[andyfrost]

There are three different ignition units fitted to the F15 , the points gap should be stamped into the inspection cover…if it is still present , if yours is missing , I would start at 18thou and go from there.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Cheers Angus , as the song goes …….. a picture paints a thousand words.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Depends whether you want to do an accurate restoration , or just get it running , it would be a simple task to make an adjuster from a suitable threaded bolt, drill a hole to accept the spring and just use a nut either side of the bracket for adjustment.
Meetens would more than likely have the proper part , but proper money to go with it.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

“something to adjust the load of the spring”

That is precisely how it works , a threaded adjuster for fixed revs , or the end of the cable for variable.

Keith , we’re talking flywheel magneto here , not a CJ or A series which are of course seperate mags.

Andy

[andyfrost]

As regards to your govenor spring , it depends on whether it was fixed revs or variable , either way you should have a bracket on the valve chest cover , have a look and report back what you have there , if anything.
Remember your ignition unit is a combined coil and condenser, fit your new points and you’ll more than likely have a spark , they’re normally a very good unit and seldom give trouble.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

It sounds like you have the wipac ignition that has the coil/condenser in one single unit , hence you can’t see the actual condenser.
The timing is fixed by a keyway , so no issues there.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Keith you’re bang on the mark , the company I work for has an absolutely atrocious attitude to the virus , LUCKILY no cases thus far , there is however an old saying “you reap what you sow” and I feel in general that is exactly what has happened.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Geoff/Charlie , it’s exactly the same where I live , it’s very rural , you know grass grows in the middle of the road type of thing. We have numerous “pull ins” on our roads to allow traffic to pass one another.Guess what, throughout these times clowns decide to park in them and go for an extended walk, when questioned they honestly do believe they are rural car parks……some people.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

I couldn’t agree more , but he does keep quite a bit of secondhand obsolete stuff. Paul Childs at Meetens is worth a call , at least with Paul you can speak to him on the phone.If you quote him the part number(C6677) he may be able to tell you whether another Villiers fan will fit , it’s not something I’ve tried , so can’t really pass comment.
I see there’s an engine on the well known auction site , but sadly no fan.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

George at Villiersparts may be able to help you , it’s worth a shout.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

A lifetime fiddling with engines.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

16/1 is the correct ratio for the 11c , straight 30 engine oil should be used ,and most definately not any modern synthetic type oils.
The crankcase bushes in the 11c rely on a film of oil to retain crankcase compression , which can’t be achieved with more modern oils.
It will appear smoky and oil the plug if not put to work , give it some stick and you should notice the difference.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Replacing the big end rollers is a horrendously expensive job , remember it has to be re-balanced , which requires specialist equipment , along with specialist prices. If it appears reasonably smooth , and no undue play , I would just thoroughly clean it. It will run perfectly OK with a small ammount of wear , and as you’ve said it will not be used in anger anyway.
To replace the main bearings is relatively inexpensive , these along with the gland seal bushes are far more important to good running.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Once you’ve removed the flywheel and clutch (and obviously cylinder barrel) , you should be left with two taper ends , remove all crankcase joining bolts. Using the clutch retaining nut , wind it on to protect thread, hold the crankcase by the top half and GENTLY tap the crankshaft with a lead or hide mallet and it “should” move out , it may leave the main bearing in the crankcase , either way it doesn’t matter.
Above all else do not force anything , take your time and if need be leave to soak in a barrel of red diesel for a week.
The magneto will be no problem as all parts are still readily available , Paul Childs at Meetens will put you right on parts , they will not be cheap , but it will ultimately mean a machine that will start and run easily.

Good luck Andy.

[andyfrost]

Memory is very sketchy , as it’s quite a while back when I parted with mine. What I can tell you is one mount used the aux petrol intake(the one right next to the exhaust in image 19) which was threaded , to the rear from scant memory there was a fabricated bracket that combined the throttle cable guide.

Andy.

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