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Viewing 15 posts - 886 through 900 (of 8,814 total)
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  • #38705
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    The engine is an Atco-Jap 4 stroke 600 cc.Which had a mechanical oil pump

    Interesting to see 4-stroke with an oil compartment in the fuel tank, but no sign of a return pipe, so was it a total loss system requiring regular replenishment?
    Also interesting that the later post war wide cut machines were 28 and 34” . I wonder what the thinking was to drop the 36” machine when all the opposition still offered one of that width?

    #38692
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hello

    Thanks for that Charlie. I need info on the engine in this model. Think mine may be seized as when I took off the head there was a small piece of what looked like a broken ring on top of the cylinder. Is it a Jap engine. Anyone selling or making the springs in the picture. Where can I get gaskets for the engine and body?

    Regards

    John

    Attachments:
    #38677
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hi
    What you have there is a pre war Atco, your model was made from 1939, there was three sizes in the range, 24 inch, 30 inch and 36 inch machines, the range was actually called the Atco Heavyweight range
    They were designed for extensive areas of grass on large estates, cricket, football pitches and playing fields. Yours had the capability of cutting up to 1 acre per hour.
    The engine is an Atco-Jap 4 stroke 600 cc.Which had a mechanical oil pump, Amal carb and a Wico magneto, and a fan cowl cooling system. The rear roller is split into three, which has a full differential drive for easy turning.
    The cutting cylinder should be six bladed, and there is a cutter release which enables the machine to run without the cutting cylinder engaging so the machine can be used to roll only.
    The front rollers should be in 5 sections made of cast iron, very heavy. As can be seen in the picture which is from the Atco 1939 brochure, the grass box sits within a frame so that when emptying, it tips forward.
    The finish on this range of machines included chromium plating on the exhaust pipe, handles and controls.
    Hope this helps

    Attachments:
    #38670
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Try George at Villiers Parts. Most Amal carbs have a small ID number stamped into the body somewhere, often where the body clamps to the manifold. If you are emailing him send him a decent image of your carb.

    #38668
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hello

    Picture of mine

    John

    Attachments:
    #38662
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hi Collin
    Just been looking at the Gamage’s roller, OK Gamage’s sold this roller with their name on it, like a lot of Ironmongers did, Allan is quite right T Greens of Leeds did make many garden rollers under their own name and others, the termination for this type of implement selling is and was called catalogue machines.
    However in this case, Green’s did not make rollers for Gamage. Infact there was a society which evolved within all the different manufacturers of garden rollers.
    It was Qualcast of Derby who made the Gamage roller, now with the history laid to one side, let me try and sort your problem out!
    The reason why your roller is ceased, at some point it has been left outside in the elements, where water has got into the journals where the axle is, now what you cannot see from looking at it at the moment is what is inside. Your roller has two castings that you can see, the idea is as you turn a corner, they should independently rotate different ways on that axle, where they will be ceased is in the middle, as well as slightly on each end.
    What you do. First remove the handle from the two bolts on either side. Then you need to make a cradle on the ground of say two concrete blocks of at least 6 inches high, place a timber plank on top (to cushion) then place the roller on its side on top so the axle is clear of the ground.
    Now the axle on the top can be worked on, there are many ways to do this, but to help free the journal pour diesel around the axle and leave for a couple of days, What I have done in the past is to heat up the side axle bracket with oxygen and propane, there is a bolt which fixes it to the axle which needs removing, with heat that then can be removed, which will open up your way to the journal, if you need to add pressure or shock by using a hammer only do it by hitting the axle and only then with a piece of wood between your hammer and the axle. do not hit the casting! A couple of days should free it, then once you get the axle out keep it well greased on replacing it. – best of luck.
    Regards
    Andrew

    #38661
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Probably 10am, usually is. Best to go in the morning. I don’t think they charge for spectators but most people make a donation, it’s run in aid of charity.

    #38659
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Should be there in the playpen!

    #38653
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hello Alan,

    If you read the post I sent to Charlie it was meant for you regarding garden roller circa 1924.

    Kind regards Colin

    #38652
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hello Charlie,

    looked up Gamage garden rollers on the internet and found a picture of one just like mine by the Royal Collection Trust with the headline garden roller 1924 Queen Mary’s Dolls House Windsor whatever that means, and concluded my roller was from that circa.

    Kind regards

    Colin

    #38647
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    If my suspicions are correct you are known as Moorcroftman and the grass box you are having problems with are for a Ransomes Ajax!
    Please be aware metal sheeting which this box is made from can age harden, so where possible heat should be applied first, this can be with a simple blow torch or if your workshop is better equipped a oxy-acetylene kit with a rosebud torch. When warmed you can use the round end of a ball pain hammer, and place the box on anything hard, as long as its the same shape as your finished box. OR use a panel beaters maul behind. Hitting it can stretch the metal so be careful, if a crack appears, its best to braze the area, as welding could do more damage if heavy handed by burning a hole. If however you find it too difficult, then look for a company that does ducting work, ask them nicely or offer them a drink!
    After writing this I could do with a drink as well!!!
    Kind regards
    Andrew

    #38645
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Yes it appears you are struggling, then lets try another way, which mower did your grass box come from? What material is it made from where the dents are?

    In addition to the above, why not post the name of your post town, as there may be someone in your area who can offer hands on help.

    #38644
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Yes it appears you are struggling, then lets try another way, which mower did your grass box come from? What material is it made from where the dents are?
    Just trying to help
    Regards
    Andrew

    #38643
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hey Charlie

    Thanks for the information, I tried the companies house route but strangely nothing listed there.
    I will try the other places you mentioned & see if anything turns up there.
    It would appear that the company was not in business very long by the looks of things.

    Regards

    Martin1972

    #38638
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Will do when I can get someone to show me how to do it from my phone. Not having any success

    David

Viewing 15 posts - 886 through 900 (of 8,814 total)