Another Allen Scythe

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  • #22244
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Following on from my Howard post, I am pleased to have acquired this Allen Scythe “T” or “TS”. On initial inspection it is complete and original and all moving parts are not sized, which is a relief. This “Allen” would be very useful at the allotment especially if I can get some of the tools that could be fitted to the scythe?

    During inspection I was informed that it did not generate a spark and that it may require a service, which I planned to do anyway.

    Having done my research before I took anything apart, it became clear that I should pay particular attention to the “timing” and take detailed notes as I removed items.

    Much has been said about the timing marks on Villiers engines and whilst I believe this to be a MK25C 2 stroke fitted on my “Allen” I cannot see any timing marks at all (the red marks are mine) apart from the mark on the end of the crank shaft.

    I noted that the beginning of the magnet in relation to the coil and made a mark on the flywheel next to the “tab” located on the base plate, before removing, which fortunately came off with relatively little trouble.

    Having got the coil base plate off I inspected the points and these seemed to be in good condition other than they seemed to be sticking, as in a sticky substance on the contacts, which was cleaned off and then filed down to make a flat surface.

    I then turned my attention to the “capacitor” (I’m a radio armature) and found that to be very leaky so I replaced it, so far so good.

    Looking at the coil, it seemed to appear “new” but as we all know, this doesn’t mean the coil is good. So, once again this was tested and proved to be in working order.

    Reassembling everything onto the base plate I installed it back onto the engine along with the fly wheel and using my strobe light first sought to determine if there was a decent spark, with a ground placed directly to the head, and to my relief, I had a very healthy spark, or should I say flash from the strobe light. However, the plug was not so healthy and with this in the head but not too tight only finger tight, the flash from the strobe light was very dim suggesting that there wasn’t a spark from the plug whilst in the cylinder.

    So, checking the plug out of the cylinder the same dim flash remained on the strobe and nothing from the plug! Substituting the plug with a new plug used on my Stuart Turner R3 I got a bright flash and a healthy spark so now I need to get a D16 plug or similar.

    Until I get a new plug I am still trying to get the correct timing alignment and considering that the only mark I can see is on the crank shaft, I set the timing as to what it was before I removed the fly wheel but noted that the spark was generated in the middle of the magnet and the points opened at that same time driven by the cam on the flywheel.

    This corresponds to TDC so the question now is, if I keep the fly wheel in position and rotate the crank shaft back until the crank shaft line, point to the tab on the back plate, would this then be 3/16 BTDC or in other words, the correct timing position?

    As of yet I haven’t taken the head off to measure 3/16 as I want to get the plug first and make sure that it is sparking within the cylinder before I move on to anything else, one step at a time!

    So, hopefully some of the members will be able to confirm the engine type, Villiers MK25C or something else, a T or TS and when was the likely manufactured date?

    More to come………………………….

    John

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    #22251
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    last photo

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    #22254
    stuart
    Participant

    The mark (line) on the end of the crankshaft on the above photo tells you when the engine is at TDC (Top Dead Centre).If you turn the crank so that the mark is at the 12 o clock position the engine will be at TDC.
    Set the points to open at 5/32″ BTDC.Hope this helps.

    #22282
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Thank you Stuart, your information was helpful indeed. It seems that 5/32″ BTDC corresponds to the tab on the back plate that isn’t marked so at least I will now be able to make the marks.

    Rigging up a temporary petrol tank, as the one that was installed on the machine had some sort of turpentine/tar substance within and is currently unusable, I was able to confirm that the timing was correct as the engine ran for a few seconds until the fuel was exhausted.

    I am hoping that I will be able to dissolve whatever is in the tank and reuse it but time will tell, I may be in need of a new fuel tank at some point if anyone has a spare?

    The next question for the members is, is there meant to be a fair amount of play in the wheels? The play that I have is similar to the wheel nuts not having been tightened up enough on the axial allowing the wheels to wobble about.
    This doesn’t seem correct to me but I am sure someone will advise further?

    Still, the dating question remains, if someone is able to help me with that I would be grateful.

    John

    #22289
    charlie
    Keymaster

    Regarding dating, have you tried contacting MERL at Reading University, I believe they have the Allen Scythe records

    #22350
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Good Morning All
    Thank you Charlie for the link, I have sent an email but as of yet, I have not heard back? Never the less, in the tractorbox archive I found this http://www.tractorbox.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4535, the second to last post by “Dieselhead” where he describes the operation of the clutch lever. As the clutch on my Allan engages when I drop the lever it would seem that my Allen is a “T”, however I hope that “MERL” will confirm this.

    I have made good progress with the Allen and it is now just a case of sorting out the cutter bar. It took me awhile to sort out the ignition since I was able to get it started but could not get it to restart unless I took the back plate off again.

    A post in another forum suggested the HT lead so I changed that but whilst doing this I had to unscrew the lead and be careful not to lose the TV suppressor element and then it dawned on me and I remembered something about the TV suppressors being the cause of many a spark problem! I removed the suppressor and replaced it with a spring, put everything back together and now the Allen starts first time every time.

    So now that I know the Allen is a usable machine I would like to try and get some attachments so that I can use it on my allotments, I would be interested to hear from anyone who may have a draw bar either for sale or who would take some photos and measurements so that I can construct a draw bar and then use a trailer on it.

    I would also like to hear from anyone who may have a plough that they want to sell although I suspect that as the ploughs are so rare that I would also have to construct one.

    Never the less any and all information is much appreciated. More photos to follow

    John

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