[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi I have a M1 rotorvator with a Briggs engine starts and runs fine if you put petrol in the carberetta but it won’t start without putting it in???

[vhgmcbuddy]

Orrrrr…..
make shaft bar the spline?
and we find a spline person ?

let me see what this spline drives and if I can do without it …..

[vhgmcbuddy]

Understood and thanks for looking. I did think how on earth is that made …..

I will not stop my search and will report when I find if it can be done and costs but I am sure it is a mad price at a machine shop and only possible with a mate who is bored and has a lathe type of job.

thanks J

[vhgmcbuddy]

pic 4 is a diagram of shaft
pic 3 is how it sits
pic 2 is shaft removed
pic 1 is shaft
pic 5 is busted end of shaft

[vhgmcbuddy]

Right I have some details for you to chew on and see if this is possible.
An issue is that on one end it is spline. Other than that it is just a bar with a groove down middle (2 of at 180deg)

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Right let me dress in rags and get the old transaxle apart. Stats to follow…

be great to at least know it is possible on paper.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I of course think if you can ….. you must try ………
It might be a project ?
It seems to be a 8″ long bar ? and cogs slipped onto it.
I am yet to look further at it as i got another.

I did put a post on here for my old transaxle but i cant find it.

I attach some pics and have the old transaxle still.
I can send details if you request.
Be great to at least know if on paper you could do it ?

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I did once know about all the threads but after a few years all forgotten.

Hopefully it will fit …..
will inform .

[vhgmcbuddy]

What a site this is! Us people where mowers have a name and have become part of the family couldn’t survive without em.
My last post was when I bust the transaxle on this mower. Due to the help on this site I / we diagnosed it and had to get a second hand one.

I still think if it goes again I am gonna have to; like for spitfire parts, get one made. Do we have a resident obsessional engineer on the site who can make drive shafts …..
madly I used to live next door to a guy who could in his garage ! alas he looks down us now.

thanks for help all.
concerns me however when no parts become available !

[vhgmcbuddy]

Your right Charlie the drive is 13 teeth and the rotor is 26 teeth. 2:1 reduction.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks… I shouldn’t have been so hasty ordering as I have this one from amazon. hate using amazon as it didnt truly say where it was coming from and full price when searched. prefer ebay. damn.
But whatever my oldish 10/30 now needs a mechanics care
to keep it going. Not as old as some on here I’m sure but hell is it a ideal mower for a medium sized garden.

q)I have been putting in 5/30 semi synth but feel
I should be putting in sae 30 non multigrade stuff.

What’s the thoughts on oil for above 5deg c mowing ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Checked thread and ordered
a oregon oil drain valve.

I am ok on metric threads but the older ones … I am clueless.

I measured drain bolt as m18*1.5 (roughly as I couldn’t take it fully out)

imperial (or whatever it’s called) it looked like 3/8″

so I ordered
3/8″-18 NPTF (National Pipe Taper Fuel) thread which is standard for these valves.

I assume the 18 means mm.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Superb idea. I never new such things as oil drain valves were even available.

I do have a good engine oil pump that sucks it out but my old mower deserves a good clean out…..

I’ll check the size and thread today. I dont suppose you can recommend a good oil drain valve ? … must be
old imperial thread on a Briggs and Stratton

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi Stuart
Do you still have that Gardenmaster attachment

[vhgmcbuddy]

The part in the diagram looks like a proper rotor arm and will just fit straight on to the main drive, where on this mag it is a round cog type rotor and this is where I can’t figure out how to fix the rotor back so the timing is true.

if I could find any witness arrows or mark to line up with the main drive, I don’t know if I am explaining this too clearly

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