[vhgmcbuddy]

Strip and clean the fuel system thoroughly and im sure all will be ok.If not then you may have a compression related problem.

[vhgmcbuddy]

If its the one I think it is its in my home town of Crowborough in East Sussex…

[vhgmcbuddy]

Just to follow up. The shaft is parallel and the impeller came off very easily using a 3 legged puller.
The actual impeller is inside a static housing which is part of the bearing housing attached to the engine’s crankcase.
I used the puller on this housing and it all came off together.

[vhgmcbuddy]

It will cause some imbalance and a little reduction in cooling but that said I’ve seen a lot worse running with no signs of distress. If the engine runs ok with no undue vibration I would just Keep Calm and Cary On!

[vhgmcbuddy]

True Auto Trucks had 3 wheels as per the pictures and the originals were JAP Petrol poweed Later one had achoice of Lister Diesels mostly HR twin Cylinders Some wee made in association with Crompton Parkinson , another Hawker Siddley group company and were Battery powered . Lister also made a four wheeled tug unit usualy HR 3 3 cylinder powered Lister eventually sold off the Auto Truck business and production moved away from Dursley How long it lasted I’m not sure But the last Dursley made ones were late 1970’s Ther is a Club for Autotrucks Listers had one as a works fire Engine which has been preserved Some had chassis designed to take skips of hot foundry waste and Swarf from Listers factory. Some had fixed dropside bodies some had low lowder type bodies for heavy stuff.there were even 3 wheeled tug units Spares should be aviable for the engines but Chassis parts may not be so plentiful The front Driving wheel had a pnematic tyre, most of the rear wheels were solid though pneematics were an option They were Film stars too making into the Italian Job and at least one James Bond movie !!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Had a new exhaust fabricated recently, which is now fitted (photo 0006).

Also had some felt washers made for the reduction gear housings (photo’s 0007 & 0008). I can’t emphasise enough how important these are to the healthy running of a Trusty. The reason my Dad abandoned the tractor in the first place was down to the left hand side reduction gears jamming solid. This happened while ploughing, with the engine pulling hard. The weak link in the transmission turned out to be the countershaft, which ended up twisted like a corkscrew (see photo 0009). The drive chains and sprockets were undamaged. I was fortunate enough to have another Trusty which has been canabalised for spares, donating it’s countershaft for the restoration project. When I originally stripped the reduction housings down, both were missing the felt washers which had resulted in them being full of dirt. There was so much muck in the left hand side housing that it had packed solid around the small drive gear.

While the wheels were removed to fit the felt washers, I took the opportunity to fit the tie rods which hold the side plates of the transmission housing square (photo 0010). The lower one near the large drive sprockets can only be fitted with the wheels off.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Apologises for getting the wrong end of the stick trusty-mad. It’s the sort of thing I’m capable of doing.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Your grandad needs to go to spec savers!!

Bird table looks rather shot any how!!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have 4 of those.

Some people seem to think they are worth a fortune!!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Ivan
I presume that the photo is of a child sized Web, judging by its position next to your Fireplace and cards?

I will bring you some information and the little booklet that goes with machine when I see you in Sandringham. I presume you are going this year?

Regards
Jean

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looks like you ran some over that, big insurance claim.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Excellent, thank you. I have now found the source of the problem, the drive gear for low speed has about 20% of the length of the teeth worn away, I’m guessing from being forced into gear with the clutch engaged or from the belt dragging. I plan to repair it by rebuilding with Armoid welding rods then grinding/filing back to get the tooth profile.

The problem I now have is how to get the drive gears off the little shaft that comes from the worm drive. I have removed the castellated nut but I can’t work out how the gear is on the shaft, it looks to thin to be splined and it ain’t shifting with a puller either.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes, a RAL or Pantone code will be ideal otherwise it will be a case of getting an existing bit scanned. The problem with BS engines of that era (1983) is that there is not much in the way of “hidden areas” that have not been subject to fading as they didn’t paint the inside of the blower housing or air filter canister.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Can’t read the label – which manufacturer is it? Looks good though.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Should have said that the colour of your engine is what Briggs were using for all their replacement engines in the mid 1970s well into the 80s.
I have no idea about dating an MT by its serial number or even it one can. Presume that you already know that the first two digits of the BS Code give you the year – for what its worth in this case!

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