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  • #13162
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Thanks Charlie

    #13157
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Still not seen my April copy yet Alan…

    #13142
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Today i found my manual in Swedish for Simar rototillers. I attach some photos. To my surprise the manual not only give the model 56A and 56E but also model 56AE. Most specifications are the same for the three “models” but 56E and AE should have 3,5 kg oil in the gear box and 56A 4,5 kg. The E and AE have a wico magneto 56A not. The fuel filter is in the fuel tap together with the glass knob on model E and AE and in the fuel hose in A. The only difference I can find between E and AE are different jets for the carburettor. The E should have 70, 65 & 40 for first hours drive, normal & idling AE 75, 70 & 40.

    Perhaps it interest some that SIMAR 35 also was sold in Sweden in a type AE with the only difference fron 35A and C that it had a AMAL carburettor and should have less oil in the gear box (3 kg instead for 3,5).

    /Per

    Attachments:
    #13140
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    I also found this diagram save with my manuals.

    Attachments:
    #13139
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hi. Sent a manual to your email address, Hope it helps.

    #13138
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Before you lay out for a new coil there is one thing worth trying. Remove the coil and make sure that the face of the two supporting pillars is clean and free from corrosion and the same for the area on the coil armature (laminations) that sits on the pillars. then reinstall the coil with the necessary 10-14 thou air gap between it and the flywheel.
    Best way to set the air gap is to turn the flywheel so that the magnet is at six o’clock, refit the coil pulled as far from the flywheel as it will go and tighten one retaining screw, leave the other just loose. Rotate the flywheel so that the magnet is under the coil, insert your non magnetic air gap gauge (double thickness of old micro fiche or brown luggage label!) between the coil and flywheel and slacken the screw. The magnet will pull the coil down onto the gauge. Tighten both screws and rotate the flywheel to extract the gauge.
    Note that the coil must be installed so that the flywheel magnet rotating in a clockwise direction passes the “lump” of the magnetron module first. Genuine Briggs coils are marked inside or outside (can’t remember which!!)
    Then do the spark test again and if no spark feel safe to spend forty quid!

    #13137
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    snap….i have just got a trusty tractor 2 gems 1 with a BJ and the newer one with a jap….and a 350
    not had time to go thruw them to much as yet…350 runs..the trusty jap5 has a spark

    #13135
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    No point it getting it tested as they will (or should) only tell you what we have already stated (if it don’t spark with the stop wire removed the coil is dead).

    #13134
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Thank you all it a magnestron and ive also found a safety switch at the blade drive so its work in progress when the rain stops. Can you get the ignition coil off the engine tested at a briggs and stratton agent Regards Rob

    #13133
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    there doesn’t seem to be any carbon on them the piston is grazed on one side its lookin like the crank is broke now lol if I didn’t hav bad luck I don’t think id hav any at all not to worry see wot misfortune tomorrow brings

    #13129
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    The coil under the flywheel will be the battery charging coil for an electric start machine and does not affect the ignition but if its a points ignition engine there will be a circular “tin” cover within the inner circumference of that coil with the crankshaft protruding in its centre. Within that cover will be contact breaker points and a condenser. the points may need to be cleaned.
    If no points, you have an engine with Magnetron electronic ignition which is all contained within the external ignition coil. With the kill wire removed from the coil (eliminates the effect of any safety switches) and the engine rotated at more than 350 rpm you should get a spark off the end of the plug lead that will jump 1/4″. No spark probably indicates a failed coil.
    Be aware that on an electric start machine a faulty ignition switch can send battery voltage down the kill wire and into the coil, killing it for good!

    #13128
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Presuming the engine is equipped with the “Magnetron” ignition coil simply remove the thin,black ignition ground wire (stop wire) from the coil and try again.If it now sparks then you have a safety switch problem.If it still don’t spark then a new coil is required.

    #13126
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Tried that, they wouldn’t disclose any customer details.

    Thanks Dave, I’ll give you a call.

    #13125
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    thanks for info but upon further inspection found the rings seized as well so am just concidering my options at the minute

    #13122
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hi

    Is the tractor still available I would be interested if it is?

    Thanks Richard

Viewing 15 posts - 5,236 through 5,250 (of 8,814 total)