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August 23, 2020 at 1:42 pm #35286
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI am in Tibshelf, Derbyshire.
August 23, 2020 at 11:58 am #35285
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi,
No there will no points!
Can upload pics of the engine
Thanks
Mark
August 23, 2020 at 11:21 am #35282
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterIt would help to know where you are
August 23, 2020 at 6:59 am #35278
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAugust 22, 2020 at 1:56 pm #35275
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAgree with Andy. The Mk25C can have one of 3 carbs but I believe the Bantam has the Villiers Lightweight Type 3/4 carb. A single cable is offset centre to the top of the carb. Earlier Lightweight carbs on Mk25C (late 40s into the 50s) had a lever as well as a cable in the top plate but I doubt it is that model. The Villiers carbs are quite advanced and clever and are ‘compensating’ design, the mixture self-adjusts with engine speed. View it as factory-set but obviously as things get very old and worn this can get less true. Be certain that the timing is correct first before trying to adjust (5/32″ before TDC – points 0.015″). Maybe also try to ensure carb internals are clean. I have a lot of Villiers engines and the two-strokes seem to be very fussy regards spark plugs. Some modern plugs can fire but run rubbish, if at all. I recently did a test on a Mar-Vil which I know runs well. I swapped out several 18mm plugs of age and make and half don’t even start the engine. Only certain plugs like the magneto ‘power’. I don’t want to encourage more competition for the original period plugs!, as the prices are high, but the best plug for this engine is likely to be the Lodge C3. Get one and see if that solves the problem if you have a different plug. I have been paying up to £30 for NOS of these. Champion 8COM is worth a try and my Mk25C has an AC83TS plug. Also, only use old-style 2-stroke oil, modern stuff is a disaster in these engines. I have tried and end up with blue coating on everything, easy to order original Castrol XL on-line. If timing is correct and still problems, a 2-stroke should run relatively lean and should 2-stroke i.e. fire every revolution with no load, if rich it may not 2-stroke. To adjust mixture, unscrew top ring on carb, remove the throttle slide with cable. Under the top plate is the needle adjuster. clockwise weakens (lowers the needle). Only fine adjustment, quarter to max half turn at a time. Manuals say to set from ‘lost setting’ position, start with the end of the screw 2 threads (1/16th”) from top of throttle slide. If you can find one on auction sites, the book by B E Browning ‘Villiers Engine for Industrial, Agricultural and Horticultural Use’ covers M25C and the carbs. It is a rarer book than his similar books on motorcycle engines, presumably down to numbers likely to have been sold. I found one in Holland!
It should be easy enough to find a section diagram of the carb if you search for lightweight or 3/4. It is very similar to the Junior carb as well. It is possible to get different needles I believe but if it is the original carb for the engine it should be correct. I think that to change a needle size isn’t just the needle change though.
Best wishes, Ian
August 22, 2020 at 10:04 am #35273
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi
Thanks for the reply, I understand there are three different areas that need to be filled with gearbox oil, in some areas the drain screws are on top so do you need to suck the oil out with a pipe and fill it up until the oil comes out of the oil level screw? Do you know how much oil I would need, would I get away with a 1l bottle?
Many Thanks for the help
Jack
August 21, 2020 at 2:48 pm #35262
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAugust 21, 2020 at 2:48 pm #35260
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAugust 21, 2020 at 1:52 pm #35259
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi Dave,
It came to me in running order. Tracks, fuel, and oil lines all redone.
Very fortunate there.
It is a rare sight here in the lowlands (had never seen one ”live” myself). The only thing not fitted was the exhaust. Not that the open fishtail pipe makes much difference. The neighbors know when I run it ;-).Peter
August 21, 2020 at 11:14 am #35257
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterIt also came with a C29 toolbar.
August 21, 2020 at 11:07 am #35255
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAugust 20, 2020 at 11:00 am #35251
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi,
Thank you very much
Regards
Mark
August 20, 2020 at 7:49 am #35249
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi,
Also was wondering if anyone on the Forum would know where I can get Transport wheels and a exhaust
Or any other bits and bats For this Model
ThanksMark
August 18, 2020 at 12:44 pm #35238
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAre there any magneto experts on here, I have a question about my magneto on my graveley walk behind tractor, I have a single red wire coming out of the coil that goes to the spring part of the points it is joined by the wire from the condenser and a wire that goes through the body to the kill switch but even with the coil wire disconnected I have continuety between the coil wire and any point on the tractor as though there is a direct connection,my question is has the coil broken down or is this correct.
Going back to your original post , I think that you are “ over thinking” the issue as it all seems to be as it should. It runs, and it stops. Both the primary and the secondary coil winding are grounded at one end so a meter connected across their respective windings will always show continuity. The kill wire disconnected from the points should not show continuity between itself and ground unless there is either a fault or the kill button is pressed. That’s all there is to it.
August 18, 2020 at 7:58 am #35237
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI have a set of dual wheels. I have also acquired a set of four solid tyres. They may be useful for mowing thorny brash.
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