Atco 14 inch

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Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 169 total)
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  • #4250
    martin-ellison
    Participant

    i got a code from lawn mowers club but it was a light sickly green i was told mid brunswick green which is a lot better and darker simar kid has just painted his atco and his a much darker green picture can be seen on his atco restore project i have 4 to do so would be good to know whos right martin

    #4252
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hi. Wristpin sent me colour which i had analised and made by the paint people i use. The numbers are in project so a call to them will get you what i painted mine with a d its a perfect match

    #4255
    darmic1
    Participant

    Hi John, yes I saw that. I wondered if the code refered to a BS or RAL name or number, as the main parts of the mower will be powder coated. Only the tank and engine will be painted.

    #4256
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    the numbers mean a lot to willamsons of ripon, but they are not a ral or any other paint system. martin if you need any of the paint you could collect ex works and you will save postage if you decide you like it.

    #4274
    darmic1
    Participant

    Have now joined the old lawnmower club, so will see if they know if there is a matching colour with BS or RAL codes for my powder coater……

    #4275
    darmic1
    Participant

    Spent an hour in the garage this evening. The crankcase is all back together with the new gasket.

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    #4279
    darmic1
    Participant

    Put the flywheel back on to adjust the points, and after lining up the 2 arrows, discovered that it might be a bit of a faf to adjust the points and refit the points cover. The flywheel obscures the points completely!

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    #4282
    darmic1
    Participant

    Got the first coat of Smoothrite on the Barrel too……

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    #4285
    darmic1
    Participant

    The new parts arrived from Meetens today, so the carb is now back together.

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    #4288
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    coming along nicely now ,its not going to be long now once you get the colour sussed.The points as you say are an awkward one for sure but I guess if you can lock the other end of crankshaft while you remove flywheel it should not be that bad.

    #4290
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Using the timing marks method I’ve found is usually fine for the 4strokes but with the 2strokes it can be worth setting it as per the manual, at the moment I can’t remember how many degrees it is.

    #4292
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Dont know the degrees but its 3/16th BTDC if that helps

    #4296
    darmic1
    Participant

    The method for setting timing does state, 1/8″ before tdc, as the arrows are just a guide. Re the difficulty getting to the points, have found several pictures showing the back plate turned through 180º, ie with the coil to the top left. Not as mine was when stripped down. Am wondering if this will have much of an effect on it, as the whole assembly will be turned through 180º. It will certainly make setting the points easier!

    #4297
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Darren. I would give it a try,like so many of our projects the have a go joes get going and then they give up in desperation then we get them and make the babies sing. all down to the knowledge on this fine forum.

    #4337
    darmic1
    Participant

    Well, its been confirmed…….. I was not thinking clearly earlier. I thought that if I turned the back plate through 180 degrees, that the flywheel would no longer be covering the points. Hmmmm, a definate blonde moment. The whole assembly moves doesn’t it, Its exactly the same, just opposite where it was! However, its not all bad news, The coil is now at the top left, where almost every picture shows it to be. The HT lead now exits opposite side to the exhaust, and not under it. I think its right now, anyone confirm this for me please?

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