[vhgmcbuddy]

Never wanting to leave questions hanging
I found:

Drive Shafts

I’ll update this when I get an approx quote.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Alan
Thanks for that, so itlooks, like the name Inproved Excelsior was used on many different models. The model I have is small and defiantly a push mower and not a tow behind. The name Inproveed refers to to the cutting real being changed from 3 to 4 blades, this was to improve the cut on the softer UK lawn grasses.

Cheers

Ian

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi all, I am very happy: I could find three segments, a spark plug and some material to weld an exhaust pipe. I will run in the valves next weekend, and look for the belt of the ventilator. My brother, whose venerable BSA motorbike sometimes needs to be repaired, told me I might find a tickler on Faked.com; let’s wait and see… The mower is nearly operational, after having slept half a century in an old orangery…
See you

[vhgmcbuddy]

Such a shame as I used to live next door
to a retired engineer with basically a machine
shop in his garage. He could have and gladly
would have done made another drive shaft !
Sadly he has gone to the machine shop in the skies.
My go to expert is a loss.

Have you no one in the club who is similar.
If not one should be lured into the club by any means
necessary ……

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi all

Please find attached photos of my Coldwell.

Cheers

Ian

Attachments:

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Update :

Now fixed. Another working transaxle fixed it. 100£ ebay.
Slight issue selecting neutral now but that must be
simple adjustment on the nut on the bar but
I simply could not be doing that and gonna rain
tomorrow so had to cut.brake and clutch adjusted ok.
All good.
Nothing in manual anyway about gear selection adjustment.

Thanks for help on here. Much apprexiatee.

My broken transaxle still need to be fixed however !
– broken drive shaft. Being main issue.

Q) with your even more vintage machines
when they break if no parts how do you fix ?

You see this mower is not only a machine but a friend now
and must be saved at all costs.
How would you on your old machines fix a broken
drive shaft ?

Scrap heap surely is not an option for these old machines.

Attachments:

1. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi, I think this is an earlier version to the type 5. Looks like it was later revised to a ball bearing – not a good sign for my engine 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Ted 20. Definitely motorbike tyres then. You might all wonder why I haven’t bought some from George at Villiers – he’s out of stock due to supply problems related to Coronavirus.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Some years ago I worked on potato trials and if we had a variety we wanted to plant but didn’t have enough seed we would cut spuds in half to make up a full plot. As long as there was a vigorous shoot on each half it seemed to work OK. I seem to remember in extreme cases we may have even cut some in to four!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy,
I am sure the fuel needle is all the way down.
There is a bigger end diameter that is up against the circlip already.
So I cannot lower anymore?
Steve

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the comments Wristpin, Charlie and Andy.
I have not removed the flywheel yet, I decided to check the carb again as Andy suggested.
The jet at the bottom of the float bowl seemed ok, I removed it blew out and checked the passageway with a piece of wire and was clear.
The fuel needle seemed free and the carrier it is attached too sliding up and down the keyway no problem.
I ran the engine again. It seemed to run a bit better.
The mixture screw I set at 1 and half turns undone.
With no throttle on I screwed the adjusting screw on the main jet until it was nearly at its lowest point this natural slowed the engine running speed to an acceptable tick over without racing away and not to slow that it was trying to cut out.
Now if I open the throttle lever the engine speed did pick up but to me didn’t seem smooth. If I left the throttle open it did hold a higher running speed. but if I released the lever it stayed at the higher speed?..but the cable had returned the needle.
If I manually pulled the cable on the carb it increased the speed and if released it slowed down?..
It seemed to be giving a bit of black smoke as if too rich mixture?
I removed the plug which was sooty also indicating too rich?
Strange I could not seem to get it to settle or accelerate correctly?
Can the magneto timing be upsetting the smooth acceleration and return to idle speed as if it’s not firing at tdc?
Thanks again for any advice or sequence of checks or adjustments to try
Steve

[vhgmcbuddy]

Only just found messages . Thanks. Will do.

[vhgmcbuddy]

P.s :
– could not get the casings back together to store.
Not a fault but simply cannot get it back together.
Has two small ball bearings too that can drop out.
This will have to wait , be cleaned out re greased
IF
I can get a drive shaft for it.

I think the answer to that is – not a chance!

Q) not that I am going down this route but if I was an
obsessive and wanted this transaxle back working
is it possible ?
Are there co panies that repair , re build or make
de9ve shafts ?
(I’d just like to know for when all parts si only run out
when I am 186 years old )

[vhgmcbuddy]

Transaxle casings split and issues found:

Summary:

Torx head bolts – were set to 6-7nm torque
No stuck bolts or stripped threads. Good case surfaces.

Broken brake pad metal guide / spacer (49) (as per pic)
(dana part num 5036)

No gasket used just remnants of instant gasket.

Broken drive shaft at end 37 (dana part num 3997) as per pics

Need to know:

– spec for brake pads thickness

– Where to get parts (Have contacted Murray and Hayter)

Attachments:

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks for advice. They are soaked in pen’ oil
and they all seem to have hex heads.
I mechanicallu restore vintage 70’s 80’s motorbikes
so am armed with all necessary for stubbornness!

Points taken though.

Might delve into transaxle today.
What on earth could cause the issue I am seeing though
internally ..?

[Author]

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