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Yes, I’ve got one on the bench at the moment!!!
It’s a bit of a fiddle getting the belt on off and on to the trans pulley but can be done without any major dismantling.
What do you need to know?
Should add that depending on the model of 56 the trans belts may be 2 x 411024 or 1x 411024 and 1x 111-1254. so checking the part numbers against the model number – for example 560F – is wise.Where the white pencil is on the images is a deep recess in the trans casing with a hex head screw in the bottom. Undo and remove that screw (hence the tweezers) and it allows just enough rock in the trans to make fiddling the belt in or out easier.
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If you still have the original fuel tap with the gauze filter, there are now two, the combination of which may be causing some fuel starvation. Try rigging the BS tank on a temporary basis with no additional filtration and if normal running is restored, you have the answer.
Internal cleaning of a rusty steel tank can be done by electrolysis and is very effective. Fill the tank with water with a spoonful or two of washing soda and insert the positive electrode through the filler but insulated from it and not touching the base of the tank. The tank itself is the negative electrode.
It may take upto a week to clean it.Attachments:
22mm btdc is far too much. You cannot convert the linear measurement into degrees of rotation by a simple pro rata calculation. To do the maths correctly you need to know the throw of the crank and the length of the conrod.
If you are a glutton for punishment, here’s the formulaThe rod angle � is related to the crank angle � by:
R*sin(�) = C*sin(�)
R is the rod length, C is half the crank stroke.
So � = asin(C/R*sin(�))
or � = asin(R/C*sin(�))
The drop of the piston is the rod and 1/2 crank stroke minus each length times the cosine of their respective angles.
Piston drop = R + C – [R*cos(�) + C*cos(�)]
Substitute the equation for � from the above equation:
Piston drop = R + C – [R*cos(asin(C/R*sin(�))) + C*cos(�)]
Solve for � given the rod length, 1/2 crank stroke and piston drop from TDC. You can drop that equation into a spread sheet and plot piston drop versus � then put a trend line through it if you do not want to do the inversion.No, I didn’t do it from memory !!!
A 360 degree timing disk on the crank is the easy and safe method. You can download and print a disc from the net and glue it to a bit of card.
Sending this from the tablet but will add an image from the PC later.
Another thing to remember is that if the magneto incorporates an impulse starter the engine should be turned until the impulse trips and then turned back to set the timing.Attachments:
The Easi-mow, ride on mower, was originally manufactured by EFRanger (Ferring) Ltd in West Sussex, in the early 50s, and was of the “open frame” tubular construction. In the late 50s they sold the manufacturing rights to British Anzani who evolved the original design into the more streamlined pressed steel Lawnrider.
The truck illustrated definitely has Easi-mow origins down to the original shaped fuel tank and the “chain around a sprocket” recoil starter. The attached images are of my part restored Easi-mow.Attachments:
