[vhgmcbuddy]

That one is Definitely a GT2 ( some badged Contractor) with a JLO engine which was available with or without the wheeled undercarriage . The original Flymo Domestic had an Aspera TA633 engine a metal fuel tank, fibre glass hood and an alloy impeller. Next came a similar machine , Aspera VA633, plastic tank and impeller and plastic (ABS?) hood. Then there was a similar machine with badged Professional with an Aspera VA633 and a blue hood , optional handle bar mounted snorkel air cleaner and optional undercarriage.
Then there were two yellow decked, Kirby Lauson engined machines 19” and 21” called Contractors ( I’ve got one of each!). Then there were various different variants with Tecumseh engines including the little 12” TL with the sweet running Kawasaki KT12 engine . I lost track of the variants after that and the days of the petrol hovers were fading away until the re-emergence of machines with Honda four-strokes – not true hovers needing undercarriages to float.
Flymo were masters of the mix and match so the above doesn’t claim to be exhaustive ,but is roughly what was available . One thing for sure is that when Flymo’s patents expired and several others, Atco, Allen, Templar etc, had a go at the hover market, no one else did it as well as Flymo.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks for the detailed information.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Flymo’s were sold under various names, the one you have in the picture is a Flymo Contractor 52, 52 coming from the cutting width of the blade.
The engine should be an Aspera 122cc long life heavy duty, air cooled, third-port induction, loop scavenged two-stroke.
The one you are showing dates from the earliest 1975 – 1981
The engine speed is fixed at 3,300rpm, the carb has a diaphragm with a fixed jet and primer, don’t go pocking any wire into those jets, as you will ruin the engine!
They were sold by the lorry load to Councils for use on banks, I can remember quite clearly the wheels were great for travelling site to site, but that frame always got in the way on steep banks, times many we attached ropes to them, sending them down steep banks then pulling them back up on the rope and at the end of the day having arms the length of Orangutans!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you Alan. That is really helpful. The cam must be above, not below, the aperture and I now understand the fitting instruction. My new plastic pump has a bent steel U channel type arm and I thought that what I could see through the hole was the blade below the big end cap which would fit into the U of the arm. Your wear witness mark has explained all. I’ll look upwards to find the cam and make sure that I tilt the pump upwards when I re-fit it.
Thanks again.
Keith
P.S. I wish that my tractor looked as good as the photo of yours but now with your help I can at least get mine back to work. 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Alan. That is very helpful. I cannot see the cam through the small aperture that the pump fits into. I assume that it is out of sight below the aperture. If so I don’t understand the fitting instruction to ensure the pump lever is positioned above the camshaft. The new pump I have would not allow the lever to drop down that far out of sight. Is it likely that the driving cam could be so worn that it will no longer drive the pump?
Keith

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie. I already have the manuals but sadly the info on the fuel pump is limited and no good diagrams that I can find.
Thanks also David. I am with you on this issue. The old girl should outlive me if it is properly maintained. I still have my first car on the road which I bought in 1964 and that is now 94 years old. My last two modern cars had to be “thrown away” despite being in good mechanical order and both looked pretty much brand new but they both had minor electronic issues which could not be solved! My newest car is now 24 years old and precedes the era of electronics controlling the car but the electronics just advise. Even with that the other day my dashboard lit up saying “stop the car” because of low oil pressure. There was absolutely nothing wrong apart from a faulty electronic sensor.
Still hoping someone might recognise my fuel pump.
Keith

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks urbanalfa. I know the new pump works out of the engine which is how I identified that it was plumbed in the wrong way round but I am not sure if the blade on the underside of the big end cap is reaching the drive arm and unless I take the engine out and take the sump off I can’t see. That is why I hope someone who knows the engine might be able to identify if my new pump is the right one. I have asked the company if I can have my old pump back but I fear it might have been junked already.
Keith

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi you are lucky to find one .I have been looking for one for months and have an add in aprils cultivator.fully restored I will pay a lot and just good running order 6-8. just need to find one. been a garden tractor ploughman for 25 years but disability is now makeing it hard for me so one of these I can manage to get on and enjoy.been in the preservation movement since 1973,restoring many machines as old as 1921 models and some of my restorations are now in museums in wales and other parts of country.I am 76 now but want to keep showing these machines for as long as I can and I can manage one of these.thankyou mike berry

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi,
Thank you for info, much appreciated.
This will help us a lot.
Michael and Christian

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

I remember my father having a number of barrow sprayers in the 1970’s thrown in the hedge as no longer used on our hop farm in Kent. Most were made by Drake and Fletcher or Weeks of Maidstone but the iron frame was different to yours. Where are you based as it could be of local manufacture.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Afternoon all,could someone tell me or how to find out what date the gem was made? The serial number is
G48494 many thanks jamie

[vhgmcbuddy]

Just a update, I have changed ht leads around on the distributor cap and found the tank filter was blocked. Petrol Wasn’t running at a flow.cleaned out tank and fuel tap reassembled and she’s purring along now ! 😀 many thanks for the replies

[vhgmcbuddy]

Dear Geoff,

Many thanks for your invaluable advice. Found that my machine did not have a screw with locking wire over the slot. But a spring clip with a pin that would locate the sprocket bush. The flat spring clip goes about two thirds around the sprocket hub. Still have a problem though because the clip appears twisted and no matter what I did I could not get it to clear the bearing housing. Have made a special tool, a piece of steel with a slot in it the same size as the hub to slide in between the bearing housing and the clip. So the clip should straighten enough so I can push it off the hub. There is very little clearance between the housing face and the clip, so made the tool out of the thinnest steel plate I could find. A paint tin lid. But think it will not be strong enough, but have not tried it yet. Will give an update as to how I get on.

The continuous rain has put back any chance of ploughing though. Am like a lot around here with ground that needs working, but its too wet. Am concerned the shaft is twisted and if so, am not sure I can straighten it.

Best wishes,

Grahame

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for some information David I will check the valve tolerances next time I’m down the shed. I’ve found some information on the web does 0.006 sound about right for inlet and outlet clearances? Many thanks

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