[vhgmcbuddy]

No, I don’t like it either, but I’ve used it before by making it into sheets (glass/clingfilm/silicone sandwitch, separated/spaced by washers) which at least mekes it into gasket and not stuff that bungs up oilways.

I’ll look out for some Flexoid. I might have some steam gasget at another place but I’ll have to go looking.

Again FWIW and for the record: gasket material is 1mm thick measured by vernier calipers.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Proper gasket material, no stuff in a tube – neutral or otherwise!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Engine. Villiers Lightweight – probably the 150 cc version, but other than the capacity ( bore diameter)the same as the 125cc. Hope that it’s not full of water !

[vhgmcbuddy]

I guess they could be I can’t see them through the slot in the side of the tube I didn’t let the plunger drop all the way into the tube because I won’t be able to get hold of them to get them out again. I will have a look with my camera on a stick thingy to see if they are as you suggested just stuck down. It does seem odd to have removed both and then put it back together again. I will keep you posted
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi it’s Will I have a suspicion that the springs may have been removed at some point. Both sides look the same and both plungers have their grooved ends. Not sure why they would be removed but now I can see the diagram and apart from the springs everything else is present and intact. I will see if it’s possible to get hold of a couple of new springs.
Thanks for your help and advice again it’s much appreciated
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

“JB weld”!! That’s what I was looking for, had seen it mentioned, but brain ft made me think “Chemical Matal” which I had some of. Argh! Will keep you informed.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi it’s Will I have used JB weld to glue clutch shoe linings back on for my brushcutter also used it on a Hayter Osprey drive clutch both with good results. I tend to give the metal a rough up to give the glue something to grip to. Fingers crossed for you.
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi it’s Will thank you for your reply the belt tensioner is interesting I tried it with the tensioner on the bottom run thinking it was set up wrong but it seemed to slip a lot when I tried it so I will return it back to the top position it makes sense that you don’t want the tensioner on the pulling side of the belt. It reminds me of my days on tracked diggers you always travel with the drive sprockets at the back to keep tension on the bottom of the track otherwise you get bunchimg on the bottom which can end up with a thrown track. Ilike the walking stick term is there a seperate plunger between the spring and the long centre rod? I removed the latch and the rod . When I look through the slot it looks like either the top of a plunger or the bottom of the tube although if its the bottom there must be a false bottom as its almost in line with the bottom of the slot not the end of the tube. Hope that makes sense. Yes not much more to do apart from a couple of seized reel adjusters and a new bush on the mid mower belt tensioner. I look forward to using it once we get some grass to cut rather than spreading dead grass and dust.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well. Write-up, FWIW. In case it’s useful.

Took the clutch apart, using the opportunity to re-pack the bearings with grease.

I scraped off the outer surface of the friction material, taking care, it’s probably fragile. I also cleaned the cast iron outer cone, and the inside surface if the friction material, scraping gluey residue off, and the light alloy inner cone, dressing it lightly and evenly with a flat file.

It seemed a good idea to put the chemical metal on the alloy inner cone, so I did that, as it was easier than putting it on the friction material, wiping on a thin layer with a plastic spreader, then using a coarse hacksaw blade as a notched spreader to make it an even depth all ’round.

After that, I put the assembly into a press and applied light pressure until the chemical metal began to squeeze out.

Tomorrow I’ll get it out and fit it It will be interesting to see what happens if I can get the thing started. This is the machine with points, which is in rather better condition than the other one.

The thought occurred that it may have been better to use “Gun Gum”, use a couple of bits of flat bar with holes for a bolt through the middle, and a couple of spacer blocks to allow the cast iron and alloy to be pulled up, then when all’s ready, stick it in the oven on “low” for an hour or so before turning it up to 200C for another hour.

We shall see.

Quiet in here…

[vhgmcbuddy]

Here it is. As you can see (or not!) it’s v faded.
Thank you. Peter

Attachments:

1. 
2. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks, I’ll give it another go. AS

[vhgmcbuddy]

How have you got on with this operation?

[vhgmcbuddy]

If Howards recommended gl4 then that is what you should use, which is more suitable for spur gears and the like
, gl5 id for diff’s, nothing to do with viscosity, also ep oils should never be used in gearboxes which have phosphor-bronze bushes as these will get eaten away by the ep, also gl5 has twice the amount of additives that will eat brass, copper and p/b.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for the pointer. I have two of these machines, one that I can remember being bought new, in the mid-’70s, one of which I was given, used, probably from North Cornwall!.

The former has bolts, which I managed to get out… eventually. The latter has studs.

Ho hum. I have purchased a bag of 10 5/16 x 1 3/4 BZP “grade 5” (8.8 equiv) bolts for £3.18 from a local supplier of fastners, so they will go in this one, with some anti-seize; I will withdraw them after a while and check to see what’s happened.

I bet the other rotavator’s studs are stuck fast too.

[vhgmcbuddy]

With ref to understanding how an electronic ign system works if you go into google and ask what is inside or how an electronic ign module works there are some very good videos of these, just remember without magnets and electricity humans would be in deep trouble, and ask yourself one other question as you know metal is attracted to magnets and the earth has a magnetic field, but we are not made of metal so why do we stick to the earth.

[Author]

Posts