[charlie]

James, having a look through the parts list, the miller shaft spigot housing MT38 (as shown my photos above) houses the bearing MT361, and is held in place by four 1/4″ x 1″ Whit coutnersunk screws MT362, spring washer RC40 and nuts RC212.
Can you post a photo of your miller shaft and damaged bearing etc?

[charlie]

Copy of original article, looking back at issue 1 I have found the address for David Smith, pm sent to expeatfarmer with details.

Attachments:

1. Ransomes-skimmer-article-FHEC-Spring-1992.pdf

[charlie]

James, is this what you need? The felt washer and cup have long gone. I think they just help keep dirt out of bearing.

Attachments:

1. 
2. 
3. 

[charlie]

James, I must see what I can find.

[charlie]

That issue dates back to 1992. A year before the VHGMC was formed.

[charlie]

Speak to Bob Maries he runs the Garner register, details on page 2 of The Cultivator.

[charlie]

The only David Smith I know of did not live in Godalming. What was the date and title of the magazine?

[charlie]

When you log in you are logging into the website, not just the forum, hence the reason for return to homepage. We want people to realise this is an entire website with many pages other than just the forum. Going to the homepage will highlight any news items which would be missed by going straight to the forum. Hope this explains why it works the way it does.

[charlie]

Geoff, at least that would get the police interested!!!!!

[charlie]

Nice series one Land Rover. I see the blocks are only thermalite type so not as strong as a concrete block. Hope your new system works.

[charlie]

Looking forward to seeing it next weekend at Tractorworld.

[charlie]

Have you tried cleaning the existing oil nipples to see if you can get them to work?

[charlie]

Can you hold the crank using the drive pulley on the other end? Once you have removed starter pulley and engine cowl you should be able to see if the flywheel has any tapped holes for a puller. Photo would help.

[charlie]

Looks like a good find.

[charlie]

The secret is going to be patience. I would start by carefully filing/grinding away part of the nut down to but not into the stud threads. With a bit of care it should come off, may require heat plus penetrating fluid. Depending on condition of thread on stud it may be necessary to run a die down the thread. If thread on stud is beyond recovery one way of removing them would be to weld a nut on. The heat from welding will help loosen them. If they do break off all is not lost. It is possible to weld a nut to the remains of the broken stud by placing a nut over the stud (even if it is flush with head) and welding them through the hole in the nut. I had a stud break in a cylinder head and although it took about 10 attempts, the welded on nut sheared off repeatedly, the stud did come out.
Last resort is to drill out the broken stud and tap the hole. Good luck.

[Author]

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