[sidevalve44]

What with my ATCO Villiers attending, there’ll be a nice blue haze over Lotmead Farm !

[sidevalve44]

It might be worth considering an Amal Motorcycle carburettor. I guess the ZZ is about 500/600cc which means the jetting for an old BSA M20/21 would be a good starting point. Spares are easy to get from Burlen Fuel Systems or Hitchcock’s Motorcycles.

[sidevalve44]

I may well try the bit of wood technique. The head is off at present but won’t take a few moments to put back on (that’s why I love side-valves!) Yes, you are correct the starter pulley should unscrew, it’s partially unscrewed at the moment but is a bit rusted up. The engine has had a hard life, it’s on +.040″ on the piston so, no more rebores possible ! Might just have to make do with a new set of rings (if available). The are very, very sturdy though as you say, very similar to the Kohler 4hp on my other Howard.

[sidevalve44]

I’ve removed the cowling and there are no tapped holes visible. However, The starter pulley is threaded onto the crank and that needs to be removed before I do anything. I believe, as s1g has said, that there are some holes behind the metal plate that is immediately behind the starter pulley but, I need to remove that first !
Holding it from the other end would surely risk damaging the crank by putting torsional stresses on it that it’s not designed for. Also, levering it off is a no go as there is a thin ally plate between the flywheel and the engine case that would not take the pressure.

However, I have a cunning plan and will update you when I’ve put it into operation !

[sidevalve44]

Did you see my posting on your other thread ? The pulleys are still available from Merrytiller.co.uk. Cost £23.00.

[sidevalve44]

I do have the pulleyt but, it’s hopelessly rusted onto the crank. However, they are available from Merrytiller.co.uk. Pt No. MT777/1 cost £23.00.

[sidevalve44]

Where do you live, are you anywhere near Swindon.

My old Wizard engine (minus carb,fuel tank & exhaust; borrowed for another machine) is lying idle in my shed. Is in working order (smokes a bit) but has a working coil c/w with magnetron unit. Would you be interested ?

[sidevalve44]

Hi, one of them is most likely the engine cut-out wire, the other one is the earth wire.

The Repairman’s Manual has the torque settings, although apart from the flywheel nut, I wouldn’t normally worry too much.

[sidevalve44]

If your existing coil is OK, then the magnetron kit (which comes with complete instructions). If the coil is kaput, then the new coil (591420). In either case you can disregard the points completely. However, given that the coil is only £13.00 dearer than the magnetron, I would be tempted to buy a new coil.

You will still need the engine cut-out wire though. (unless you enjoy pulling the pulling the plug cap off an engine whilst it’s running of course!!)

If you can get your hands on the B&S Repairman’s Manual for engines 1919 – 1981, it’s a worthwhile investment. Briggsbits sell it in paper copy or, you can usually pick up a CD Rom version on-line for a few pounds. That will (should) tell you everything you need to know.

[sidevalve44]

Have now decided to fit all four tines to each rotor. Couldn’t help thinking it didn’t look right with three.

It now looks nice and balanced and should give better results when working.

The 4HP engine is more than up to it.

[sidevalve44]

I’ve just checked my B&S repair manual and it states the flywheel tightening torque is 55ftlbs (75Nm)

[sidevalve44]

If you need to buy a new coil it will have the magnetron device included so, don’t waste your money on new points etc !

Last time I looked, a new coil was about £38.00.

[sidevalve44]

Hi Jim, I’ll pop over one evening and pick them up. My wife’s in hospital at the moment but, coming out tomorrow otherwise, I would have already been over.

Don’t worry, plenty of paint left !

[sidevalve44]

Fit the magnetron conversion. You don’t have to remove the flywheel then which if you don’t have the right tools is difficult. I fitted it to the Briggs on my Wizard and it’s quite easy to fit. Also a good idea to overhaul the carb and fit a new plug too. Contact Briggsbits for parts.

Recently, I fitted a 5.5HP Chinese built Honda copy which cost less than re-building the Briggs (£117) Only required a mod to the belt tensioner, otherwise it was straightforward.

Merry Tiller spares on line stock many of the other parts you may need.

So yes, the Wizard is worth restoring. I’ve had mine 4 years now and it’s given sterling service and was worth the expense.

[sidevalve44]

Here are the photos taken on a different camera on a lower resolution.

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