Forum Replies Created
-
Now comes the Breaker assembly housing. Its easier to fit the points and condenser into the housing before putting the housing into the magneto body.
Attachments:
At this point the coil can be refitted, the coil has a wire which goes to one of the stop buttons. Make sure this wire doesn’t touch the outer casing or the coil will earth.
Attachments:
Next comes the internal wiring, Ground stud group and Stop buttons. pay particular attention to the correct sequence of insulating washers. Each stop button has 5 insulating washers, a flat steel washer and a small nut!
Attachments:
Then fit the End plate gasket, End plate and the Impulse spacer. Refit the four screws.
Attachments:
Then Re-assemble the Rotor assembly and refit into the casing. Don’t forget to lubricate the shaft and housing.
Attachments:
Managed to re-assemble the Wico today. Like a twit I forgot just how much of a punch these little things pack when your not paying attention. Fingers are still tingling!
Anyway, I photographed the re-build, there’s quite a few photo’s as there is a surprising number of parts to these things…..
First step is to fit the lubrication system. Oil pad spring, Oil pad and Oiling disc.Attachments:
I’m hoping this evenings efforts are going to save me a few pounds. The coil looked like it had seen better days. It had a wire pulled off, broken outer insulation and generally in a poor condition. So I cleaned it up, removed the remains of the old ‘soldered’ HT lead, re-attached the broken wire and repaired the outer insulation as best I could.
Having done a little reading up, I hope I’ve got this right….. The first picture I am hopefully testing continuity across the primary winding. The test resulted in a beep, which if I am correct, means no broken windings? The second picture I set the meter to 20k ohms and tested the coil at the point where the HT lead would be connected. This resulted in a reading of 5.38. From my research, any result over 5 is good? Somebody please tell me this is right?Attachments:
I decided to try Charlie’s fix for the cam…..
I ‘v’d the broken edges to take the weld, used a strong magnet to hold the 1/4″ broken piece in place, turned the welder down a tad and slowed the wire feed. I then tacked either end of the repair, left it to cool slightly then filled the rest of the repair using small tacks, one after another whilst the weld pool was still glowing. I then removed the majority of the surplus weld on the bench grinder. Finishing off with the small files. Once the cam was repaired I then used finer grades of emery to ‘polish’ the surface. Most of the repair was over the ‘Dwell’ of the cam, so I was able to copy the shape from the undamaged section. The centre just needed a drill running down it a short way to remove a small amount of surplus weld. It looks pretty good but wont know for sure until all is reassembled. Here’s the finished article….
Might have a go at the coil next???Attachments:
