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Viewing 15 posts - 241 through 255 (of 301 total)
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  • #4438
    darmic1
    Participant

    Picked up the new bearings too, cleaned the bearing carriers. Took the clutch apart, cleaned and reassembled it.

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    #4435
    darmic1
    Participant

    Been busy this evening. The engine is back together, timing set, points adjusted……. and it runs!!! A little squirt of 2 stroke into the inlet, a quick spin of the flywheel and away it went first time.

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    #4391
    darmic1
    Participant

    Thanks guys, great advice as usual! Added bonus of Clive’s story about his mower. Brilliant!

    #4390
    darmic1
    Participant

    Hi Steve, some info about the machine, ie model: Series 1,2,3 etc. Engine: BJ, JAP etc would help to diagnose the problem. It could as you say be the main output shaft, this would mean the gearbox needed stripping and overhauling. It could equally be the clutch plate, as the plate has holes, into which locating dowls on the flywheel fit to take the drive. If that has broken up, then the engine would need to be removed. You could check the fault by removing spark plug if petrol, putting it into gear and turning the start handle. If the machine moves, I would say its the clutch plate. If no movement, I would say the main output shaft. If neither proves conclusive it could just be the starter dog failed. Hope this helps

    #4372
    darmic1
    Participant

    I dont know, bought the mower off the bay, so history unknown? I do remember having similar fun with the points on the Mk15 of the Bantam. If anyone has a manual for this engine and the mower, I would be extremely grateful!

    #4337
    darmic1
    Participant

    Well, its been confirmed…….. I was not thinking clearly earlier. I thought that if I turned the back plate through 180 degrees, that the flywheel would no longer be covering the points. Hmmmm, a definate blonde moment. The whole assembly moves doesn’t it, Its exactly the same, just opposite where it was! However, its not all bad news, The coil is now at the top left, where almost every picture shows it to be. The HT lead now exits opposite side to the exhaust, and not under it. I think its right now, anyone confirm this for me please?

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    #4296
    darmic1
    Participant

    The method for setting timing does state, 1/8″ before tdc, as the arrows are just a guide. Re the difficulty getting to the points, have found several pictures showing the back plate turned through 180º, ie with the coil to the top left. Not as mine was when stripped down. Am wondering if this will have much of an effect on it, as the whole assembly will be turned through 180º. It will certainly make setting the points easier!

    #4285
    darmic1
    Participant

    The new parts arrived from Meetens today, so the carb is now back together.

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    #4282
    darmic1
    Participant

    Got the first coat of Smoothrite on the Barrel too……

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    #4279
    darmic1
    Participant

    Put the flywheel back on to adjust the points, and after lining up the 2 arrows, discovered that it might be a bit of a faf to adjust the points and refit the points cover. The flywheel obscures the points completely!

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    #4275
    darmic1
    Participant

    Spent an hour in the garage this evening. The crankcase is all back together with the new gasket.

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    #4274
    darmic1
    Participant

    Have now joined the old lawnmower club, so will see if they know if there is a matching colour with BS or RAL codes for my powder coater……

    #4271
    darmic1
    Participant

    My Mk15 on the Bantam has the same Governor set up…… no linkage from the actual carb. The Governor butterfly is fitted in the inlet and is operated by the ‘draw’ of the piston on the downward strokes. Ive got a photo, just need to find it……

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    #4255
    darmic1
    Participant

    Hi John, yes I saw that. I wondered if the code refered to a BS or RAL name or number, as the main parts of the mower will be powder coated. Only the tank and engine will be painted.

    #4248
    darmic1
    Participant

    Afternoon folks……. The trip to the Powder coaters has thrown up a question regarding the colour. We had both the BS and RAL colour swatches, but were unable to find a good match. Did Atco have their own colour mixed or did they use something already available? The closest we could find was a Mid Brunswick Green. The machine has been painted at some point in its life and I would like to get this back to the original colour. Picture 8 on page 1 shows the original colour behind the chain case and on the inside. The colour is more Olive green than the later darker, greener, green! Any ideas???

Viewing 15 posts - 241 through 255 (of 301 total)