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July 20, 2014 at 4:10 pm #9397
sidevalve44
ParticipantHave just looked on the Frosts site and their basic POR15 looks good value @ £11.82 (don’t mind paying that) Cheaper than the Caswell I referred to above.
Might get some of that.
July 20, 2014 at 4:06 pm #9396sidevalve44
ParticipantThanks Charlie,
The inside looks fairly clear of loose rust. The main concern I have, is whether the petrol will react with the Kurust treated surface that the tank now has.
I suppose I could fit an inline fuel filter. Hitchcocks Motorcycles (A Royal Enfield specialist; I used to own one) sell two types (a cheap one and a dear one !). They also sell Caswell, an American made tank sealant.
I am tempted to fill the tank with petrol; check for leaks and see if the petrol reacts with the Kurust. I’m in no particular hurry and it might save me a few pounds. What do you think ?
What I have noticed is, these tank sealants come in a pack size suitable for tanks of 10 litres or more. Our little engines usually have a tank no more than 1 litre.
June 23, 2014 at 8:35 pm #8761sidevalve44
ParticipantProblem solved. I have just purchased a bag of 10 x 1/2″UNF LH thread half nuts from McGill Motorsport in Scotland. (apparently they are used on Rose Joints on racing cars)
Although only half nuts they are actually quite thick and two used together should work fine.
June 10, 2014 at 8:54 pm #8606sidevalve44
ParticipantThanks.
June 10, 2014 at 5:11 pm #8601sidevalve44
ParticipantDamn, I scrapped one of those a few years back !
Thanks for that, I will certainly bear it mind. Of course, the one thing I haven’t done yet is go to my local mower shop; they’ve probably got dozens of them on the shelf (not)!
June 9, 2014 at 5:45 pm #8589sidevalve44
ParticipantJune 8, 2014 at 7:56 pm #8580sidevalve44
ParticipantJust to follow up. The shaft is parallel and the impeller came off very easily using a 3 legged puller.
The actual impeller is inside a static housing which is part of the bearing housing attached to the engine’s crankcase.
I used the puller on this housing and it all came off together.May 18, 2014 at 8:51 pm #8172sidevalve44
ParticipantAssuming the coil is OK, don’t waste time replacing the points, fit a Magnetron breakerless kit Pt No. 394970 (£23.70 from Briggsbits). It’s easy to fit (even I managed it !), you can leave the points insitu (after snipping the wires) and never have to worry about them again.
May 6, 2014 at 9:00 pm #7947sidevalve44
ParticipantHi Alison,
Yours looks in slightly better condition than mine and has the original wooden roller at the front, whereas mine has the later plastic ones, probably retrofitted; as the wooden ones can split and were generally replaced with plastic ones from the mid 70s on.
As to value; I’m not sure we can put prices etc., on here but, you could get about 5.1/2 litres of petrol for what I paid ! Probably under its value but, a look on that certain auction site shows they don’t fetch that much.
Still a nice little mower that can go on giving sterling service for decades. 🙂
April 8, 2014 at 8:37 pm #7267sidevalve44
ParticipantThanks. I now have some useful info to work on. Someone on another forum has stated that Pegson Pumps with JAP or Villiers engines have RH thread so, mine should be no different.
I have a copy of the B&S parts list and unfortunately, it is generic and doesn’t show the crank end.
Must admit I haven’t made a serious attempt to remove the impeller. Thought it best to pick a few brains first before I mangled it !
Yes, there is thread in the two little holes. Probably BSF. Will get my friendly engineer to knock me one up.
I think the shroud will come away once the impeller is freed off.
Will update once I have made further progress.
April 7, 2014 at 5:45 pm #7194sidevalve44
ParticipantHa ha ! She came in to see what I was doing. Couldn’t resist putting the photo on !
April 6, 2014 at 9:24 pm #7162sidevalve44
ParticipantThanks for the info guys. Unfortunately can’t soak in diesel as the fluid would run out past the impeller vanes. Have sprayed liberally with GT85, and will use my garden flame thrower to try heating it up.
However, does anyone know if it is LH or RH thread ? Logic would suggest LH but, the Flywheel nut on the other side is LH thread, which is odd considering the crank rotation is clockwise.
Must find out somehow or other, before I end up mangling the threads by turning it the wrong way !!March 30, 2014 at 9:02 pm #7065sidevalve44
ParticipantThat was a good find. Looks like all it needs is a bit of a clean up, some new wooden handle-grips and no doubt, a drop of oil on the axle !
What better way to get your Granddaughter to help in the garden.
March 23, 2014 at 7:06 pm #6832sidevalve44
ParticipantThanks for the info. Yes, I fitted one of those magnetron kits to a 1976 3Hp on a Wizard Rotavator. Starts easily and no worries about points wearing out.
Have been in touch with Graham at Briggsbits who has advised which one to go for.March 23, 2014 at 2:12 pm #6813sidevalve44
ParticipantThanks for the info guys. I think I may well go down the easy route and buy a new breaker-less ign coil, it as, after all over 50 years old !
Glad to see all that SPAM has been removed.
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