[wristpin]

I haven’t seen him or heard anything of him for several years – he would be a good age. My first memory of him was in the 80s at one of the Ashford collective sales when he had one of the early “ mobile” phones the size of a small suitcase. The assembled punters gave him a fair amount of good natured banter.

[wristpin]

A clearer image with the bonnet open will help identify your engine, but if you are intending to replace rather than repair, a Briggs will certainly be a easier to find and is more resilient. Depending upon the crankshaft diameter you may even be able to up the horsepower a bit.

[wristpin]

We never got involved with YTS but did take lads for two weeks “ work experience” from the local Secondary Modern school. Some totally disinterested , some attentive but inept and one in particular very enthusiastic and came to work for us when he left school . Now runs a very successful garden machinery repair business.

[wristpin]

With that code number it is right on the turning point for the change over from points ignition to the electronic Magnetron system. Look in the centre of the recoil starter housing and see if it says Magnetron. If it does that eliminates dirty points. If not, the chances are that the contact breaker points have corroded or their operating plunger has stuck.
To deal with that you will have to remove the cowling (blower housing) unscrew the starter clutch and remove the flywheel to get to the points cover and the points themselves.
There’s probably a YouTube video assist with that.

[wristpin]

Yes, it is possible / necessary to register grass cutting equipment for use on the public roads. I quite often used to buy ex council triples , walk behind reel cutters and even the odd Westwood bearing registration plates and even “ exempt tax discs”
What may be difficult is establishing its status – new machines being first registered come with the appropriate paperwork.
First stop, the DVLA.

[wristpin]

Come on, play fair, at least post an image !!
May be an Anzani, may be a Simplicity, may be………. !

[wristpin]

Try Jon Cruse at the Hailsham Mower Centre. If he’s not got one he will make one to pattern.

[wristpin]

Probably best to mask them up and paint around them but you may be able to shift them after warming with a hot air gun.

[wristpin]

Seems to be a 6204 metric .
Good mail order service from Simply Bearings

[wristpin]

Which bearings?!!
Ransomes tended to use standard bearings on most of their machines so the answer to your question is your local bearing factor or an on-line supplier such as Simply Bearings.

[wristpin]

My guess is that your only hope is a “ wrecker” in better condition or a new old stock item gathering dust forgotten on the top shelf of a former dealers stores.
There were two or three similar machines under different brand names but whether or not they used the same components, I know not.
The Norlett Power Spade became the Flymo Power Spade and at the time the part number for the gear was 515114006 and the worm 515114005.

[wristpin]

Seen on another forum
The Government will continue to make fuel containing five per cent bioethanol available for owners of historic vehicles. It’s good news for classic car owners, who feared they would be forced to use fuel containing 10 per cent bioethanol, which can be harmful to older vehicles.

[wristpin]

No idea as to the maker but a “ smell test” will establish whether the axle has an EP oil in it or just a straight oil. Which ever, you will probably be safe with either an EP 80/90 or a straight 80/90. Unless, that is, you can identify it has worm drive. If worm drive it will need an oil specifically for that application.
Hopefully someone will identify the machine and lead the way to a specific answer.

[wristpin]

Have you got the part number for the kit?

[wristpin]

If you can find anyone who is breaking a Hayter Osprey , the 7hp cowling will be OK.

There are slight differences between the blower housing from a vertical crank and a horizontal crank engine but it will direct the cooling air and mount the recoil starter. However, to avoid future parts ID issues, note my earlier comment about erasing / modifying the Model, Type and Code Numbers embossed into it.

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