[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie. Did not know this supplier as I used L&S. Head gaskets are cheap indeed and it is easy to get them.
One of my reasoning is that I will export this engine to Africa, where I’d like to use it to power a pump or a generator. Getting spares will become much more difficult, so rather learn (before I go there) how to keep this engine running with a minimum dependence on imported spares.
Also like the challenge that comes with it. From my reading/viewings, if the copper gasket is made properly, it could easily replace a factory one, espcially for side valve engines But may be there are risks, specific to this engine or you would have a different experience to share?
Cheers
Jeff

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy, for your quick reply. I am scared that with Brexit and now COVID, it will take for ever to get spares from the UK.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Now, with a picture with all the bolts. The red ones are the ones that were not on the engine.
So right now, I need to replace my head gasket and here is what I’m thinking doing: make my own head gasket using a 0.5 mm copper plate, that I will anneal prior to applying to the engine.
What do you think?
I am currently working on the tin wear and the tank: removing old paint so as to be able to apply new primer + paint. I will only re-assemble the engine with it’s 8 bolts, so when the tin wear is ready.
I fixed the leaking tap by making my own cork replacement (after watching a number of videos on the topic. Even have a spare replacement cork if needed).
Will let you know how things are evolving.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

When I did re-assemble the engine, I did not have the F15 manual, that you shared with me Angus. I used my little knowledge to tighten the head bolts with a torque wrench and in a cross pattern. However, I only had put back the 5 main bolts, which are also shown on the F15 manual.
I had not put back the 3 other bolts, which I thought were only there to hold the tin cover (cooling cover. Is it called fairing?).
Picture to illustrate:

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Dears
Let me give yo a little update.
Engine was working fine. I had it to run on an external small tank, in order to adjust the carb and check leaks etc. It did work well until…it stopped. When I tried to start it again, it had lost compression. Got scared one valve was gone. After checking, it was not any valve but…the head gasket.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you Geoff, it nice to be able to take some small part in the forums. Your own Trusty Refurb to begin with, then we may branch out. There’s plenty to discover. But having recently bought a Trusty, as a consequence of looking for ploughs, ridgers and other cultivation equipment for my other two wheel tractor, I will now have to get my head around this new commitment. And it is just that, one gets the feeling that you have a burden of responsibility to look after these vintage pieces of equipment. Suddenly we’re taking an in-depth interest in something we had only a passing interest, up until a week or so ago. There’s history there, and even to an untrained eye we can see how well made these machines were, the quality and weight of the steel, built to last, even through possible neglect. Or seventy plus years of hard agricultural work.

With no mechanical know-how to speak of, I’m taking a firm interest in the methods of removing historic rust. I’m thinking I can work my way backwards from the none working, engine, etc, parts, taking on the cleaning up of the ploughs and attachments first. Removing the ten year old dried putty like mud from round the tractors wheels and extensions, and dusting off a similar time spans worth of dust, dry hay and cobwebs. At least it was in dry.

The engine I fear will need more expert hands, no spark to speak off as bits and pieces seem seized up, flimsy connections, strands of fine hair-like wires. And a timber bung screwed into the petrol tank. To mention but a few.

Good times ahead. We will be reading through that entire Trusty Rebuild Forum and all attached comments with great interest. And dreaming of applying the final coat of Trusty green paint

[vhgmcbuddy]

What do bad Elves hang on their Christmas stocking line

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Good evening Mr Sprayerman,hope you are both keeping well, Yes you are one person who would have cracked my quiz in record time!Hows the gardening doing?
Kind regards
Andrew

[vhgmcbuddy]

Mine arrived today. Really good read!
I’ve been a bit quiet on here lately, to be honest this weird year and inability to go to working events etc made me lose a bit of enthusiasm for the hobby and the machines and truck have been tucked away and not started.
However, after reading the magazine, particularly Sam’s ploughing photos, has given me a longing to get behind a noisy SIMAR again.
So here’s hoping we can get out in the fields again next year and maybe see a few of each other again.
Meantime, Happy Christmas to all members, and very best wishes for the New Year.
Peter

[vhgmcbuddy]

The cultivator looks interesting, is it of a type with the ones you have shown in your Trusty vol.2 book on pp15 or pp55-56. And will it be the wire brush and elbow grease to clean back the surface rust, or have you any other methods up your sleeve

[vhgmcbuddy]

The fact that you say the plug has a tapered thread suggests that its for a 14mm plug hole which surprises me as I would expect an 18mm thread. Also , my experience is that NGK plugs don’t suit old engines.
First you need to establish whether its 14 or 18 mm diameter plug thread; then possibly the Green Spark Plug company will be your best bet.
https://www.gsparkplug.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiA_eb-BRB2EiwAGBnXXrA6MUagTJCDRqav-3twFo1AOZ141swNZ4wHQICJQHg1AIafwv7jDBoCDG8QAvD_BwE

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi I have a M1 rotorvator with a Briggs engine starts and runs fine if you put petrol in the carberetta but it won’t start without putting it in???

Really need the Model (92908?), Type and Code numbers but being on an M1 Cultivator it could be from the early 70s and quite well worn . From your description the engine is not sucking up fuel at cranking speed . Simple things, the O ring between carb and manifold has gone hard and is leaking, ditto the two ends of the pulse pipe, the choke butterfly is not shutting / sealing properly, the carb is not sealing to the tank top ( warped carb or tank face ) there is a simple cure . Then it gets more serious, valves not sealing properly and finally rings.
I’ve just changed what’s probably a similar engine on a Hayterette from an iffy starter to a first pull wonder by fitting a cheap set of pattern rings.
Before you do any of the above, try it with a totally full fuel tank and with the throttle just off stop.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Your broken shaft. Just opened my copy of Heritage Tractor and seen an advertisement that says “obsolete parts repaired and manufactured”. May be worth an ask. JJPrice. 01981 510522

[vhgmcbuddy]

Kenny, Try servicing the carb, then check and clean fuel tank and replace fuel line.
Don’t forget to service the air filter too.
Take care and stay safe, Mike.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Do we understand why the shaft failed in the first place?

When I had my business you’d be surprised how many transaxle half shafts we sold or fitted. Not confined to any one ‘box manufacturer either.

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