[charlie]

The only David Smith I know of did not live in Godalming. What was the date and title of the magazine?

[charlie]

When you log in you are logging into the website, not just the forum, hence the reason for return to homepage. We want people to realise this is an entire website with many pages other than just the forum. Going to the homepage will highlight any news items which would be missed by going straight to the forum. Hope this explains why it works the way it does.

[charlie]

Geoff, at least that would get the police interested!!!!!

[charlie]

Nice series one Land Rover. I see the blocks are only thermalite type so not as strong as a concrete block. Hope your new system works.

[charlie]

Looking forward to seeing it next weekend at Tractorworld.

[charlie]

Have you tried cleaning the existing oil nipples to see if you can get them to work?

[charlie]

Can you hold the crank using the drive pulley on the other end? Once you have removed starter pulley and engine cowl you should be able to see if the flywheel has any tapped holes for a puller. Photo would help.

[charlie]

Looks like a good find.

[charlie]

The secret is going to be patience. I would start by carefully filing/grinding away part of the nut down to but not into the stud threads. With a bit of care it should come off, may require heat plus penetrating fluid. Depending on condition of thread on stud it may be necessary to run a die down the thread. If thread on stud is beyond recovery one way of removing them would be to weld a nut on. The heat from welding will help loosen them. If they do break off all is not lost. It is possible to weld a nut to the remains of the broken stud by placing a nut over the stud (even if it is flush with head) and welding them through the hole in the nut. I had a stud break in a cylinder head and although it took about 10 attempts, the welded on nut sheared off repeatedly, the stud did come out.
Last resort is to drill out the broken stud and tap the hole. Good luck.

[charlie]

OK. I will be putting on the club stand.I have spoken to Mark Woodward and entry forms will be posted today. I will arrive on Friday to set up and have booked into Travelodge for 2 nights.
In addition to the club stand I will be bringing Monro Tiller series 1,2,3, MG3 and Monro Minor, 5 exhibits in total. See you there.

[charlie]

plonker, a member had sevearl Mayfields stolen some years ago, including a rare prototype, almost no help from police. So using his own time and initiative managed to track down who by and where they were sold. After much chasing of police I think it did lead to a prosecution but only because he would not let it rest.
If you had used a live shotgun cartridge and killed the thieving (insert suitable words) low life I am sure they would have paid a lot more interest!!!

[charlie]

Of subject, I had a similar incident on e bay, item sold, paid for not collected despite several reminders. In the end one final reminder telling buyer he had 30 days to collect or item would be relisted and his payment kept as storage fees. No contact so I kept the money and sold item.

[charlie]

Looking good, it is the small detail that makes the difference.

[charlie]

Well done a good job.

[charlie]

Very sorry to hear the news of more break ins. Regarding the problem of identifying stolen items if recovered, a while back the FBHVC had an article about and an offer on Select DNA . This overcomes the problem of removed serial numbers as any item marked has a unique fingerprint which can be traced to the owner, might be worth looking at.

[Author]

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