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January 10, 2017 at 7:37 pm #23943
stuart
ParticipantIt may be that the filler plug is also used as a drain plug (which would mean removing the tiller assy and turning it upside down for the oil to drain).The correct amount and specification of oil to replenish it would be given in the machines owners manual.
January 2, 2017 at 12:38 pm #23807stuart
ParticipantThe Villiers “Lightweight” carburettor needle in the middle of the slide is adjustable by the small brass screw on top of the slide.Screwing it in weakens the mixture and screwing it out richens the mixture.Adjust the needle so that the length exposed at the bottom of the slide is 2 3/8″ (two and three eighths of an inch).This is the standard factory setting.
January 1, 2017 at 2:32 pm #23799stuart
ParticipantRemove the crankcase drain screw (there are actually 2 of them but you only need remove one) to drain the excess fuel mixture in the crankcase.I remove the screw on the magneto side crankcase half and then tip the machine forwards.You may find it a bit fiddly to remove and refit these drain screws but it has to be done as the engine will never start because its flooded with fuel.
December 31, 2016 at 1:58 pm #23757stuart
ParticipantHas the bronze worm wheel stripped its teeth ???.If its been abused / poorly maintained then you may have to get inside the drive train to see whats going on.
December 10, 2016 at 10:18 pm #23527stuart
ParticipantHowards are one of my favourite machines.I have a Howard 400 rotavator and also an old Gem.My father still has the Howard 350 rotavator which he bought brand new in 1967.They don’t make em’ like they used too !!
December 10, 2016 at 5:22 pm #23522stuart
ParticipantThe company was founded by an Australian guy called Arthur Clifford Howard and was called “Rotary Hoes Ltd”.The company was then brought out many years later in approx 1985 by Dowdeswell Engineering of Warwickshire (Roger Dowdeswell designed and made ploughs and other farm implements).They are no longer in business.We used to buy Howard spare parts from a company called Standens Engineering.I think the guy to speak to regarding spare parts is Keith if he still works there.
December 5, 2016 at 9:55 pm #23432stuart
ParticipantThe chaincase and handles are Westwood as Wristpin has already said.The engine is a Briggs and Stratton.
December 2, 2016 at 2:03 pm #23366stuart
ParticipantThe bolts / threads will be UNC
November 24, 2016 at 7:46 pm #23207stuart
ParticipantI agree with wristpin.The B and S valve spring compressor is an excellent and easy tool to use but I have done many hundreds of valves over the years using said tool.I have also used it on other manufacturers valves springs that it was never designed to compress !
Most times there is no need to use the tool when removing the key hole retainers as a screwdriver placed underneath and then pushed up will usually free it.November 24, 2016 at 7:40 pm #23206stuart
ParticipantFirst set the points gap to 012″-015″.Then loosen the flywheel on the crankshaft.Position the piston at TDC (the mark on the very end of the crankshaft will be at 12 o clock when piston is at TDC).Turn the flywheel so that its mark / arrow is opposite the mark on the alloy backplate.When turning the flywheel and also when retightening it the crankshaft must NOT move.With this done the timing will be set at 5/32″ BTDC.
October 18, 2016 at 10:07 pm #22723stuart
ParticipantThe “correct” JAP engine for a Howard Gem should be a dry sump type engine (the fuel tank has two compartments…..one for petrol and one for lubricating oil).I have a Gem too but I cant remember what model the engine is called.It appears yours has had a conversion to a different engine.As you say its either a model 5 or 6.The magneto you require is a Wico and it should have an impulse coupling on it.
September 5, 2016 at 9:37 pm #22254stuart
ParticipantThe mark (line) on the end of the crankshaft on the above photo tells you when the engine is at TDC (Top Dead Centre).If you turn the crank so that the mark is at the 12 o clock position the engine will be at TDC.
Set the points to open at 5/32″ BTDC.Hope this helps.August 30, 2016 at 9:13 pm #22175stuart
ParticipantI do like that :):).Be a shame to use it.
July 26, 2016 at 5:56 pm #21630stuart
ParticipantThe carburettor used on this engine spec was the Villiers “Lightweight” and used a round “oil bath” type air cleaner.I have a complete Clifford MK1 rotavator with a seized engine which I have kept for spares for my other example.I would be happy to sell it though if you are interested ??.BTW the tyres are no good.
July 25, 2016 at 6:38 pm #21584stuart
ParticipantIt looks like the actual rotavator is a Cliffold MK1 from the 1950,s in which case the engine is a 147cc Villiers MK25C 2-stroke.
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