox on wooden blocks so neither can tip when engine comes off.
I have taken a series of photos showing how to split the gearbox, let me know if you want them.
Below left to right, general view of gearbox internals, clutch and bearing which is probable cause of engine sticking.May 9, 2015 at 7:27 am #12970
charlieKeymasterRemoval of the bronze worm wheel is not easy and not something I would recommend, it is something you do not want to damage and yours appears to be in good condition. I will be having a rumage in the shed today and will see if I can find an engine gearbox and clutch to see if I can work out what is stopping your engine coming off.
May 8, 2015 at 11:14 am #12964
charlieKeymasterDave, that is the boot of the Volvo.
May 8, 2015 at 11:11 am #12963
charlieKeymasterPeter, have you tried contact Bob Maries, he runs the Garner register.
May 7, 2015 at 5:32 am #12956
charlieKeymasterFunny you should say that John, there is room in the garden.
May 7, 2015 at 5:30 am #12955
charlieKeymasterApart from the four nuts the only other thing to remove from the engine is the throttle cable, it should then just pull off. The only thing I can think that is holding the engine is the clutch. On the engine is mounted a metal disc with 3 fingers, these engage with the clutch disc MT23. The clutch disc is held by spring pressure between MT21 and MT22. I will get some photographs at the weekend so you can see what it looks like when apart.
May 6, 2015 at 2:14 pm #12942
charlieKeymasterJoe,
the bronze gear is that shape so it meshes with the work on the main shaft. It does not look too bad, I have seen them with sharp edges to the teeth caused by excessive wear. It might be worth giving the gearbox a good wash out with degreaser and a power washer. The engine is held on by 4 bolts/studs. I think I need to have a dig around in the shed and find some Monro bits to photograph to give you an idea of what it should look like and how it should come apart.May 5, 2015 at 4:21 pm #12931
charlieKeymasterGreensparkplug Company are good for old type spark plugs. What is currently fitted?
May 5, 2015 at 4:16 pm #12930
charlieKeymaster4603 dates from 26/6/63 a fairly late one, production by Geo Monro ended in 1965.
No spark could be as simple as dirty points or need a complete magneto rebuild with new coil, points and condenser, plus backplate. Lack of compression might be a stuck valve, removal of cylinder head should confirm what problem is. Gearbox full of water is not a good sign, at worst you will have to split gearbox and inspect gears for serious rust. Tyres will be a problem as they are obsolete, same as used on Merry Tiller and small Barford Atom. Control cables can be made.
Happy to give any help and advice I can. Will need to check parts from scrap machines to see what spares I have.May 4, 2015 at 5:07 pm #12890
charlieKeymasterJoe if you google Monro Tiller you should find my website, some info on there about each model. Tyres are obsolete, but are the same as used on Merry Tiller amongst other machine such as the smaller Barford Atom. 4 types of tine were available, knife which are straight, normal digging look like a sickle, hoeing L shaped and scuffling tines. I have owners manual as pdf file includes illustrated parts list.
Weak point is bottom of chain guard on miller drive, it wears through. Make sure you use a straight gear oil in the gearbox, not EP type. Lack of ground clearance can be an issue when working at maximum depth.May 4, 2015 at 12:31 pm #12886
charlieKeymasterHad 2 new engine side covers made by EFL Panels. No other progress, busy with other things and Alex now has another Land Rover project in the garage!
May 4, 2015 at 12:26 pm #12885
charlieKeymasterI will have a look at my series 3 and see what is what and hopefully come up with a solution to your bearing problem.
May 2, 2015 at 7:06 am #12827
charlieKeymasterJames welcome back. Do you have an owners manual? This has an illustrated parts list which will help identify what is missing. Best option would be to strip it down and see what is worn or missing.
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