[vhgmcbuddy]

As for the engine….well, I have no idea how it ran the last time it did (maybe 20 years ago)! It was heavily coked up and covered in carbon deposits, it took some real work to clean up. The head isn’t finished hyst yet but getting there as you can see from the pictures.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

The blades weren’t in great shape so I’ve rubbed down and re painted the disc. New blades are on order, expected to arrive next week sometime.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi everyone,

So I’m making progress, despite a few set backs.

Here’s some updated pics of how things are going.

Firstly, some more pics of the stripdown.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Dave did you pick up chassis number for the ITW for your register? Not found a number on the skimmer yet. Demon loader was interesting, has a second loose fitted seat frame that sits on the gearbox to enable you to drive it backwards but must be a pig to work as both hydraulics and track drive are both operated through the centrifugal clutch so there would be a lot of revving up slowing down crunching gears etc to operate it effectively, big piece of kit though bucket must hold 3cwt.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Just noticed it has 4 load rollers, is it longer than a standard skimmer?

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Congrats on completing your quest, you will have to open a museum now to display them all.
Did you get any photos of the MG6 with Demon loader?

[vhgmcbuddy]

With the 80th anniversary of the MG Tractor next year I hope to have these machines at least driving so that at Tractor World Malvern we can guarantee to have at least one of every model on display. If anyone knows of another Skimmer in existence I would love to hear about it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

If you look around the outer edge of the flywheel you will see 1/2″ dia holes drilled in it which where used to balance the flywheel. Put a 1/2 bar in the deepest one of them and undo the nut. The strap wrenches are not very good as they spring to much. A puller is best used to pull the flywheel off, lump hammers are best avoided.

If you need any more help ring me on 07802 199906

[vhgmcbuddy]

thanks hortiman,looking forward to hearing from you. Ken

[vhgmcbuddy]

thankyou hillsider, warning taken onboard, thank you for the warning.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Guys, when I swing on the engine I get a fine fog coming out of the starter fuse hole when the fuse holder is removed, I cannot hear anything apart from a deffinate click or knock sort of sound coming from the pump area. Hortiman I’m very interested in the copy of the manual also the pump if you still have it,please could you message me some information regarding price etc, many thanks Ken

[vhgmcbuddy]

Don’t see how you could measure the voltage of the spark as it happens extremely quickly, quicker than a multimeter would react?

If you’ve replace condenser and points and still suspect the magneto, all that’s left is the coil and the rotor. The rotor rarely gives any trouble so I would put a new coil in it as it sounds like it is breaking down. Does the resistance measure ok? You have basically overhauled it yourself if you do that.

The HT terminal to ground should have a resistance about 5k. If there is no resistance it is most likely no good.
The center of the side terminal should be insulated. The metal tag is grounded so when metal tag is pushed onto terminal the LT shorts and the magneto stops sparking. You cannot measure the terminals for insulation with the coil, condenser or points connected as they will all give a reading on a test meter.

[vhgmcbuddy]

When it injects Ken is the fuel completely atomized ??.It should look like a cloud of very very fine mist when it injects.If all you get is large droplets of fuel from the nozzle then that will never ignite under compression and your FI pump needs a good overhaul.
The following is the only information I have for a Sachs 500 engine (as fitted to a Howard Gem) but I guess your model is the same.I hope this helps…..
Fuel injection 1764 psi (must not be below 1470 psi)
Injection commences 25 degrees BTDC
Oil should always be visible in the front compartment of the engine.
Always use the starting knob (RH side from the front of the engine)…..pulling the knob retards the injection and prevents kick-back when starting.
Let us know how you get on :):)

[vhgmcbuddy]

I will, and thank’s for all the advice from you Guys, Ken

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ive had the cylinder head off and the diesel is injecting just before TDC, I think along the same lines as you guys, I think I will get the pump refurbished, I really would like to get it up and running again, hopefully before the cold weather gets here

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