[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the warm welcome. Although I don’t think I can come up with any technical information that would help anyone, it may be possible for me to get hold of more of the history of the machines and manufacturers if anyone is interested.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Although I am unsure of when manufacture started. I am almost sure that all of the original Colebys post 1940’s were red and yellow in colour. Those manufactured previously may have been blue. Those after were probably painted different colours by their owners.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes Allan it would fit but is of a slightly different design I wonder if anyone has any Mayfield literature that shows a plough like this.

[vhgmcbuddy]

thats great news pete, well done. have pm’d you

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie,there’s no plate someone must have wanted the brass. Thanks anyway.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Alan I’ll have a look

[vhgmcbuddy]

Got the bonsor moving under power yesterday, gearbox is not great but reverse and first are ok. Now need to sort the brakes as they are somewhat non existent.

Hope the attached video works ok.

Pete

Attachments:

1. Bonsor-1st-run.mp4

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have one that appears to be red and yellow in colour and I believe that was the colour scheme used predominantly. I can see if I can find out if other colours were used. Hope that helps.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi all
i have at last got my sadly unwanted machines up on a certain website so should soon have enough room to start work on the coleby will post off entry form tomorrow at last!! it has been on of those years! looking forward to seeing everyone again!
one question– is the camping area close to the exibit area? as i have a collection of hand tools, machines and age related bits and pieces that are best shown on a table
pete

[vhgmcbuddy]

ANy suggestions where I might get a clutch/gearbox assembly for a bonder, refurbed or repaired?

pete

[vhgmcbuddy]

I had one problem with the power driven Landmaster, Its exhaust system! The Muffler is quite a small diameter. Unfortunately the replacement ordered was too big. After a lot of searching I managed to find the correct size Muffler, but it had a different screw thread on it. After consulting with my local Unimaster, a solution was found. It was to drill out the 4 spot welds and remove the incorrect threaded collar. Take a 1/2″ pipe fitting and cut to length, machine the end to fit the muffler and puddle weld the correct threaded collar to the muffler. Also had to remake the “Can” which enables the exhaust to vent beneath the deck.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie, that’s what attracted me to it, something different, unusual shape, not Orange, nor Green!

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi chris is it a screw type splitter your making on a bench if so it will need a reduction box as it will run to quick an you will get nowere fast they are not for the faint hearted as i no by trial an error i made one with a 5hp honda engine far to quick it would break your arm before you can say [–it] but a reduction box engine works fine they split for fun but if logs are still green it will just keep boreing an wont spilt also a jockey wheel on the belts for tension so they can be released quickley an a very important cut off switch very close to hand once made they are far better than a hydraulic one me thinks

[vhgmcbuddy]

As far as I remember when you have split the engine from the gearbox and undone the set bolts, it came off with a three leg puller, as far as the wheels are concerned i know a man who used Land rover wheels and 750×16 tyres, no need to weld the centres on, they were bolted on to the wheels originaly, the land rover wheels and tyres are cheap as chips on that well known auction site we are not supposed to mention! or there will be plenty at your local scrap yard. best of luck.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The splitter I am building is an augur type and will be belt driven using the atom as the power source.
C

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