[wristpin]

I would presume that there’s a forward/ neutral /reverse shaft/lever sticking out of the hydrostatic drive unit that should be connected to a handlebar control lever.

[wristpin]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/roasbppqsxc464m/Wolseley%20clearway30inch0001.pdf?dl=0

[wristpin]

Yours looks to be quite a “modern” version with a Kubota Mag engine. Not sure about the non “aspirated” version – predictive text ?
Anyway I have some Operator / parts manuals for what was then known as the Clearway HS 30” rotary grasscutter. 1973 onwards .
If these will be of any assistance I can scan them for you.

[wristpin]

A lot easier to sort with the metal in front of one but referring to the parts illustration that I’ve already posted, try the following.
I doubt if the pin (push rod 29) is worn enough to cause your problem but remove the pressure plate (42) and push the pin right through the clutch shaft (32) taking care not to loose the ball bearing (40) – always assuming that it is not missing. If it is missing it’s probably the cause of your problem. Clean any rust and dried grease from the bore of the shaft, lubricate and reassemble the pin and ball. If the end of the pin is worn concave where it bears on the ball, just reverse it. With it all reassembled pull up and lock the handle bar clutch lever and then check that the pressure plate is releasing the sprocket(35)from the clutch body(34). If it’s not. Release the locknut (47) and screw in the adjusting grub screw (46) until it just lifts the pressure plate from the sprocket and that the sprocket is free from the body. With the handle bar clutch lever released and the pressure plate clamping onto the sprocket, there should be a little slack in the cable.
Another possible issue is that the handlebar lever locking latch is worn and although the clutch is releasing when the lever is squeezed bu hand, when your hand is released the locking latch is not holding the clutch fully disengaged.

[wristpin]

This may help. The hand written notes were probably added about 20/25 years ago which was probably about the last time that I worked on one!

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[wristpin]

Is it on a green one by any chance?

[wristpin]

Standard ring set, still available, £33.95 +vat retail
Chrome set, obsolete
+10 obsolete
+20 £42.15 +vat
+30 £36 +vat

The above are for genuine BS parts , you may be able to find pattern parts cheaper.
I can point you in the direction of a genuine standard set considerably cheaper than UK trade price but not on a public forum. If you are interested, get your private messaging sorted, or get adnin to send me your email address.

[wristpin]

Definitely says “sent” , would have expected you to have received an email Notification. Try clicking on your username or avatar, activity and then contact, messages or notification or something similar.

[wristpin]

Yes, 25th, October 1982.
80200- 80299, 1619-1891
These are the part numbers but I don’t know about availability for all of them.
Chrome rings, std for worn bores within spec in the manual. 297201
STD rings 294232- available.
+10 oversize 294224
+20 294225
+30 294226
If I can work out how to send a private message, I will give you some info that may be useful.
Edit . Message sent

[wristpin]

To give an accurate and informed answer we need the Model, Type and Code numbers from the engine. Usually stamped into the blower housing / cowling.

[wristpin]

This is for all those Saturday mornings I worked, booking in and working on a Tesco carrier bag full of parts of a recoil starter that someone had taken apart and couldn’t get back together.

To the lady instructed to get a belt or cable for hubby’s mower.
“ yes Madam, a lot of them are green”

[wristpin]

Easy-start – the ruin of many an engine !!

[wristpin]

Exhaust removal – my method. I’ve found that using this method from the outset rather than getting everything chewed up with Stillsons etc, usually to no avail.
Cut the old muffler off leaving about 1/2” of the stub proud of the block.
Take a 4” length of hacksaw blade in a handle or wrapped in masking tape, with the teeth pointing back to cut on the pull stroke.
Insert right into the stub and make a longitudinal cut through the wall of the stub down to the point where it’s just touching the threads in the block.
Take a set of Mole / Vice grips and grasp the stub at right angles / parallel to the block face and position one jaw along, but not overlapping the cut.
Squeeze the grips to collapse that section into the bore of the pipe.
Continue the squeeze and collapse until a good proportion of the pipe has pulled away from the internal wall of the block.
At this stage the grips can usually be repositioned to wrangle the collapsed stub out of the block.

[wristpin]

This may help with the fuel pipe. You will see that BS say cut off the nylon pipe, but to warm the new nylon pipe in hot water when installing.

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[wristpin]

For what it’s worth, Hayter called them Twikclips pt no 2304. A quick Google is not helpful but time spent with an old Kelley’s Directory or similar may be.

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