[wristpin]

Plenty of the “wrong” ones available on the dreaded but as yet havn’t found the one that I want. In fact one engine that I acquired had an incorrect one “fitted” – it locked the throttle solid! . The rods are easy to make and as the vane is out of sight I can knock up one to match the shape and dimensions of the original one . I’m Going to experiment with pressing in swages to match the original and give it some strength. Also have some feelers out for possible sources.
There’s no hurry to find one so something may turn up.

[wristpin]

Unless someone knows the answer I suggest you beg, borrow or buy a set of thread gauges – not expensive – then when you have established the threads per inch and diameter it will be possible to work out what you have.
I’ve just been through that exercise on a Suffolk engine which turned out to be 3/8 24tpi UNF LHT

[wristpin]

Neat job there. I’ve got a set of anti clockwise twist drills that I keep for jobs like that and quite often they will grab the broken jet or stud and unscrew it – very satisfying!

[wristpin]

Not a silly question but a bit more info wouldn’t go Amis. Is the Ransomes the model that was called the Twenty Four. If so the engine is probably a Villiers F15.
Before you rush off buying new parts have you started by giving the contact breaker points a thorough clean and then set the correct gap?
Your best bet for Villiers parts is either http://Www.villiersparts.co.uk or meetens,co,uk

[wristpin]

As you have bought a new coil its a bit late for this but you may find it of interest.
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/en/support/faqs/ignition-system-theory-and-testing

When fitting the new coil just remember to set the air gap correctly!

[wristpin]

Many mower repairers will have a pile of magnetron coils from scrap engines and one shouldn’t cost you more than a new set of points. Just take your coil with you as there are some small differences in the width between the fixing screws.

[wristpin]

Quite normal!

[wristpin]

Another machinery forum that I subscribe to moves it’s AGM around the country and usually holds it at a member’s premises combining it with viewing that member’s collection of machinery and anything else that anyone has brought along. Seems to work quite well but many members are in the machinery business and possibly running on Company diesel !
In this day and age is there a possibility of conducting the AGM on line?

[wristpin]

Before you lay out for a new coil there is one thing worth trying. Remove the coil and make sure that the face of the two supporting pillars is clean and free from corrosion and the same for the area on the coil armature (laminations) that sits on the pillars. then reinstall the coil with the necessary 10-14 thou air gap between it and the flywheel.
Best way to set the air gap is to turn the flywheel so that the magnet is at six o’clock, refit the coil pulled as far from the flywheel as it will go and tighten one retaining screw, leave the other just loose. Rotate the flywheel so that the magnet is under the coil, insert your non magnetic air gap gauge (double thickness of old micro fiche or brown luggage label!) between the coil and flywheel and slacken the screw. The magnet will pull the coil down onto the gauge. Tighten both screws and rotate the flywheel to extract the gauge.
Note that the coil must be installed so that the flywheel magnet rotating in a clockwise direction passes the “lump” of the magnetron module first. Genuine Briggs coils are marked inside or outside (can’t remember which!!)
Then do the spark test again and if no spark feel safe to spend forty quid!

[wristpin]

The coil under the flywheel will be the battery charging coil for an electric start machine and does not affect the ignition but if its a points ignition engine there will be a circular “tin” cover within the inner circumference of that coil with the crankshaft protruding in its centre. Within that cover will be contact breaker points and a condenser. the points may need to be cleaned.
If no points, you have an engine with Magnetron electronic ignition which is all contained within the external ignition coil. With the kill wire removed from the coil (eliminates the effect of any safety switches) and the engine rotated at more than 350 rpm you should get a spark off the end of the plug lead that will jump 1/4″. No spark probably indicates a failed coil.
Be aware that on an electric start machine a faulty ignition switch can send battery voltage down the kill wire and into the coil, killing it for good!

[wristpin]

If a Briggs it would probably have been fitted with either a Champion CJ8 or J8 – now an RJ17LM or RJ19LM.
The NGK equivalent is a BR2LM

[wristpin]

Sometimes easier to weld them solid and then grip with 30″ Stillsons!

[wristpin]

Definitely a non standard set up for a 300 or 350. Is there any clutch lever on the handle bars operating a belt tensioning/slackening mechanism. If there is not, no wonder you were asking how to select gears! Crashing the gears in and out will not have been doing the selector collars andy good.

[wristpin]

Quite possibly but depending upon how much you value the machine not a disaster and not a difficult job to do. Worst scenario is that the roller shaft drive sprocket is well and truly seized on the shaft and it has to come off to get the roller out of its carrier. Put a puller on it and it turns inside out, warm it up too much with the gas axe and you melt the plastic bearing carrier behind it. Carrier is cheaper than the sprocket but in a commercial situation if the sprocket didn’t yield so some gentle persuasion we would probably cut it off !
Try a bit of heat on the sprocket, careful use of the puller and some plus gas releasing fluid and with a bit of luck it will draw off.

[wristpin]

Let’s have some pictures! Worth a thousand words etc!!

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