[vhgmcbuddy]

I use Exol Optima Racing 2 Stroke fully synthetic oil in all my 2 stroke engines. When used in my SIMAR 56a, it produces virtually no smoke. I also use it in a ratio of 20:1 instead of the recommended 16:1.
I have a number of vintage chainsaws which originally specified a mix ratio of 16:1, but I use a mix ratio of 25:1 without any issues.

I would try a fully synthetic oil in your 11C, but keep the mix ratio as originally recommended and see how you get on.

Sean

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve a Danarm Mk II chainsaw fitted with the Villiers 25A two stroke, but it is stored awaiting it’s turn in the ‘to do’ queue. I do have a user manual with parts list. If you need a copy, let me know and I’ll post a link to download it from.

Sean

[vhgmcbuddy]

Meant to say how trusty220 dealt with this carburetor in his project.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you all.

Collectively your comments will help me either fix, replace or decide to sell or break my machine for parts.

I don’t want to give in but it may be the most sensible option given that the end game is to clear out an make downsizing possible.

Busman’s stunning drawing (thank you for the time and effort) means I can delve into the possibility of having one made and yes, charlie, it will have to be a rewarded favour from a hobbyist.

I will also try the company mentioned by Norton 1952 as an option

Lastly thanks to Trusty220, I would love to read your project and see how you dealt with this car but don’t know how to find it on the site. Help?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have a Douglas SV54 engine fitted with the same model carb, so have pulled the main jet out and produced the attached drawing. I also have a Trusty with Norton Big 4 engine and Amal 225 carb. The main jet is identical to that in the Douglas carb apart from the spanner hex on the Douglas carb is 7/16″ Whitworth, where the Norton is 3/8″ Whitworth.
I think you will be very lucky to find anyone willing to make this. Even if you do, deep pockets will be required!! Expect the cost to be well into 3 figures.

Anyway, hope the drawing helps and I will keep my eyes peeled for a donor carb. Autojumbles are the best place to find them (if any take place in these challenging times!!). Online auction sites are a last resort.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

hi douglas if its any help try guypartsandservices.com on the web. talk to mike he will know about it what he does not know about all howards is,nt worth knowing.hope this helps dave.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi donald its dave from newbury just a couple of simple things try, cut out switch or button disconnect -stick plug on blow-torch warm it up see if it will fire =try float bowl sometimes they stick up after being cleaned. more jiggery would be to take off cover and spin it up with drill sometimes starting handle or rope not enough swing if motor rebuilt.not far away from smoke by the looks of it cheers dave.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Tried Burlen, they say they have no information on agricultural carburetors and passed me on to a vintage motor cycle parts supplier who recommend I contact Burlen who did have a parts diagram but no dimensions.

I tried to buy a carburetor on the well known auction site we all love, I simply doubled the sale price and still came second. I asked the seller to unscrew the jet which looked and was loose and he added a picture of it.

I asked if he could measure the overall length and a bit in the middle without a thread before he sent it to the winner and he said I should have bought it. As I explained, I tried but was out id in the closing seconds of the sale.

Back at square one..

Does anybody want my Howard GEM, as a none runner? I would sooner get it going but need the jet measurements. I still might not get one made even with the info I need

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve checked and re-checked the timing. Pretty sure it’s not that.
I’d be really interested to hear from someone who has used an Allen successfully for this kind of work.

Iain

[vhgmcbuddy]

Finally got a spark after rotating the engine with a drill. Plug out but earthed. Got a tiny glow in my neon tester at first, kept going and the spark got bigger until it was clearly visible at the plug. Engine started after with little problem. I read about this method on the web, not sure how it works but it did the trick for me!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I like the idea of re-using the head gasket. Disappointingly a previous owner has “attacked” the lower ring gasket with a screwdriver, I guess trying to release the gasket, but all he has done is nearly totally knacker the edge of it. I am hoping to refit the ring gasket with the aid of the blue silicone sealer. It is fascinately to understand how the machine has been maintained over its 75 year life – different sized bolts and nuts. I now know it is a British Junior engine. It seems very similar to the JAP engine.
Regards Mike G
PS Meetens could not help with a replacement head gaskets, but they gave me excellent advice as to how to progress with my project.
PPS We live in the middle of France, so trying to get imperial stuff is a bit of a challenge.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The number of the HG is G5051 and the engine number 6185. Does this help?

Regards Mike G

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi All, Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. I will try the plug and valve clearance on the 5000. Unfortunately the tine shaft seals have gone on the 3hp so I now have two machines that require new seals. I will have to dive in and try to identify / measure the seal once removed. Unless….. any ideas on the oil seal size required so I can order in advance?

Thanks in advance

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for yours in-depth response.
I was literally on the edge trying to find out at least the brand for parts.
Thanks again, I really appreciate it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

look on the engine for serial number, you can date the machine by the number.

you can anneal the original copper head gasket if you still have it, get a blow torch, heat until cherry red all over then place in a bucket of cold water to re soften.

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