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Viewing 15 posts - 1,711 through 1,725 (of 2,538 total)
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  • #13130
    charlie
    Keymaster

    If the rings are seized in the piston grooves you can try freeing them off by gently scrapping the carbon away with an old feeler gauge. I did this with a JAP engine on a Gunsmith.

    #13103
    charlie
    Keymaster

    Does it have a Briggs & Stratton engine?

    #13100
    charlie
    Keymaster

    Good news by the look of it, a good clean will confirm this. Whilst you have it apart it will be worth checking the plunger on the oil pump works. The gearbox I stripped recently the plunger was sticking and would not have pumped oil. This is critical as it pumps oil to the worm gear.
    Ratchets are unlocked with pin out, see page 11 of manual. A good clean should and oil should free everything off without dismantling completely. Check pawl spring MT215 is not broken.
    I am currently making up some control cables for another club member and will be writing an article for The Cultivator covering removal and fitting of same, also how to split gearbox.

    #13083
    charlie
    Keymaster

    What will this mean for the Newark show in November?

    #13082
    charlie
    Keymaster

    Per, you have two 56E with consecutive serial numbers, that must be a lucky find.

    #13069
    charlie
    Keymaster

    There seems to be at least three versions of the spark plug flap.
    SIMAR
    SIMAR Rototiller
    SIMAR British Rototiller
    Some of the spares list I have appear to be printed in Geneve and refer to Rototiller.

    #13066
    charlie
    Keymaster

    Finding tyres for our type of machines can be difficult.

    #13065
    charlie
    Keymaster

    It can be a fiddle finding neutral between each gear, in my opinion the gear lever should be longer making it easier to reach.

    #13064
    charlie
    Keymaster

    Per, I have checked in the factory records which I am custodian of for the VHGMC and can confirm your machine was made by Geo Monro. It is one of 20, serial numbers 560757 to 560776, exported to Sweden on 24-3-1950. Sent to Wilhelmson, this could be a spelling mistake as other entries show Vilhelmson etc see below. Other entries in the records show the following also going to Sweden,
    560501 to 560512 on 8-11-49 Villelsson.
    560543 to 560555 on 9-12-49 Villelmson.
    560577 to 560581 on 23-1-50 Villelmson.
    560592 to 560641 on 23-1-50 to 30-1-50 several batches going to different locations, Stockholm, Malmo, Gothenberg.
    560672 to 560741 on 21-2-50 and 24-3-50, two batches.
    560807 to 560871 on 20-4-50 to 22-6-50, three batches.
    560882 to 560916 on 16-5-50 to 22-6-50 several batches.
    560949 to 560958 on 7-7-50
    A total of 285 machines.
    The serial number plate appears to be one fitted by dealer in Sweden. I have not seen a spark plug cover with only SIMAR on it.

    #13045
    charlie
    Keymaster

    The Trusty Earthquake had two engine options, the Villiers MK25 (3hp at 2500rpm) or the 4/44 (7hp at 3000 rpm). Will need to drag my Mk25 powered machine out of the shed to count teeth on sprocket.
    trusty220 may know the answer.

    #13030
    charlie
    Keymaster

    I will be there. Arriving Friday, with marquee, BBQ, etc.

    #13003
    charlie
    Keymaster

    The rotor box has seen very little use by the look of it as the ‘feet’ on the bottom of the side covers seem to have no wear.

    #13002
    charlie
    Keymaster

    Looks good, should get plenty of interest at shows, a very unusual exhibit.

    #12975
    charlie
    Keymaster

    Note, the photos show a series 2 gearbox, basically the same as a series 3 but with one less gear ratio, only two speed not three. The reverse gear is mounted on the outside of the gearbox on l/h side on a series 3.

    #12971
    charlie
    Keymaster

    I think I can see what the problem is. The bearing MT90 on the end of the input shaft MT18 is probably stuck (rusted) in the clutch drive plate which is attached to the gearbox.Photo shows the bearing I refer to. The only way I can see to separate the engine from the gearbox will be to gently lever the engine off the gearbox, this should either extract bearing from drive plate or pull bearing of end of shaft. Wooden wedges driven between engine and gearbox on both sides to ensure engine comes off square to gearbox. Before starting it will be well worth supporting engine and gearbox on wooden blocks so neither can tip when engine comes off.
    I have taken a series of photos showing how to split the gearbox, let me know if you want them.
    Below left to right, general view of gearbox internals, clutch and bearing which is probable cause of engine sticking.

    Attachments:
Viewing 15 posts - 1,711 through 1,725 (of 2,538 total)