[vhgmcbuddy]

Remove the crankcase drain screw at the bottom of one of the alloy crankcase halves.This will drain any fuel residue laying at the bottom of the crankcase which will (or should !!) make starting better.When doing this do NOT pull the engine over with the starting rope in an attempt to speed the draining process as it may start and run out of control (due to over lean mixture / air entering engine where it should not).
The Villiers “Lightweight” carburettor has a small brass screw in the center of the throttle slide.Screwing it in weakens the mixture as it lowers the tapered needle and visa versa.Adjust this brass screw so that the tapered needle measures 2 and 3 eighths of an inch from the bottom of the slide.Just one more thing……make sure the engines main bearings (MS8 type) are in excellent order because if they are worn the flywheel WILL come loose and ignition timing will go out due to excess vibration.I have worked on many of these engines and you soon get to know when you are working on a good one !!!.Hope this helps.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Try MEETONS for JAP engine parts.I have recently brought some gaskets from them for a JAP 5 engine fitted on an Anzani Iron Horse.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have sent an email of complaint to the T&M editor and have receieved a fairly bland reply, as have other people, sounds like mixed messages are coming out, my subscription to T&M may well be cancelled before long…

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well said, and let’s hope that our editor knows that Howard rotary cultivators are RotAvAtors and not RotOvators !!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Bugger – changed the mixture to a more sensible ratio and now I can start it again.
Turns over with a drill and I just get the occasional fire.
Anyone have any experience setting up the V648C carbs?
ta, Jim

[vhgmcbuddy]

It has a JLO engine

[vhgmcbuddy]

Have I missed something but where does JLO come in to it?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Nice tractor, a bit of a long shot but would it be worth trying to find out if anyone has the JLO engine records.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I only bought Tractor & Machinery because of the F & HE section. Won’t be renewing my subscription.

[vhgmcbuddy]

It doesn’t really look home made to me, and looks as though it was rather expensive when new, those wheel motors can’t have been cheap.
The chap I bought it from was clearing an elderly neighbours place which is where its from, and the elderly gentleman said it came from the Coventry climax factory when it closed in 1986 and has been in his barn ever since, maybe someone knows someone who worked at coventry climax who may remember this machine and maybe shed some lift on its identity?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes without the class is specified Vintage then it is open horticultural/garden tractor this applies all over the country and should not put anyone off attending with there chonda type machine with a bitsa plough providing the genral plough criteria is kept ie length of board and attachments,

Sam

Attachments:

1. Horticultural-Rules-July-2012-13.doc

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thats a very rotton MK1 scythe you have there!!

At a guess 1934/5 ish.

Looks a bit far gone in places. You need wheels for starters, it looks like its been out side for a long time

Yes Karl has one & one even earlier than this!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thankyou everyone for the replies, I will take a look and try figure it out. And Dieselhead, its still an on-going project but should be garaged again by this winter then I can finally put the body panels on and make the finishing touches. My tractor has got a replacement engine fitted (as you know I had many problems finding a replacement, they are like finding chickens teeth!) but is still an original 16hp B&S single cylinder engine and we’ve had it driving under its own steam (as it were) in the garden haha. We had a new brake disc made as we couldn’t find the original but should do just fine. So it is near completion but things are holding me back at the moment with it not being garaged and other stuff (Exams, Revision and time etc)
– Callum

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well after a bit more tinkering, she’s running.
Lots of miss-firing at the moment as I have an oily mix to bed the new rings in, but I have throttle control, and drive to both the wheels and the tines.

Hooray!

Not managed to start when hot yet – I guess that’s a 2-stroke thing. Any tips?

Also, what oil should be in the bottom of the air filter cup?
Actually, I’ve not got a hose on at the moment which probably isn’t helping the mixture either.

Jim

[vhgmcbuddy]

“To test for a spark you can disconnect the wire and put some tape over the exposed end; that will rule out the stop wire or it’s mounting.”

OK as far as it goes but I have known the kill wire to be earthing out at some point along its length so to be 100% sure, disconnect it from the coil. If you do have to remove the flywheel don’t be tempted to smack the end of the crank with a steel hammer as the slightest bit of distortion or swelling of the part that the starter clutch runs on will cause problems. Preferably don’t hit it at all but if “needs must” use a copper hammer.

[Author]

Posts