[wristpin]

Looks like the engine is a Mk25 Villiers – the ID plate is still in place for confirmation – so that shouldn’t present any insuperable issues.
As for the make – over to someone else !

[wristpin]

It is possible that you may have mixed up two methods of setting the timing. Your original method of putting the piston to the specified amount before tdc and turning the fly wheel unit the points just open is correct.
On some engines, In an move to make things easier Villiers muddied the waters a bit by doing all the initial set up and then stamping an arrow on to the flywheel corresponding to a nib on the casting with the piston positioned at tdc. Muddle the two systems together and the timing will be somewhat amiss.
I would go back to your basic method. Set the correct points gap , turn the engine back to the specified figure and fit and lock the flywheel in the position where the points are just opening .

In case it is of use I’ve just scanned this for you. Interestingly in this edition there is no mention of the “short cut”.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dhg5cytoyqgb8yr/Villiers%20Mk25%20C25%20ignition%20setting0001.pdf?dl=0

[wristpin]

Points and timing are all correct.

Did you set the timing from basics ie x degrees or fractions of an inch btdc or by using any arrows or marks that you may have found on the flywheel ?

[wristpin]

Try Martyn Channer, he breaks and refurbs a lot of Ransomes equipment, mainly gangs, but you never know.

[wristpin]

Many Ransomes part numbers have the prefix MBA. In your case it will identify the casting that makes up the gearbox rather than the whole unit. Certainly looks like a Multimower gearbox.

[wristpin]

It was quite usual for trailed gangs to hook up in that way; sometimes in reverse orientation so that in the absence of mechanical disengagement the cylinders were not driven during transport. As for yellow, I’ll leave that to someone else. Other clues that may help with identification are whether “ your” set did have disengagement levers on the wheel gearboxes and whether they were on rubber tyres or studded steel wheels.
Common makes were Ransomes, Lloyds and Shanks ; and possibly others that I’ve forgotten about.

[wristpin]

Don’t recollect ever seeing one in red and silver but I do remember seeing one or two of those “rat trap” grass collectors – mainly abandoned at the back of owners’ sheds!. Even In the early 80s many of those riders were suffering from poor maintenance, rust and chassis fatigue. Hard driven ones on rough ground used to crack where the flat foot boards met the upstand of the engine housing – broken seat pillars too!

[wristpin]

Basically a Murray . They came in both the gold/ yellow and the Mountfield red.
Most got robbed of their decks and given to the children to run round on. In the local collective sales they seldom make much but a dealer friend has a buyer from Poland who seems to like them.
Pity about the repaint – originality gone for ever.

[wristpin]

Certainly the Mk25 was the original engine on the 34. If you remove the starter pulley etc you will get down to the main flywheel nut which will be very tight and have a self extracting action . It will loosen off and then go tight again . Further undoing will pull the flywheel off it’s taper. I say “ will” but it can be a struggle.
Back in the day Villiers supplied a special box spanner with strong tommy bar designed to be hot with a heavy hammer.

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[wristpin]

I’ve got a parts book for the JAP 600cc side valve Mark111 type 5 and the only place I can find a bearing with loose rollers is “timing side roller 15 “. You say drive side and your image shows 18 rollers! The driving side shows a normal ball bearing.
So I guess that either I’m looking in the wrong place or even the wrong version of the engine ?

[wristpin]

Possible parts supply. Have you tried the guy that I private messaged you about ?

[wristpin]

Just caught up with this thread. Forget my comments about splines – your pulley is keyed!
A word to the wise when you attempt to open the ‘box. The two halves of such ‘boxes are often held together with “taptite” screws. That is ones that cut their own threads on initial assembly. Over time, the interaction between the steel screws and alloy castings can make them difficult to remove. Time and care spent getting them out is better that later attempting to deal with sheared screws.
If they resist initial reasonable force a little localised heat around each one may be useful together with some proper penetrating fluid such as Plus Gas – not the dreaded WD !

[wristpin]

Hunting, as opposed to misfiring, is usually a sign of a weak mixture. See if a little bit of choke smooths it out. If so it confirms a weak mixture. Probably requires further cleaning of the carb.

[wristpin]

The old adage of “ some is better than none” still holds good but now we do have “ dry lubricant” in an aerosol that goes on wet but drys leaving a lubricating film without the dust attracting stickiness.

[wristpin]

Yes the pulley that inputs the drive to the box. If the shaft does have stripped splines, just check that it can’t be changed without splitting the box. On many of the Tuff Torq boxes that we used to distribute that shaft could be changed with no other dismantling.

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