[vhgmcbuddy]

I have a wartime david brown aircraft tractor. They replaced the fordson model n for heavy work as they were not man enough to shift a bogged down aircraft being prone to clutch slip under heavy loads. The david brown was originally used in crawler form but as already stated they tended to damage the grass runways. They were returned to david brown and converted back to wheels. Mine has a torque converter transmission where gears are selected by braking the fluid flywheel via a hand lever. An 11000 lb winch also operates through the fluid transmission making everything smooth and controlled.
Although these tractors were designed for heavy four engined bombers I cannot see a ransomes tractor being used for even a light single seater fighter. I think it is just someone’s over active imagination.

[vhgmcbuddy]

That would be good and I would be grateful.

sean

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie! I have an old puller that I can modify, I have the nut loose and have wound it flush to the end of the threads to protect the shaft. I will go start soaking it now!!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well we are off to a good start! I have started the process of cleaning, soda blasting and priming. I have sourced bearings and seals. The main problem I have right now is how to release the flywheel from taper! My plan is to strip off the rear of the crankcase and place the remaining half in the press and push on the crankshaft. I am worried that I will blow the crankcase to bits in the process!! There is nowhere where I can place a puller. I have tried heat and shock with no cigar! Any advice is highly appreciated!
Thanks so much in advance. Once fully stripped and inspected I will start a new thread in projects!

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks for the info.

As for spares, nothing is readily available. You either need to cannibalise another engine, or have items manufactured. Pistons and rings did used to be available from Cox & Turner Engineering. For my engine, I had to make my own starting handle and mounting brackets for the fuel tank.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’m concerned about spare parts availability, petrol tanks, starting handles, exhaust silencers ETC.

Are spares still available anywhere?

[vhgmcbuddy]

You should have a thin spring steel disk as in the image below. It is 0.20mm thick.

Does anyone know if any spares are still available for these engines??

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s great to hear Carl. Tough old machines, these SIMARS. Hopefully you will get manifold repaired ok.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Got simar running today all is ok . Had enough fuel for 10mins of run time . Egg cup of water came out but exhaust manifold has craked more
It has been welded in past.
Will run a weekend

[vhgmcbuddy]

Bonser Plate bit tatty but getting on a bit

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Interesting Charlie. I have tried following the recommendation in the past but the gearbox oil seemed to drain into the engine causing problems starting in new season. I know, I should get around to renewing seals!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have a Merry Tiller that needs a bit of work, so I will use that and attempt to fabricate something.

sean

[vhgmcbuddy]

Problem is just got back from dads working all day tomorrow back aftér dark
Tuseday will be the day to start up. Not making this misstake again.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Dave
This is annoying, I used to have one of these but didn’t keep a copy of the engine manual. SAE 40 is definitely too thick. From memory I’m pretty sure for UK climate it’s SAE20, for warmer countries SAE30. But I could be wrong. These are heavy engines to turn over, especially when cold in winter, at one time I put too thick oil in (30 I think) and could hardly turn it over in winter.
Peter

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Carl. I’ve never had this happen, but if it did I’d be tempted to remove plug and spin engine over several times. Then a squirt of oil in cylinder, spin over again, clean plug and try to start and if it goes leave it running for a good time to throughly warm up. After stopping immediately open drain tap to let oil etc out. I’m thinking the sooner you get it running and oil circulated around, the less chance of internal corrosion. Charlie, I hasten to say, may well know better!
Stable doors and horses, but I put an empty dog food tin over all my SIMAR exhausts to stop water getting in when in storage.
Peter

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