[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for your reply – if I need a coil, where would I get one? the ones I have seen on ebay look nothing like what is fitted, the one on my engine is an aluminium thing.

Laine

[vhgmcbuddy]

Was the reason it was put away for all that time because of its ignition “problem” ?.If so then a new coil is required.Before you buy one though just remove the thin cut out / ground wire on the coil terminal and try again.If still no spark (and you are sure that the spark plug,HT cap and HT cable are all ok) then a new or replacement coil is the answer.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes 1966.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie. Sorry I have been so long in replying. I had to get an engineer to remove the hub assembly’s for me as I didn’t have a puller man enough to remove them. I have split the gear case and found the input shaft bearings are badly worn. The clutch is covered in oil and there is some light corrosion damage. I am having a new clutch plate made at present and am sourcing 2 new shaft bearings(sealed) and a new spigot bearing. I am concentrating on one component at a time and will start with input shaft and clutch. I hope you don’t mind a few questions!!

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[vhgmcbuddy]

The code on the engine starts with 66 so I’m guessing that means 1966 had a tinker today and got it running 👍🏼 Are these rare at all? I can’t seem to find anything on internet about them.

[vhgmcbuddy]

If the engine is a Briggs and Stratton and its the original one then the first two numbers of the CODE number stamped on the cowling will give you the engines year of manufacture.Generally speaking the machine will also date to the same year (or the following year).

[vhgmcbuddy]

This is it

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[vhgmcbuddy]

They will come off if you keep at it.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

You’ll probably have to make one. What you need is a bit of thick flat plate( or angle will do) with 3 holes drilled in it. Weld a nut on the centre one so you can thread a bolt in to push on the end of the crank, the get 2 bolts the same thread as is tapped in the flywheel, I can’t find my book at the moment so can’t find what the thread is but do you know anyone with a set of thread gauges?
When the tension is on you may have to whack the centre bolt to shock the flywheel off the taper.

[vhgmcbuddy]

A little tip I was told many years ago by a retired Ransomes factory manager is pre-war MG’s have a brass ID plate but during / after WW2 they will be steel. This was because Ransomes were not permitted to use brass as it was required for ammunition manufacture.

[vhgmcbuddy]

No joy, tried that aswell as many others. its really on the crankshaft. can someone link me to the correct type puller please?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Expeatfarmer I have found a date on the crown wheel , it’s marked 36 but I need to look closer. Do you now if it gives a precise date , do you have your number as a reference.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have a Mk 1 gearbox that you can have for a nominal price
PM me and I live on the Sheffield/Chesterfirield border

[vhgmcbuddy]

Will give it a go now, thank you S1.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Now you’ve removed the nut, I find the easiest way to remove the flywheel is to undo the 6 nuts holding the Orange airshroud in place on the opposite side of the engine and then give the shroud a couple of clonks with a soft hammer. Maybe not the correct way but very effective.

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