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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 29 total)
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  • #41924
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    This looks like one of the plastic Chinese fuel pumps available on a well known auction site. I can’t advise which fuel pump is correct for your engine, but it should be possible to test if the pump is working by manually using the lever while it’s not fitted to your machine.

    If possible, I’d recommend getting the original fuel pump back from the mechanic and taking it apart swapping the new diaphragm into the old fuel pump body. It’s usually the diaphragm that fails and the diaphragm in the new pump should fit into the old pump.

    #41385
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    If you can’t find somewhere local there are a couple of companies advertising on eBay if you search for ‘cylinder grinding service’

    #41170
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    There’s no picture visible, but it sounds like a bout marker to me. Fitted to the top of an implement and marking a line in the soil so that you have a line to work to when returning down the other side of the row on your next pass

    #41164
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    My electric iron won’t be powerful enough to get it hot – I’d probably use a mapp torch that I’ve used for soldering copper pipe

    #41162
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    Thanks Chris, I’d been thinking I would mig weld some tabs on, but it doesn’t need the strength of a weld and soldering would allow me to use a lot less heat so that’s probably the way to go. I’ve never soldered steel before, but I can’t imagine it’s any different to soldering copper

    #41159
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    Thanks Charlie – I hadn’t tried them, but have now been in touch and they can’t find a supplier of these parts. I assume there isn’t a great deal of demand for these parts nowadays and it’s no longer worth making them.

    I’ll have to get creative and make something

    #41065
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    Good to hear that it’s cutting well.

    How long did it take you to cut 4 acres? Interested to know how fast they are compared to more modern equipment

    #40910
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    You’re right to be sceptical that it would weigh two tons! An MG40 weighs about the same as an MG6 and slightly more than an MG5. I haven’t got the weight written down anywhere (can’t find it in the book), but it’s certainly less than a ton.

    #40811
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    Either search on an auction site for ‘coal tar creosote’ or visit a local agricultural supplier

    #40625
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    Have you tried to find a non-runner for sale that you could strip for parts? I’m not sure how common the parts are, but I suspect they’re modern enough to come up from time to time on auction sites at much lower cost than a new part

    #40599
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    Interesting, thanks.

    Good point about powder coating.

    #40594
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    Sounds like you’re making good progress.

    I’ve wondered about having mower decks galvanized before. Do you think it’s cost effective?

    #40430
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    Is it a Briggs and Stratton engine? If so there should be plenty of parts available. Is the whole recoil missing or do you need a spring? New cord?

    #39997
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    Rotella is a monograde, low detergent oil. Different grades were specified depending on ambient temperature, resulting in different oils being used in summer and winter. 10w30 is a multigrade oil that behaves like a 10 grade oil at low temperatures and a 30 grade oil at high temperatures

    For use in the UK, SAE10 sounds low – I believe SAE20 was recommended for the Lister JP2 in the UK, although SAE30 was also sometimes used.

    Any brand could be used – it doesn’t need to be Shell.

    #37707
    urbanalfa
    Participant

    In that case it sounds like you’ve already done what I would do.

    Have you spoken to Neil Jarrett?

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 29 total)