[vhgmcbuddy]

Ivan

Good buys mate, the edger is an Andrews P.E.T. (Petrol Edge Trimmer) I have copied the small brochure I have and it will be in the post to you on Monday

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks wristpin. I have just looked on Briggsbits site again and noticed that a tool very similar to yours is still available. It would seem I should have ordered both tools; one to dismantle and one to put it back together again !

As I’ve managed to dismantle them I won’t be needing one straight away but, will certainly add one to my tool-kit in due course.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Try Paul Coles? I think he is a member but not sure what name he goes by, but does have a Facebook page called The Clifford Register

[vhgmcbuddy]

My tool was made by KD Tools and came from the US but I have seen them in various UK catalogues but not lately. An old screwdriver could easily be modified with a bend on the end ground into a hook. The other end with the cut out to lift and lever the bottom retainer may not be so easy to reproduce but once you have the keyhole lined up a screwdriver will push it off.
The other tool beside it in my last post, is much used and is a Trcnamotor/Aspera/Tecumseh tool – no longer available but fairly easy to make.

KD Tool

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks, that’s really helpful. No wonder I was getting so frustrated !

Is your “hooky” thing a B&S item or one you’ve made up yourself ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you – This is starting to make sense and yes wristpin, I did mean crankshaft! (I was still in Trusty mode – working on both at the moment). Thanks for the link.
Stuart, your explanation is very clear. I did have a fiddle before reading your post and managed to get some sort of spark, so must be getting close. I will now re-examine the settings to make sure I got it right.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The attached may be of assistance but it doesn’t mention arrows. You mention “countershaft” should that be crankshaft? Quite a lot of Villiers engines that I’ve seen have a small notch in the flywheel end of the crank which, when at 12 o’clock coincides with top dead centre. You may find that the arrow on your flywheel, when lined up with the one on the backplate and the piston at TDC, is the position at which the points should just start to open. Please note the use of may!
Personally I like to set the timing from basic principles ie setting the piston to the specified distance before TDC and the flywheel to just start to open the points. If you do this and then look at the relative positions of the arrows all may become clear!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sk6uyq6i5e700xg/Villiers%20Mk25%20service%20and%20repair0001.pdf?dl=0

[vhgmcbuddy]

I seldom attempt to use the BS tool for dismantling, only for reassembling. As has been said in another reply,the trick for dismantling is to use a “hooky thing” to rotate the key hole retainer so that the wide part of the key hole is towards you so that an upward and forward thrust disengages it from the valve stem.
In the attached pic of my collection of small engine valve tools the “hooky thing” is to the left within the big spring compressor.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Any suggestions on how to use it when dismantling would be appreciated. It seems a rather big tool to fit easily in the comparatively small valve chest and between the coils of the springs.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I agree with wristpin.The B and S valve spring compressor is an excellent and easy tool to use but I have done many hundreds of valves over the years using said tool.I have also used it on other manufacturers valves springs that it was never designed to compress !
Most times there is no need to use the tool when removing the key hole retainers as a screwdriver placed underneath and then pushed up will usually free it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

First set the points gap to 012″-015″.Then loosen the flywheel on the crankshaft.Position the piston at TDC (the mark on the very end of the crankshaft will be at 12 o clock when piston is at TDC).Turn the flywheel so that its mark / arrow is opposite the mark on the alloy backplate.When turning the flywheel and also when retightening it the crankshaft must NOT move.With this done the timing will be set at 5/32″ BTDC.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Was letting off steam really. I can see how the compressor would work well in re-assembling. My issue is in dismantling. You have to insert the compressor between the collar and the spring and close enough to the top of the spring in order to compress the spring sufficiently to remove the collar. Problem is the gap between the coils is very small and it is very difficult to get the retainers in.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Appreciate all the help. Though I used to tinker with motorbikes, I’m only just getting back into such things after many years.
Does anyone want to talk me through setting the timing and points on a villiers mk25 c? (It’s on a clifford mk1 rotavator)
There is an arrow on the flywheel, one on the back plate (at about 11 o clock) and one at the end of the countershaft. In my research I seem to be getting conflicting ideas as to what lines up with what!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I 100% endorse the need for proper coil testing. Stressing the coil with a proper tester will soon show up internal breakdowns of insulation and frequently on Villiers engines. ” leakage” between the HT termination of the coil and the magneto backplate; so best to test the magneto as an assembly and not just the coil. If a test of the mag gives a negative result it is then worth doing a separate test of the condenser. This can be done in situ but it is necessary to separate the condenser wire from the coil primary wire and Make sure that the points are either open or disconnected.

[vhgmcbuddy]

the 700 is now home and dry.A little on the heavy side. It does have a clutch cable fitted but is a universal one,ok for now.It has a new ignition system fitted so starting easy (relatively). Your wheels do interest me but no rush in hospital next week for yet another cardioversion “look one up on you-tube great fun”. Thank’s for all your help and advice will post some pictures soon..

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