[vhgmcbuddy]

Echoing Neil’s comment I have lost count of the number of bearings I have replaced on crawlers that had been packed with grease and not 140 oil . The grease goes solid over time and is extremely difficult to remove.The load rollers have a long drilling through the castings to the centre cavity between the bearings, grease blocks this so that no lubricant gets to the bearings. I use SAE140 in an air powered grease gun and pump until it escapes the seals.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The older the machine the less fussy it is likely to be as any of today’s oils and greases are probably likely to be of far better quality than those back in the days when the machines were being used in anger? The exception to this is Two-stroke oil where I say “old oil for old engines”, but I think that we’ve already been there!
Some oil (or grease) is at least better than no oil!!

[vhgmcbuddy]

back in the 70s I used to plough a 5 acre field (not all at once) with a Howard 350 on the family market garden in Staffordshire before I saw sense and bought a grey Fergie still got both with rest of my Howard and Allen Scythe collection

[vhgmcbuddy]

Another picture

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hey thanks for the help all I need now is to work out how to get to the drop box on here

I was a bit puzzled by by that remark but then realised that you can only see the Dropbox link if viewing the post in the main Forum area. It is not visible if viewing updated posts in Activity.

Here it is again.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t59ihxrrrijqqaq/Kohler%20ignition%20etc0001.pdf?dl=0

[vhgmcbuddy]

The reason for checking the spark ( at the end of the plug lead) is that it has been known for an incorrectly positioned low tension wire to short out against the inside of the cover.

A lot of useful info in the Dropbox scan that I posted – you just need to click on it in my post.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ah Success the Flywheel can away with a few taps with the copper mallet . Coil is dated 1973 so is I thing original . Simple multi meter connected from the plug lead to the wire that runs to the Condenser does show some resistance but not sure what I am looking at Having got it all apart a new coil may be a wise investment. The Coil part number is 232901 or 238059 Kohler part 47-755-20 10mm square hole 27 mm approx high and around 41mm across I think looking at the replacements on the auction site, the one lead to the condenser will need to be lengthened, looks like some did this on mine originally too ! Kohler price is a staggering £169.00 The pattern is £29.00 Guess which I will fit . Yeap probably Chinese but hell hopefully will be mobile !!!

Hey thanks for the help all I need now is to work out how to get to the drop box on here

Have a great weekend and thank you

[vhgmcbuddy]

For one off purposes a bit of plain bar with no centre screw will do. Slacken the flywheel nut a turn or two and put the pressure on by either tightening the two bolts screwed into the fly wheel or use studding with nuts and tighten the nuts bit at a time.
Be aware that being of US origin, the tapped holes in the flywheel will be UNC thread and not metric.
The page 10.1 of the Dropbox file that I attached to my post has a not entirely accurate drawing of a “posh” puller with a centre screw – it should show a bit of crank protruding from the flywheel.

[vhgmcbuddy]

im in the new forest, i have Henderson bearings in Ringwood and bsl in Southampton..the real problem I have is the belts were not the correct ones to start with, I don’t think they are wide enough…i.e they maybe the wrong section..can any bolens owner measure across the wide bit of the main drive belt please? Both my drive belts appear to be the same length, is this correct? Do the americans use a different u.s section to us? thanks steve

[vhgmcbuddy]

Stupid question Does the puller you suggest need to have a thread hole and bolt in the middle to bare on the crank rather like a 3 legged puller would ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I would say the plough is fine to use on your allotment . The tiller extensions should be OK too , of course, it depends on the condition of the engine . The 350 is a Howard and they are well made compared to a lot of machines . I have been looking for some Spade lug type wheels for mine, as this would help with ploughing . You will need to try it out , and adjust the plough to suit your soil. Your planned use is absolutely what the machine was designed for Watch out for buried treasure if you have recently taken on the allotment. If the plough hits something buried the machine will kick and that hurts. My Howard has only tried to kill me twice so far so be warned !!

Have fun and stay safe .

[vhgmcbuddy]

Wristspin Thanks for the advice

I will make up a puller and try what you have suggested . My belief is the local machinery shop had a hydraulic puller .

Spark with the points cover removed . OK so cover is off, if I turn the engine over , there should be a spark at the points ? IE they should be live . I did disconnect the kill switch at the Condenser, just to eliminate and track to earth in that one no joy there . Like I said , I have swapped the condenser .

Thanks again

[vhgmcbuddy]

Just as well that your ” local guy” didn’t end up with a ring of flywheel and the centre still on the crank. Using any sort of legged puller ( if that’s what he did) on your Kohler or any similar flywheel is an absolute no, no. If the flywheel is drilled and tapped near the centre, make up a puller with a bit of flat plate and two set screws to bear on the end of the crank ( protected by the flywheel nut), wind it up tight and give it a sharp tap with a hammer. Maybe, also warm the centre of the flywheel up but remember what’s behind it!
Points, the recommended setting is 20 thou.
You can use an external automotive type coil but you will need a battery and have to give it a charge now and again. Better to stay standard. Before you get carried away doing that, take the points off and give them a thorough clean, make sure that they are shutting square to one another and set the gap accurately, better a bit tight than wide as I have had a couple that have run better nearer 18 thou than a sloppy 20. Also try checking the spark with the points cover removed.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t59ihxrrrijqqaq/Kohler%20ignition%20etc0001.pdf?dl=0

[vhgmcbuddy]

thank’s for the lesson i have the front weight on a stepped bar and the wheel weights, I thought it would be of use at the allotment in the spring or turning over for the winter.The 350 is such a well made machine, i also have the tiller extension kit which makes it a little wider i think it’s about 24 inches. Is this only used in light soil or is the machine man enough to use it on my clay soil..

[vhgmcbuddy]

Local motor factors will only stock set sizes for vechiles, best bet will be a bearing or drive trian speclist. Where abouts in the country are you? Theres a very good company near me in hull,

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