[vhgmcbuddy]

Sorry to have troubled you Thanks for the info

[vhgmcbuddy]

I am across the pond in Canada could you give me his e-mail address and i would talk to him, but am still interested in buying the carb I have a friend who is a whiz with carbs.

[vhgmcbuddy]

well that’s more than i started with could you send me a picture of it and how much you would like for it and can we still get a carb kit?.

Ken

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Andy unfortunately the way i got the garden tractor with that engine mark IV-B was with out the piston,carb and sized up not sure if coil works, am trying now to loosen it up I have some pictures i am sending too.
The numbers tell me that it is a 350cc built in 1921

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Well, the gearbox is now back from the welders and the main worm shaft has been turned down, a collar heat shrunk on and turned to size. All looks good but I do need to helicoil one thread. 5/16″ BSW helicoil is hard to find a guess but I will keep my eyes and ears open.

I have just been cleaning the casting tonight and I think it should be all systems go either this weekend or probably next weekend if the weather holds out. It’s getting a tad chilly out in the garage.

I need to revisit the paint job on the hubs I think. The paint has run for certain and I think there are fine, almost dust particles on the finish. I shall look at this next time I’m in the garage, but for now I’m happy warming myself next to the fire!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Only seen 2 of them beasts over the years

[vhgmcbuddy]

I will be there on Friday afternoon with my Allen Scythe which was left out in the rain and it shrunk Dave

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks I would be very grateful. To be quite honest the one I have is not really worth putting back on in the state it is in as it is cracked diagonally across one corner. As a last resort there is a company locally which manufactures containment flasks for the nuclear industry who may have somebody who could effect a decent repair but it would be easier just to replace it especially as there is a bit missing.
I am hoping to clean the gearbox out this weekend and sort out most of the other jobs such as checking the tracks over and general lubrication so that we can be as near to ready as possible for when the gearbox lid issue is resolved. Still lots of little jobs to sort out though and it always takes longer than you estimate.

[vhgmcbuddy]

A single wire off the brass tab on the outside of the magneto body will do the job connect to a switch or push button near the seat, A runaway crawler is not funny they will climb over anything and drop off steep banking without coughing. I am near Carlisle but may be able to get a cover delivered to you. I will have a look and see what I have.

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s a good idea about the kill switch, should be nice and simple to do. I finally got the old cover off yesterday, came off quite easily with the aid off a two legged puller which I borrowed. Mind you it should have done after a week of heating and lubricating. It is in very poor order with a little bit missing where one of the brake bands rods comes through so it does really need replacing. I am in cambridgeshire, where are you?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I may have a spare gearbox cover where are you from?
I think it is great to involve your children so many now have no idea of mechanical things.
The MG2 does not normally have an electric cut out switch near the driver. As they are prone to sticking throttle cables the centrifugal clutch means that the tractor cannot be stopped if the throttle sticks with all the risks that can involve. Having had it happen to me several times can I suggest that you fit a kill switch wired off the magneto to kill the engine in the event of any mishap.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie, thanks for that information. Any idea of the company location/timelines? Judging from those pictures there are 3 different machines in the gallery. Anyone with any information on the clutch setup of these?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Dave,
Thanks for the offer of the book download but we got hold of a paper copy. It has been very useful. As regards the machine number the plate is very rusty but I have cleaned it up and think I can make the number out but I am going to get my wife have a look to confirm before I let you know. Where would I find the engine number, I had a quick look but couldn’t see anything.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I think Neil advised a puller and heat but I just thought I’d ask if anybody else had any other ideas. The pullers I have are 3 legged and won’t pull evenly and I don’t want to damage the top of the shaft as it looks as if it has had some previous attention. I can borrow a two legged one tomorrow to try but it’s holding me up today.
The gearbox cover has already been damaged in the past and I am intending to replace that when I can find one as it let’s the rest of the machine down. I wouldn’t mind if it was a tidy repair but it’s not.
I’ll get a new grease gun and try the 140 oil in it then, the stuff that’s slowly draining out of the final drives looks pretty thick and nasty.
My son is coming up to eleven and expressed an interest in the ransomes at a steam rally we were at so I thought this would be a better bet than my full size fleet which my daughter drives under supervision. I also want him to get away from the computer and television and gain some practical skills so this seemed perfect and my wife approved so we are all happy. I may not have got away with another full sized tractor!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I use 140 grade oil which is thick enough to be applied using a standard grease gun.
The gear levers are notoriously tight a puller and heat are the only way to remove without major damage. Do not lever against the gearbox cover it will crack. How old is your son?

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