[vhgmcbuddy]

Made further progress today in ID’ing the ride on mower, recon i have a T1200 chassis with a swapped out motor. Reason being is its the only 1983/1984 part list that has the forward raking deck adjuster on the front.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hopefully this you can now see the picture

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I think your wasting your time trying to covert an old engine

I have a kohler gem & thats hard to start sometimes. Easy with the pull start on the front though

[vhgmcbuddy]

Really appreciate the assistance, now i can start part hunting. Latest updates…

Got the engine to run today and discovered after an engine flush that the crank shaft oil seal (£3.50) is leaking like crazy.. so a complete engine removal and replacement (4 hours work). I’ve disassembled and reassembled the brake today also.

There are few places in North Kent that do Soda Blasting, I’ll let you know how things turn out.
Planning on using Bonda antirust primer paint-on and then High fill Anti rust primer on top with a Black satin colour coat. Recon this will will be my cheaper alternative to powder coat of the arches (which will run me about £150), for the same process except powder coat vs black paint. After all she (Kids christened her “mini mo”) is nothing to enter any competitions.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi got any finished photos yet?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I would try slackening the tension right off on the left hand track and see if that makes any difference. If the tracks have been rebuilt with new rubbers etc it may be that you have what was the right hand track on the left hand side which may be running tight on worn drive wheels. If you take it for a long drive around a field it may settle in ,if not try swapping the tracks. another thought is that you may have the track reversed from original which would mean the left track is driving on a less worn side of the track driving teeth try removing the left track and rotate it. Clearly something on the left side is running tight causing the diff. to power the left track. If you do end up removing both tracks when you have the machine securely jacked and propped, try starting the engine and engaging gear and check that both drive wheels rotate together, this will eliminate a fault in the hub/final drive bearings.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Very good restoration. JB Weld is lovely stuff & I have used it many times

[vhgmcbuddy]

I looked on quite a few forums and it was the one plastic metal that was allways recommended. Now that it’s been rubbed down and painted it almost invisible.

[vhgmcbuddy]

John Cruse has no BSA Ignition parts left in stock.

Have now decided the engine will cost far more than it’s worth to overhaul and will probably sell it as spares.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi just in case you are interested I have a good rear end from gearbox and bars plus other bits if you are interested from failed project had been left for over 40 years in wood and was in very bad way when I first got covered in vegetation and rusted out wheels , the engine was completely us,. Mac

[vhgmcbuddy]

The area of this gem that seemed to of suffered the worst corrosion was the main frame. This was wire brushed, treated in rust killer and built back up with weld, then ground back and filled. I also painted the fuel tank and the oil filter housing at the same time. For some reason the fuel tank has the outlets on the wrong side meaning it has to be fitted back to front, was this intentional or a covk up at the factory that due to shortages of materials was sent out anyway?

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Once the paint had dried for a few days I put the wheels on, blacked the securing plates and overhauled the air filter.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Some photos of the painting

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[vhgmcbuddy]

The engine is quite awkward to fit and line everything up on your own, I’m just very grateful that I’ve got a forklift to assist. Once in place I was then able to repair the broken flange. As cast is very difficult to successfully weld I used a plastic metal called j-b weld. Finally after all this I was able to put the first coat of paint on. For the first time in a month it felt like I was actually making some progress.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

3.00-8 cleated rotavator tyres are still available from Tyre-Rite of Liskeard, Cornwall (https://www.allterraintyres.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1087_1241_1255&products_id=5115). They also have a shop on that well known auction site.

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