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The simple failure is that the input pulley has stripped its splines and is turning without turning anything within the trans axle. It still means splitting the ‘box to replace it – I think . Although I have seen them welded as a quick get out of trouble.
Unfortunately I left all my transmission data and parts books behind when I sold my business in 2012. The business was subsequently closed and all that sort of thing got binned.

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Is there a manufacturer’s tag on the transaxle . Looks like it may be a Spicer ?

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For a start, does it have a hydrostatic or gear drive transmission?
When the machine is stationary with the transmission in neutral but with the drive to the transmission engaged, can you see the transmission input pulley going round?
With the rear of the machine raise with both wheels clear of the ground, does turning one wheel cause the other one to rotate. Give an outward tug on each wheel – are they firmly located.

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If it’s 1/2” reach, Champion L10/L86. NGK B6HS

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That basic design started life as a Horwool and became a Nickerson when Horwool sold out.
I’ve still got a Horwool pedestrian scarifier.

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Were we supposed to see an image?

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What engine?

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May not be a disaster. Seen more than a few cracked blocks repaired with JB weld or even body filler.Just needs to keep the oil in. If “the base of the bore” is below the area wiped by the rings you may well get away with it. It’s amazing what one can get away with when needs must and there’s little to loose. You may get away with a used Conrad and a couple of gaskets.Whisper it quietly but I’ve build up a sweet running engine from the remains of two or three wreckers on more than one occasion.

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If you pull out the metal retainer to the left ? Of the worm wheel you can slide the whole auxiliary pto shaft far enough to access the hex head without driving out the roll pin. If you do need to free the gear, you can with care rotate the crank to align the gear to a position where there is sufficient clearance for the pin to be driven clear of the shaft but still retained in the gear.
Has your Harrier got a dog clutch on the aux pto shaft to engage the drive? A common problem with well used dog clutch Harriers is excessive end float on the shaft making proper clutch adjustment tricky and leading to worn dogs. If so, worth dealing with at this stage as at the last time of checking one or both halves of the dog clutch were unavailable. I developed a cunning wheeze for dealing with excessive apto end float without having to remove the engine sump.
If you have the Power Trac wrap spring clutch, the same applies.
When it comes to reassembly time you will see that Briggs list different thicknesses of gasket to control the crankshaft end float at the very least you must use the thickest one,30thou . That’s usually all that is needed to give sufficient clearance but should there be way too much there is / was a shim available.
Don’t worry about the cam timing , both the cam and crank gears are marked.
Whoops, Just seen on one of your images that you do appear to have a dog clutch.

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Your sump guard is actually the friction disc that supports the blade and allows it to slip if you hit something . Description aside they can be a bit of s B****r to get off. Remove the fuel tank and turn the machine upside down and fill the blade bolt hole with a proper penetrating/ releasing fluid such as Plus Gas, leave to soak for a couple of days Topping up as necessary. Diesel is an acceptable substitute and some people swear by a home brew of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. WD is a waste of time.
A puller needs to pick up on the two holes near the centre, not around the circumference, and can be made with a piece of steel bar and a couple of bolts. Last resort is plenty of heat around the boss but try a good soak first.
Assuming that you have a Briggs and Stratton engine, A new con rod can probably be obtained from a BS stockist – quote the full Model, Type and Code Numbers stamped into the engine cowling or muffler shield, but I’d check that the crank is recoverable before ordering.

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X 2 for Meetens, been buying Kohler parts from them since the 1970s !!

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When my late business partner and I started our business in 1981 we did not have any direct accounts for new machines so we bought some from a certain well known “ broker” of end of line machines. One of our first purchases was several metallic blue MTD tractor mowers . Pre 81 I can remember Barrus exhibiting at Motspur Park, probably the first “ direct collect” machine made specifically for the UK market, the MTD 826. The one at the show was metallic blue but the production machines were the more familiar red and silver.

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I’m reliably informed that it is the same key as a Jawa CZ motorcycle and that they are freely available.

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I think that the engine is a Kirby Lauson (Australian made Tecumseh).

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Certainly appears to have Landmaster dna but is rather elaborate for a home modified machine. That wedge shaped fuel tank could be a clue.

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